Fix My ACD Problem and I will pay you!
Oct 4, 2011, 05:07 PM
#181
05 Evo here, 52,400 miles. Car has barely been driven, averaging 8k a year over since I drove it off the lot. Has seen snow driving only sparingly.
Had all my ACD lights come on during the early part of 2011. Had an older mini battery in the car and wouldn't hold a charge during cold winter starts - ended up having to jump start the car several times during this past winter and it may be a coincidence but noticed all the lights come on during one of the jump starts and never go away.
Ended up replacing the battery this summer, which didn't do anything, and all my fuses seem to be in-tact. All 3 lights come on within 100 ft of driving.
Wrote a letter to Mitsubishi complaining about them not covering the ACD pump under warranty (my bumper-to-bumper has expired due to the car being nearly 7 years old but powertrain is still in-tact), and was told that they can't do anything since the ACD pump is not considered a drivetrain component. What a pile of BULL****. I'm so pissed at these damn lights. Almost ready to go trade in for a 335i. This car has been babied and pampered way too much for an ACD pump to go out at 52K miles!!!
Had all my ACD lights come on during the early part of 2011. Had an older mini battery in the car and wouldn't hold a charge during cold winter starts - ended up having to jump start the car several times during this past winter and it may be a coincidence but noticed all the lights come on during one of the jump starts and never go away.
Ended up replacing the battery this summer, which didn't do anything, and all my fuses seem to be in-tact. All 3 lights come on within 100 ft of driving.
Wrote a letter to Mitsubishi complaining about them not covering the ACD pump under warranty (my bumper-to-bumper has expired due to the car being nearly 7 years old but powertrain is still in-tact), and was told that they can't do anything since the ACD pump is not considered a drivetrain component. What a pile of BULL****. I'm so pissed at these damn lights. Almost ready to go trade in for a 335i. This car has been babied and pampered way too much for an ACD pump to go out at 52K miles!!!
Oct 4, 2011, 06:01 PM
#182
05 Evo here, 52,400 miles. Car has barely been driven, averaging 8k a year over since I drove it off the lot. Has seen snow driving only sparingly.
Had all my ACD lights come on during the early part of 2011. Had an older mini battery in the car and wouldn't hold a charge during cold winter starts - ended up having to jump start the car several times during this past winter and it may be a coincidence but noticed all the lights come on during one of the jump starts and never go away.
Ended up replacing the battery this summer, which didn't do anything, and all my fuses seem to be in-tact. All 3 lights come on within 100 ft of driving.
Wrote a letter to Mitsubishi complaining about them not covering the ACD pump under warranty (my bumper-to-bumper has expired due to the car being nearly 7 years old but powertrain is still in-tact), and was told that they can't do anything since the ACD pump is not considered a drivetrain component. What a pile of BULL****. I'm so pissed at these damn lights. Almost ready to go trade in for a 335i. This car has been babied and pampered way too much for an ACD pump to go out at 52K miles!!!
Had all my ACD lights come on during the early part of 2011. Had an older mini battery in the car and wouldn't hold a charge during cold winter starts - ended up having to jump start the car several times during this past winter and it may be a coincidence but noticed all the lights come on during one of the jump starts and never go away.
Ended up replacing the battery this summer, which didn't do anything, and all my fuses seem to be in-tact. All 3 lights come on within 100 ft of driving.
Wrote a letter to Mitsubishi complaining about them not covering the ACD pump under warranty (my bumper-to-bumper has expired due to the car being nearly 7 years old but powertrain is still in-tact), and was told that they can't do anything since the ACD pump is not considered a drivetrain component. What a pile of BULL****. I'm so pissed at these damn lights. Almost ready to go trade in for a 335i. This car has been babied and pampered way too much for an ACD pump to go out at 52K miles!!!
I totally understand your frustration though. A vital component like that should not go bad so easily. Mitsubishi sucks.
Oct 4, 2011, 08:52 PM
#183
I understand that everyone here with failed or failing pumps are frustrated but it really isn't Mitsubishi's fault. Like most other automobile manufactures they're just doing what they can given market demands and changing trends. If it wasn't for people complaining about having more trunk space or more quiet interior the pump would probably be mounted inside the car and this problem would probably be non-existent.
Consider this as an inconvenience not a piece of **** because at one point or another the system has worked and worked well. Just because it didn't the life styles of some doesn't mean that it's worth-less/junk. To others this system is pure gold and I would do anything to get it back.
We just hit some ****ty luck but that's life so just deal with it.
Oct 5, 2011, 11:57 AM
#184
LOL. Not a chance. The pump isn't faulty its just susceptible to corrosion which is part of life like every other component on the car. There is no way Mitsubishi would do anything for us because it was our decision to drive the car and to expose it to the corrosive elements. Plus, most people would consider a replacement ACD pump as chump change given that they use the car for what its meant for and value the system in the car. Not just use it on the streets to get it from point A to point B or stretch their budgets just to accommodate the monthly payments into their thin budgets.
I understand that everyone here with failed or failing pumps are frustrated but it really isn't Mitsubishi's fault. Like most other automobile manufactures they're just doing what they can given market demands and changing trends. If it wasn't for people complaining about having more trunk space or more quiet interior the pump would probably be mounted inside the car and this problem would probably be non-existent.
Consider this as an inconvenience not a piece of **** because at one point or another the system has worked and worked well. Just because it didn't the life styles of some doesn't mean that it's worth-less/junk. To others this system is pure gold and I would do anything to get it back.
We just hit some ****ty luck but that's life so just deal with it.
I understand that everyone here with failed or failing pumps are frustrated but it really isn't Mitsubishi's fault. Like most other automobile manufactures they're just doing what they can given market demands and changing trends. If it wasn't for people complaining about having more trunk space or more quiet interior the pump would probably be mounted inside the car and this problem would probably be non-existent.
Consider this as an inconvenience not a piece of **** because at one point or another the system has worked and worked well. Just because it didn't the life styles of some doesn't mean that it's worth-less/junk. To others this system is pure gold and I would do anything to get it back.
We just hit some ****ty luck but that's life so just deal with it.
Oct 5, 2011, 04:30 PM
#185
Well I contend that it's faulty BECAUSE it's so susceptible to corrosion. This has been an ongoing problem on Evo's since ACD/AYC. How would you feel if it were another component essential to the cars regular operation? Something like a power steering pump? Or fuel pump? Or ABS unit? Would it be "just an inconvenience" if those items failed with 30-50k miles on the car? I sure wouldn't take it that way. Fact is, the ball was dropped on the original design and has yet to be improved upon as failures are still all too common. Not designing something to last the life of the car is a fault of the design, not the end user.
I'm not saying this right but it certainly isn't wrong either from a manufacture's stand point. They know that the majority of people whom purchase this car and drive it don't usually stick too long with it or care for it the way some of us do but that's simply the nature of the market. We as a community represent only a tiny fraction of that market, therefore making the part better by spending more money on it wouldn't be worth it in the end because the majority won't be willing to pay for the engineering/manufacturing.
Oct 5, 2011, 06:30 PM
#186
To be honest how many Evo's do you know that still have the original owner driving or even owning the car? The truth of the matter is, the car was designed to last as long as the warranty and maybe a little more; not just the Evo but with almost every car on the market. Cars aren't cheap. An extra $20-$40 to make the part more reliable may sound like nothing but when you're mass producing 25,000 units plus spares parts every year from 2005 to 2006 that number becomes something and if it doesn't have to last then it just doesn't.
I'm not saying this right but it certainly isn't wrong either from a manufacture's stand point. They know that the majority of people whom purchase this car and drive it don't usually stick too long with it or care for it the way some of us do but that's simply the nature of the market. We as a community represent only a tiny fraction of that market, therefore making the part better by spending more money on it wouldn't be worth it in the end because the majority won't be willing to pay for the engineering/manufacturing.
I'm not saying this right but it certainly isn't wrong either from a manufacture's stand point. They know that the majority of people whom purchase this car and drive it don't usually stick too long with it or care for it the way some of us do but that's simply the nature of the market. We as a community represent only a tiny fraction of that market, therefore making the part better by spending more money on it wouldn't be worth it in the end because the majority won't be willing to pay for the engineering/manufacturing.
Also, last time I checked, the production volumes are much less than 25k, more like 10k tops for 08, 10, and 11. Over the years they have made several updates for each generation, improving parts, making things stronger. These pumps were overlooked. The cars over all are very reliable if they aren't abused. You can find members on here with over 100k miles on their IX's. One dude had 175k miles on his when he sold it. They are good cars, I'm not arguing that. What I'm arguing is you defending them on designing a **** part for a great car. The ACD pump is a weak link. End of story. It needs redesigned to be able to last longer. It wouldn't take much either, it's not that complicated of a mechanism. The housing needs to be shielded in some way, or manufactured out of something that doesn't corrode to the point of not working in only a couple years.
Oct 5, 2011, 07:20 PM
#187
I never said they were right I myself was furious when I discovered the true failure of my pump especially when i was only 4,000 miles over the warranty mileage limit. It's all good though, **** happens. It's just a bit unfair to say Mitsubishi sucks just because one part failed and it wasn't covered under the warranty.
I'm just stating the facts; chill pill dude...
The Evo VIII, IX and X were FIA homologated for Group N rally. There's a requirement that 25,000 units minimum per model must be sold as stated in the official document that's posted on Mitsubishi Motor's webpage before it can be approved.
Each component has its own designated life span and apparently the ACD pump wasn't designed to last long in the elements. Giving the entire car an expected life span was too general and dramatic, my bad. Regardless the ACD pump was designed in rally racing for rally racing and overall performance gains. It wouldn't even be implemented if it had to last the life-time of the car. It most certainly wasn't implemented for safety either. The system is basically considered as an accessory to the car. Without the ACD you can still drive the car it's not a necessity from a design/engineering standpoint because the car still functions as a car.
I'm just stating the facts; chill pill dude...
The Evo VIII, IX and X were FIA homologated for Group N rally. There's a requirement that 25,000 units minimum per model must be sold as stated in the official document that's posted on Mitsubishi Motor's webpage before it can be approved. Each component has its own designated life span and apparently the ACD pump wasn't designed to last long in the elements. Giving the entire car an expected life span was too general and dramatic, my bad. Regardless the ACD pump was designed in rally racing for rally racing and overall performance gains. It wouldn't even be implemented if it had to last the life-time of the car. It most certainly wasn't implemented for safety either. The system is basically considered as an accessory to the car. Without the ACD you can still drive the car it's not a necessity from a design/engineering standpoint because the car still functions as a car.
I'm sorry, but any car that is only designed to last a mere 36k miles is a world class turd. I'm not at all sure where you are coming from on this. You honestly think they only had a design life criteria of 3 years? 5 for the drive train? That is absurd. No car manufacture in the last 3 decades would have such a paltry design life. Not even Yugo. More importantly, this part DOES have to last. The car essentially looses AWD without it! That is a pretty friggin important part IMO. Just as important as the ones I mentioned in my previous post.
Also, last time I checked, the production volumes are much less than 25k, more like 10k tops for 08, 10, and 11. Over the years they have made several updates for each generation, improving parts, making things stronger. These pumps were overlooked. The cars over all are very reliable if they aren't abused. You can find members on here with over 100k miles on their IX's. One dude had 175k miles on his when he sold it. They are good cars, I'm not arguing that. What I'm arguing is you defending them on designing a **** part for a great car. The ACD pump is a weak link. End of story. It needs redesigned to be able to last longer. It wouldn't take much either, it's not that complicated of a mechanism. The housing needs to be shielded in some way, or manufactured out of something that doesn't corrode to the point of not working in only a couple years.
Also, last time I checked, the production volumes are much less than 25k, more like 10k tops for 08, 10, and 11. Over the years they have made several updates for each generation, improving parts, making things stronger. These pumps were overlooked. The cars over all are very reliable if they aren't abused. You can find members on here with over 100k miles on their IX's. One dude had 175k miles on his when he sold it. They are good cars, I'm not arguing that. What I'm arguing is you defending them on designing a **** part for a great car. The ACD pump is a weak link. End of story. It needs redesigned to be able to last longer. It wouldn't take much either, it's not that complicated of a mechanism. The housing needs to be shielded in some way, or manufactured out of something that doesn't corrode to the point of not working in only a couple years.
Nov 20, 2011, 02:44 PM
#188
Just wanted to update this thread with what I've done to the car to fix my ACD.
As a refresher: I pulled my old pump apart during the summer to check for corrosion/other signs that would indicate why my pump wasn't working properly. After finding nothing obvious I put it back together and it suddenly started working again. After a track day it died again, this time for good.
Yesterday I swapped my old pump with a new pump (22k miles on the new pump). We then bled the ACD system fully. I no longer have the 3 ACD lights and everything seems to be working perfectly.
One more thing. I went lapping last weekend (with my non-functioning ACD pump) and noticed little to no difference in the behavior of the car. I've had the electrical connector unplugged for the last 2 months or so waiting to have the time to swap the pump. Also, regarding the above discussion about whether or not the car becomes FWD with a non-functioning ACD pump, watch at 3:10 in the below video as I exit the corner and get oversteer as the turbo kicks in (3rd gear). I've never seen a FWD car get power oversteer like that, so I think it's pretty clear that the car stays AWD even if the pump isn't functioning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ujp7TAR_LlE
As a refresher: I pulled my old pump apart during the summer to check for corrosion/other signs that would indicate why my pump wasn't working properly. After finding nothing obvious I put it back together and it suddenly started working again. After a track day it died again, this time for good.
Yesterday I swapped my old pump with a new pump (22k miles on the new pump). We then bled the ACD system fully. I no longer have the 3 ACD lights and everything seems to be working perfectly.
One more thing. I went lapping last weekend (with my non-functioning ACD pump) and noticed little to no difference in the behavior of the car. I've had the electrical connector unplugged for the last 2 months or so waiting to have the time to swap the pump. Also, regarding the above discussion about whether or not the car becomes FWD with a non-functioning ACD pump, watch at 3:10 in the below video as I exit the corner and get oversteer as the turbo kicks in (3rd gear). I've never seen a FWD car get power oversteer like that, so I think it's pretty clear that the car stays AWD even if the pump isn't functioning.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ujp7TAR_LlE
Nov 30, 2011, 09:54 PM
#189
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OK, another ACD question.
So I reinstalled my t case after having shep over haul it. I go to bleed the ACD, by pressing the pedal to the floor and turning the key, and I can hear the relays clicking but the pump is not cycling like it should?
I can hit the ACD button on the dash and it goes through each light fine, but once again I don't hear the pump kick on at all. I also do not have all 3 lights on indicating a fault code.
The ACD worked just fine before I pulled the t case and I find it hard to believe that it some how went bad with the car sitting on jack stands.
I did read on another forum that air can get in the pump by the pressure switch and cause this problem, the post went on to say that you could open the pressure switch up (not really sure how to do this) and it would allow the air to escape? I am just looking for a second opinion... And I REALLY want to drive my dang car, lol.
Thanks!
So I reinstalled my t case after having shep over haul it. I go to bleed the ACD, by pressing the pedal to the floor and turning the key, and I can hear the relays clicking but the pump is not cycling like it should?
I can hit the ACD button on the dash and it goes through each light fine, but once again I don't hear the pump kick on at all. I also do not have all 3 lights on indicating a fault code.
The ACD worked just fine before I pulled the t case and I find it hard to believe that it some how went bad with the car sitting on jack stands.
I did read on another forum that air can get in the pump by the pressure switch and cause this problem, the post went on to say that you could open the pressure switch up (not really sure how to do this) and it would allow the air to escape? I am just looking for a second opinion... And I REALLY want to drive my dang car, lol.
Thanks!
Dec 1, 2011, 09:45 AM
#191
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No lights, and I started the car and let it idle (it's on jack stands) for awhile and everything. Hit the button multiple times, turned it off and back on... Nothing. I have read somewhere about turning the wheel back and forth, haven't tried that yet.
Dec 1, 2011, 05:39 PM
#193
OK, another ACD question.
So I reinstalled my t case after having shep over haul it. I go to bleed the ACD, by pressing the pedal to the floor and turning the key, and I can hear the relays clicking but the pump is not cycling like it should?
I can hit the ACD button on the dash and it goes through each light fine, but once again I don't hear the pump kick on at all. I also do not have all 3 lights on indicating a fault code.
The ACD worked just fine before I pulled the t case and I find it hard to believe that it some how went bad with the car sitting on jack stands.
I did read on another forum that air can get in the pump by the pressure switch and cause this problem, the post went on to say that you could open the pressure switch up (not really sure how to do this) and it would allow the air to escape? I am just looking for a second opinion... And I REALLY want to drive my dang car, lol.
Thanks!
So I reinstalled my t case after having shep over haul it. I go to bleed the ACD, by pressing the pedal to the floor and turning the key, and I can hear the relays clicking but the pump is not cycling like it should?
I can hit the ACD button on the dash and it goes through each light fine, but once again I don't hear the pump kick on at all. I also do not have all 3 lights on indicating a fault code.
The ACD worked just fine before I pulled the t case and I find it hard to believe that it some how went bad with the car sitting on jack stands.
I did read on another forum that air can get in the pump by the pressure switch and cause this problem, the post went on to say that you could open the pressure switch up (not really sure how to do this) and it would allow the air to escape? I am just looking for a second opinion... And I REALLY want to drive my dang car, lol.
Thanks!
I just replaced my ACD pump because I also had the 3 lights come on recently. Bought the car brand new and it only has 43k miles!!! When I bleed the system I held the acceleration pedal down and then turned the key to on position and after about 3-4 seconds later the pump primes. Just wanting to mention that in case you weren't holding it down long enough.
Also if it starts to activate, dont expect the pump to run for a long time during bleeding. It only activates for a short time and shuts off. So prime, bleed, prime, bleed.... is what you do.
Dec 1, 2011, 05:54 PM
#194
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I just had to turn the steering wheel a few times and than it kicked on with the pedal down. I guess something to do with the steering angle sensor.
Thanks for the input everyone!
Thanks for the input everyone!
Jan 17, 2012, 09:49 PM
#195
I took my pump apart, or attempted to take it apart. The two through bolts on the back of the can of the electric motor that hold the pump together were completely seized basically the steel bolts corroded to the aluminum housing. Once I got the heads of the bolts ground off and the thing separated I found that the armature was pretty much locked up and the bearing is shot between wear the shaft splits, but im gonna attempt to lube everything up and drill down the through bolts and tap a bit bigger thread in the mill and see if I can bandaid it back together...... Terrible design. Aluminum and steel don't react well together especially when they are getting blasted with every road element imaginable.