Fix My ACD Problem and I will pay you!
Jul 29, 2011, 05:52 PM
#107
EDIT: We tried to get the pump off, but we're having a hell of a time getting the hardline off that goes to the diff - how did you guys get it off?
Last edited by Raptord; Jul 29, 2011 at 07:27 PM.
Jul 29, 2011, 07:43 PM
#108
Ok so I took my pump apart and what I found is horrifying, I'm not sure if I'm mad at Mitsubishi's engineers or the engineers of the company which Mitsubishi contracted to produce this piece. As you can see in the pictures below the corrosion problem is far worse than what I have imagined. My electric motor was completely seized all because of that brown thing in center of the inner housing. Anyone care to guess what it is?
...Well, it's the $20 ball bearing which completely rusted and seized... A part that could have been better protected with better chamfer designs implemented into the housing mate sections to keep moisture out. BTW the O-ring that was there did sh*t to keep moisture out.
If anyone is getting a code 82 and not hearing anything from their pump this is most likely it. Thanks Mitsubishi but I will not spend $2100 on a new pump that will have the same issue if not relocated to trunk. Yes, inside the trunk or cabin area is the only place for the pump to reside if you wish to keep it operational. Hopefully I can CAD up something and talk it over with a machinist I know of and see what it would take to make a new piece with better designed sealing and maybe a bearing that is also less corrosive.
Back side of motor cover:
The motor itself:
You can see here that the shaft has a bit of rust which was exposed inside the space of the second housing.
Back side of the motor coil cover:
The $20 bearing that seized:
Close up:
That calcium/mineral build up was very thick, mind you I drove my car none stop from 2006 up until 3 weeks ago in 2011. 4 east coast winters and countless number of rain storms, and car washes. These seals blow...
...Well, it's the $20 ball bearing which completely rusted and seized... A part that could have been better protected with better chamfer designs implemented into the housing mate sections to keep moisture out. BTW the O-ring that was there did sh*t to keep moisture out.
If anyone is getting a code 82 and not hearing anything from their pump this is most likely it. Thanks Mitsubishi but I will not spend $2100 on a new pump that will have the same issue if not relocated to trunk. Yes, inside the trunk or cabin area is the only place for the pump to reside if you wish to keep it operational. Hopefully I can CAD up something and talk it over with a machinist I know of and see what it would take to make a new piece with better designed sealing and maybe a bearing that is also less corrosive.
Back side of motor cover:
The motor itself:
You can see here that the shaft has a bit of rust which was exposed inside the space of the second housing.
Back side of the motor coil cover:
The $20 bearing that seized:
Close up:
That calcium/mineral build up was very thick, mind you I drove my car none stop from 2006 up until 3 weeks ago in 2011. 4 east coast winters and countless number of rain storms, and car washes. These seals blow...
Last edited by timmiii; Jul 29, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
Jul 29, 2011, 08:09 PM
#112
If you can't separate it and you don't have access to a mill or lathe then you're pretty much paying for a new OEM pump. I was able to get the electric coil motor turning as well as the pump but the bearing was stopping it, I stopped right away so I wouldn't wear out the shaft on the electric coil pack. I just used a 14mm wrench and hammer. lol But you might want to try some penetrating fluid and a 14mm crows foot wrench if you're having issues getting it off with a regular 14mm.
Jul 29, 2011, 09:28 PM
#113
From the looks of it the only way to really clean it out is to mill the mineral build up and the bearing out. That's IF you can separate it from the main body of the pump itself where the fluid channels. Mine is on there good, seems like the corrosion bonded the metal gasket in between the main pump casing and the channel casing. Please excuse my terms if they aren't correct but this is the best I can come up with so far since there is no other information regarding the USDM ACD pumps.
If you can't separate it and you don't have access to a mill or lathe then you're pretty much paying for a new OEM pump. I was able to get the electric coil motor turning as well as the pump but the bearing was stopping it, I stopped right away so I wouldn't wear out the shaft on the electric coil pack. I just used a 14mm wrench and hammer. lol But you might want to try some penetrating fluid and a 14mm crows foot wrench if you're having issues getting it off with a regular 14mm.
If you can't separate it and you don't have access to a mill or lathe then you're pretty much paying for a new OEM pump. I was able to get the electric coil motor turning as well as the pump but the bearing was stopping it, I stopped right away so I wouldn't wear out the shaft on the electric coil pack. I just used a 14mm wrench and hammer. lol But you might want to try some penetrating fluid and a 14mm crows foot wrench if you're having issues getting it off with a regular 14mm.
Jul 29, 2011, 11:16 PM
#114
Do you hear the pump working at all? If you don't its most likely sized and the same thing has happened. Regardless of winter or not as long as the car or pump is exposed to moisture it will happen. I only emphasized winter because that's a mix of salt and moisture which is just a horrible combo.
Jul 30, 2011, 02:47 AM
#115
From the looks of it the only way to really clean it out is to mill the mineral build up and the bearing out. That's IF you can separate it from the main body of the pump itself where the fluid channels. Mine is on there good, seems like the corrosion bonded the metal gasket in between the main pump casing and the channel casing. Please excuse my terms if they aren't correct but this is the best I can come up with so far since there is no other information regarding the USDM ACD pumps.
mine came off relatively easy
see where you can go from there
btw, don't damage or clean the pressure sensor, it's sensitive and you don't want to mess it up.
Jul 30, 2011, 02:55 AM
#116
i see you have torn one rubber round seal during the disassembly, you might need a new one.
not sure of the proper size/part number however..
also, an electric motor really never goes bad, so no need to open it up.
you didn't get it to the oil pump itself and the valve section, that's what needs to be cleaned first...
not sure of the proper size/part number however..
also, an electric motor really never goes bad, so no need to open it up.
you didn't get it to the oil pump itself and the valve section, that's what needs to be cleaned first...
Jul 30, 2011, 04:48 AM
#117
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/n...D/IMAG0036.jpg
that's a shaft of oil pump pictured there, you need to get there if you want to clean your acd pump properly. yes you can open it.
that's a shaft of oil pump pictured there, you need to get there if you want to clean your acd pump properly. yes you can open it.
Jul 30, 2011, 06:17 AM
#119
http://i322.photobucket.com/albums/n...D/IMAG0036.jpg
that's a shaft of oil pump pictured there, you need to get there if you want to clean your acd pump properly. yes you can open it.
that's a shaft of oil pump pictured there, you need to get there if you want to clean your acd pump properly. yes you can open it.
Also the body isn't separating due to corrosion on the bolts that hold the body in place and the metal gasket between the pump housing and fluid channel housing. I'll have to get a completely different O-ring or use a different method of sealant all together.
I'm not rebuilding the electric motor itself, but the shaft and magnets need clean up for sure.
Last edited by timmiii; Jul 30, 2011 at 06:20 AM.
Jul 30, 2011, 07:55 AM
#120
Side question for you guys; Say I take the pump apart and see that it's as bad as timmii's and I need a new one, can I drive the car without the pump installed until I receive my new one to put in? The way I see it, it's not working either way since it's seized up, so it shouldn't be too bad?