Darkn3s

iTrader: (47)

okay long story short_____________________

im in process of doing the my 1000mile break in but of course its not going to be as easy as said,.. well at least for me it hasn't been. i finally made it to 720miles just fine, SMOOTH with no issues at all and then of course i spoke to soon and my car decides to act up and mess up on me :/

as i was turning into the store while it was raining my car just randomly shuts off.. so then i go to start it back up and as soon as the revs drop the car just dies and stalls on me. so i had to manually keep the revs up above 2k to get back home..

i noticed a loud whistle sound whenever i rev'd, which lead me to believe it was a boost leak of some sort. i couldnt really listen good to see where it came from because it would just die as soon as i gave it some gas... i was able to do a boost leak test at 20psi and i heard nothing. i tried to follow the how to as best i could but still couldnt find or hear anything. did it from both tb and turbo comp side

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-how-why.html

suggestions:
reset iacv (waiting on my tuner to mess with it)
bad tps (not sure how to test)
replace tb shaft seal (need to send out to mil spec.. previous owner stripped butterfly screws )
check and replace injector seal (DONE fic injector to manifold seals were all cracked!)
Boost leak test (DONE couldnt find any)
Check Grimmspeed ebcs (DONE looked over the harness/pigtail and everything seems fine)


Mods
built 2.0 (720 miles on it)
stock head
fp black (720 miles on it)
speed density (tuned on it for 720 miles)
tial vta bov (tuned on for a couple of years now)
ecu flash
fic 1350 injectors (500 miles or so)
ams vsr IM
mil spec tb
buschur uicp/licp
grimmspeed ebcs

ct9asilver

iTrader: (13)

Sound like a combo of the TB shafts leaking and a bad TPS or IAC. My car was dying and stalling all of a sudden a few years back and it was the TPS.


BTW whats with a 1000 mile break in, on mine i drove it semi aggressively for the first 20 miles after it warmed up changed the oil, then got it fully tuned with no pampering or anything runs stronger and has better compression at 10k than when it had the original shortblock, changed the oil again at 500 miles and still no problems im at 15K on it now with Brad Penn oil changes every 3k miles.


http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

ezzey

iTrader: (3)

AMEN!!! i hit 24psi after 20miles of "break-in" dyno tuned after 100miles.

Darkn3s

iTrader: (47)

thanks yea i was just about to search on how to test those to see if they are bad

and about the 1k break in .. im going with what my tuner and builder suggested .. everyone has there own ways of breakin it in

ct9asilver

iTrader: (13)

It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete bull****. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.

David Buschur

EvilEVO800hp

iTrader: (2)

as long as you break in your rings to seat properly....boost the **** outta it! Im file'n my ring gap 2 or 3 thousand over spec because i plan on boosting the **** outta my 2.3 and with increased cylinder pressure, ring end gap is decreased further and i dont want to blow my piston heads apart!

Darkn3s

iTrader: (47)

i understand what your saying and trust me i would prefer to do it the quickest/ best way as possible. But since this was my first time having a motor built, i wasnt really familiar with the break in method so i figured why not ask the person that built it. it cost a pretty penny to get the car to level its at now and i really didnt want to risk anything by going against the builders suggestions. i see now that its a "very controversial topic" and alot of ppl will havent different opinions on what they consider a proper "break-in" but most of the ppl say to go what the engine builder tells you since he is the one that put it together

but all that aside^^ i appreciate the help man

Darkn3s

iTrader: (47)

back on topic... anyone??

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Any time i heard a loud whistle on a stock frame it was a leak where the J pipe meets the compressor outlet

Darkn3s

iTrader: (47)

update:

hey so i was looking at the tb and noticed that the iacv wasnt installed right.. the 3 bolts that held it was only held on with 2...it wasnt alighned right so it only allowed two bolts to secure it.. the 3rd was just there doing nothing.. im wondering if thats not installed and aligned right would that affect the idle?? since im having the idle issue at startup where it stalls as soon as the RPMs drop

Darkn3s

iTrader: (47)

hmm this is true.. i looked it over didnt see anything big or hear any thing when doing boost leak test but i will triple check it