Those w/ Autometer boost gauge...pls help w/ install
Dec 16, 2003, 09:30 PM
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Those w/ Autometer boost gauge...pls help w/ install
I'm about to install my Autometer Z Series boost gauge later on this week. I am mounting the gauge on my steering column w/ the Autometer gauge pod. I am planning to route the boost line from the gauge through the firewall hole on the passenger seat side to the engine. Here are my questions:
1. The directions specified a 1/8 " connector and t-fitting...where can I buy these bad boys?
2. Which boost line under the hood should I tap? I've read several options on the board and just want to hear from people with Autometer boost gauges.
3. So after I locate the boost line under the hood, I cut the factory boost hose and re-combine the separated hoses with the t-fitting and connect the gauge hose to it...is that the right concept? If so, will we experience some pressure/boost loss due to the additional t-fitting across the boost hose? PICS PLEASE!!
4. I know there is an empty fuse behind the coin box on the driver's side. How exactly (physically) do I connect a positive line from the gauge to a fuse? What material should I buy?
5. Is the boost line that came with the gauge long enough? Should I consider buying a longer one before I start my install (keeping in mind that my gauge is going to be on my steering column and routed through the firewall on the passenger side)?
Here are some pics request for those of you with Autometer boost gauges that will greatly help me with my install as well as others in the future:
1. A pic of the BACKSIDE of the boost gauge to see how you make the install look clean (how you cover up the lines).
2. A close pic and possible diagrams of how you used the t fitting to connect the gauge to the factory boost line.
Sorry for such a long and newbie sounding post...but a man's gotta learn from somewhere right?
Thanks and God bless!
1. The directions specified a 1/8 " connector and t-fitting...where can I buy these bad boys?
2. Which boost line under the hood should I tap? I've read several options on the board and just want to hear from people with Autometer boost gauges.
3. So after I locate the boost line under the hood, I cut the factory boost hose and re-combine the separated hoses with the t-fitting and connect the gauge hose to it...is that the right concept? If so, will we experience some pressure/boost loss due to the additional t-fitting across the boost hose? PICS PLEASE!!
4. I know there is an empty fuse behind the coin box on the driver's side. How exactly (physically) do I connect a positive line from the gauge to a fuse? What material should I buy?
5. Is the boost line that came with the gauge long enough? Should I consider buying a longer one before I start my install (keeping in mind that my gauge is going to be on my steering column and routed through the firewall on the passenger side)?
Here are some pics request for those of you with Autometer boost gauges that will greatly help me with my install as well as others in the future:
1. A pic of the BACKSIDE of the boost gauge to see how you make the install look clean (how you cover up the lines).
2. A close pic and possible diagrams of how you used the t fitting to connect the gauge to the factory boost line.
Sorry for such a long and newbie sounding post...but a man's gotta learn from somewhere right?
Thanks and God bless!
Dec 16, 2003, 09:35 PM
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1: I had an extra vacuum rated t-fitting in my garage from, I think, my old blowoff valve. Pep boys carries them, autozone, etc.
2: I tapped my BOV line going to the intake manifold. No boost leak with a nice secure fit. Reads boost perfectly.
3: Yes, that is correct. No you shouldn't lose any pressure unless there is a leak.
4: I used a mini fuse tap from Pepboys to tap into one of the fuses (don't remember which for sure, but as long as it has power in accessory then it's fine. radio, for example) and connected it through that.
5: You'll need additional tubing. While you're at Pepboys, buy the smallest vacuum hosing they have there. Cut the nylon tubing to a point where it won't kink and attach the tubing, viola. I don't remember the size of the tubing, but 7-8 feet is efficient.
I will take pictures tomorrow, if still needed.
2: I tapped my BOV line going to the intake manifold. No boost leak with a nice secure fit. Reads boost perfectly.
3: Yes, that is correct. No you shouldn't lose any pressure unless there is a leak.
4: I used a mini fuse tap from Pepboys to tap into one of the fuses (don't remember which for sure, but as long as it has power in accessory then it's fine. radio, for example) and connected it through that.
5: You'll need additional tubing. While you're at Pepboys, buy the smallest vacuum hosing they have there. Cut the nylon tubing to a point where it won't kink and attach the tubing, viola. I don't remember the size of the tubing, but 7-8 feet is efficient.
I will take pictures tomorrow, if still needed.
Dec 16, 2003, 09:43 PM
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1. I got mine from O'Reileys
2. The one that is shown in this thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=36529
3. With the T-fitting in there were very sharp bends in the line in my car, so I bought some extra hose, cut it slightly longer than stock, and replaced the stock hose with that. With regards to the T-fitting: You'll need a good few feet of line to get into your car going through the passenger side, but my car reads just under 19 PSI at WOT so I guess it's OK
.
4. I tapped into the cigar lighter wires for my install, so I can't say for sure. Radio Shack sell fuse adapter type things that let you do this. If you tell them what you need they should be able to help you out.
5. Dunno, bought mine used so I had to buy the line myself.
As for pics: Look in the thread I listed above for pics of the T-fitting. I just put some of that black helical type plastic covering over my wires. Looks good enough.
2. The one that is shown in this thread: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...threadid=36529
3. With the T-fitting in there were very sharp bends in the line in my car, so I bought some extra hose, cut it slightly longer than stock, and replaced the stock hose with that. With regards to the T-fitting: You'll need a good few feet of line to get into your car going through the passenger side, but my car reads just under 19 PSI at WOT so I guess it's OK
.4. I tapped into the cigar lighter wires for my install, so I can't say for sure. Radio Shack sell fuse adapter type things that let you do this. If you tell them what you need they should be able to help you out.
5. Dunno, bought mine used so I had to buy the line myself.
As for pics: Look in the thread I listed above for pics of the T-fitting. I just put some of that black helical type plastic covering over my wires. Looks good enough.
Dec 16, 2003, 10:01 PM
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Originally posted by Deceit
1: I had an extra vacuum rated t-fitting in my garage from, I think, my old blowoff valve. Pep boys carries them, autozone, etc.
2: I tapped my BOV line going to the intake manifold. No boost leak with a nice secure fit. Reads boost perfectly.
3: Yes, that is correct. No you shouldn't lose any pressure unless there is a leak.
4: I used a mini fuse tap from Pepboys to tap into one of the fuses (don't remember which for sure, but as long as it has power in accessory then it's fine. radio, for example) and connected it through that.
5: You'll need additional tubing. While you're at Pepboys, buy the smallest vacuum hosing they have there. Cut the nylon tubing to a point where it won't kink and attach the tubing, viola. I don't remember the size of the tubing, but 7-8 feet is efficient.
I will take pictures tomorrow, if still needed.
1: I had an extra vacuum rated t-fitting in my garage from, I think, my old blowoff valve. Pep boys carries them, autozone, etc.
2: I tapped my BOV line going to the intake manifold. No boost leak with a nice secure fit. Reads boost perfectly.
3: Yes, that is correct. No you shouldn't lose any pressure unless there is a leak.
4: I used a mini fuse tap from Pepboys to tap into one of the fuses (don't remember which for sure, but as long as it has power in accessory then it's fine. radio, for example) and connected it through that.
5: You'll need additional tubing. While you're at Pepboys, buy the smallest vacuum hosing they have there. Cut the nylon tubing to a point where it won't kink and attach the tubing, viola. I don't remember the size of the tubing, but 7-8 feet is efficient.
I will take pictures tomorrow, if still needed.
Dec 18, 2003, 08:20 AM
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I ended up making a big clunky T fitting from some brass bits I got at Home Depot. It's really big and obtrusive and I wouldn't recommend doing this. However it did let me use the thin Autometer line and their brass ferrule.
To get the brass T to fit, I had to tap the line to the wastegate at the front of the engine. It's a snug fit in there, but it does barely fit without kinks. Then I just drilled a small hole through the firewall on the drivers side to feed the line through. Luckily the Autometer line is thin, so I only had to make a really small hole.
To get the brass T to fit, I had to tap the line to the wastegate at the front of the engine. It's a snug fit in there, but it does barely fit without kinks. Then I just drilled a small hole through the firewall on the drivers side to feed the line through. Luckily the Autometer line is thin, so I only had to make a really small hole.
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Dec 18, 2003, 08:50 AM
#9
I did the EXACT same thing.. less prone to leaking if you use the correct fittings for it..
I tapped off the BOV line on the manifold, put in a T-Fitting that I had laying around (Bought from pep boys an assortment kit that I use periodically)
Ran the nylon line through the footwell wiring harness grommet on the passenger side (Used a coat hanger after poking a hole through the rubber (Its double walled) and had the line taped to the coat hanger to get it through.
One bit of advice about the lighting, If you want it on all the time as at a constant light level then you can wire it to any accessory (12v switched power source)
I chose to wire it off one of the "Dash lights" I Think I spliced into the light circuit of the headlight leveler switch..
However you need to wire it with both the 12v power which is on or off when the headlights are on or off.. and the ground wire is actually what is wired to the rheostat, what that means is if you want the Illumination to go on, and dim with the rest of the dash, you need to tap both of the wires. The easiest one to get at is the Illumination for the Cigar lighter under the console. I chose the closest to the gauge though.
I tapped off the BOV line on the manifold, put in a T-Fitting that I had laying around (Bought from pep boys an assortment kit that I use periodically)
Ran the nylon line through the footwell wiring harness grommet on the passenger side (Used a coat hanger after poking a hole through the rubber (Its double walled) and had the line taped to the coat hanger to get it through.
One bit of advice about the lighting, If you want it on all the time as at a constant light level then you can wire it to any accessory (12v switched power source)
I chose to wire it off one of the "Dash lights" I Think I spliced into the light circuit of the headlight leveler switch..
However you need to wire it with both the 12v power which is on or off when the headlights are on or off.. and the ground wire is actually what is wired to the rheostat, what that means is if you want the Illumination to go on, and dim with the rest of the dash, you need to tap both of the wires. The easiest one to get at is the Illumination for the Cigar lighter under the console. I chose the closest to the gauge though.
Dec 18, 2003, 08:51 AM
#10
Oh.. and a word of warning.. the rubber will fatigue on the lines, it may be a good idea to zip tie the hoses on your connections.. The photo above my posts show it not zip tied.. It will eventually pop off if you don't. Its a good preventative measure.
Dec 18, 2003, 11:52 AM
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Damn, I didn't even think of using a small vacuum tee with a small length of line like that noodle. I have a big, bulky, ugly brass tee that I made. Your setup is so much more elegant.
Oh yah, and I haven't wired the lighting up for mine yet... and I put the darn thing in a lonnnng time ago (May maybe?). Just never got around to it. I want to do the dimming light setup though, if I ever get around to wiring.
Oh yah, and I haven't wired the lighting up for mine yet... and I put the darn thing in a lonnnng time ago (May maybe?). Just never got around to it. I want to do the dimming light setup though, if I ever get around to wiring.
Dec 19, 2003, 09:02 AM
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QUICK QUESTION...does anyone know the diameter of the stock boost tubing? I need to know what size of the tfitting i need. Is there a difference b/t a "tfitting" and a "vaccum t"? The stock boost hose is called "vaccum hose" right? if so...are they all the same diameters?
Last edited by SzuChenEvo; Dec 19, 2003 at 09:16 AM.
Dec 19, 2003, 11:41 AM
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szu: You want to make sure whatever you're working with is rated to handle vacuum. You can get vacuum tees at auto parts stores and stuff. They're just small plastic tees.
I forget the tubing diameter. I think that the barbs I bought were for 3/8" or 1/4" inner diameter tubing. I think the stock hose is actually different inner diameters at different places. So pick the tube you want to tap, pop it off, and measure it. Either that, or just buy a few different sizes tees at the store... the little plastic guys shouldn't cost too much.
I forget the tubing diameter. I think that the barbs I bought were for 3/8" or 1/4" inner diameter tubing. I think the stock hose is actually different inner diameters at different places. So pick the tube you want to tap, pop it off, and measure it. Either that, or just buy a few different sizes tees at the store... the little plastic guys shouldn't cost too much.
Dec 19, 2003, 12:11 PM
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All the feedback you have gotten above is good. Personally, I just used a cheap plastic T fitting that had a very small lead for the boost line, and bigger ends for the tapped ends (fit perfectly to the manifold line). No leaks that I can tell. Think the T cost like 60 cents at AutZone.
Regarding the install of the gauge. I did use the black metal housing from Autometer. However, rather than use the strap and pivot mounting kit, which put the gauge up too high (blocking the view to the stock instrument cluster). I simply bought some industrial strength adhesive backed velcro from Home Depot. Using the velcro, I just stuck the pod cylinder directly to the steering column & covered the wires in a loom. I think it ended up looking good (like the STI mount) & it does not block the view to the stock cluster at all. It has not had any problems with moving or coming off & I have thrown the car around pretty hard a few times over the last several months.
Good luck,
Jason
Regarding the install of the gauge. I did use the black metal housing from Autometer. However, rather than use the strap and pivot mounting kit, which put the gauge up too high (blocking the view to the stock instrument cluster). I simply bought some industrial strength adhesive backed velcro from Home Depot. Using the velcro, I just stuck the pod cylinder directly to the steering column & covered the wires in a loom. I think it ended up looking good (like the STI mount) & it does not block the view to the stock cluster at all. It has not had any problems with moving or coming off & I have thrown the car around pretty hard a few times over the last several months.
Good luck,
Jason