Locked new motor on start up
Apr 25, 2011, 11:06 AM
#16
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than i would start checking bearing clearance. looks like you put some arp studs in after the motor was built? that could the whole cause of this. not line honing could cause all sorts of problems if not within spec.
Apr 25, 2011, 02:06 PM
#21
The story is that I was looking for a used stock short block about 2 years ago and I put that in my sig. Top Level Performance PM'd me and said they had one to sell for $800. They were very cool and let me make payments. After a few months, it was paid off but when they double checked the motor, something was messed up with the crank. They offered to refund the money as I said I was looking into a 2.4L but they said they had a built 2.3L that I could buy for another $1200 so I did that instead.
Apr 25, 2011, 02:10 PM
#22
The story is that I was looking for a used stock short block about 2 years ago and I put that in my sig. Top Level Performance PM'd me and said they had one to sell for $800. They were very cool and let me make payments. After a few months, it was paid off but when they double checked the motor, something was messed up with the crank. They offered to refund the money as I said I was looking into a 2.4L but they said they had a built 2.3L that I could buy for another $1200 so I did that instead.
Apr 25, 2011, 04:09 PM
#25
Take it out tear it down and inspect everything with micrometers especially crank. Re assemble with correct tolerances = problem solved. sometimes it is faster to just do it the harder / correct way compared to easier fiddling here and there second guessing a mystery someone else assembled. my .02 
Good luck.
Good luck.
Apr 28, 2011, 09:39 PM
#28
Unfortunately, this is what I found:
A thrust bearing came out of place and wedged between the block & girdle. Crank still won't budge and it took about 30 minutes to get the girdle out as it was wedged on between the crank on one side and the thrust bearing on the other side. It has Cosworth main bearings, not the ACLs that I put in the OP so I'm assuming Cosworth thrust bearings as well, I don't know yet. I've never seen this happen before and have no idea what causes it. Anyone seen this before?
A thrust bearing came out of place and wedged between the block & girdle. Crank still won't budge and it took about 30 minutes to get the girdle out as it was wedged on between the crank on one side and the thrust bearing on the other side. It has Cosworth main bearings, not the ACLs that I put in the OP so I'm assuming Cosworth thrust bearings as well, I don't know yet. I've never seen this happen before and have no idea what causes it. Anyone seen this before?
Apr 28, 2011, 09:50 PM
#29
Evolving Member
Thats weird i was for sure you where hitting the bores because of the longer stroke
To the other dude that posted your oil squirter's will still work with the 2.3ltr
To the other dude that posted your oil squirter's will still work with the 2.3ltr
Apr 29, 2011, 02:32 AM
#30
wow that is ridiculous. Why would the thrust bearings be separate from the main bearing ? Aren't they all one piece or is that just aftermarket ? Reason it happened is the block couldn't hold it in there and someone ( either the guys you purchased it from or who they purchased it from ) didn't measure the values during assembly and / or the surface where the bearing sits needed resurfaced due to previous spun bearing which they just " overlooked ". My best guess is too much clearance between the crank which would have required slightly larger bearings and or made worse by poor block surface from previous spun bearing . Either way they sold you a bad short block .
Last edited by 3grst01; Apr 29, 2011 at 02:35 AM.