Change main bearings with motor still in car
May 4, 2011, 11:32 PM
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Change main bearings with motor still in car
I got the engine still in the car, pan off. I got the main and rod bearing caps off now, I'm changing the rod bearings and would like to change the mains. Obviously I can change the lower bearings of the main but can I change the uppers with everything still installed (timing belt/trans/etc) or will be there too much pressure from the timing belt and whatnot pushing up on the bearing to slip them out? I honestly don't even know if this is possibly but I know its done on the big diesels I work on, can put a pin in an oil hole in the crank journal so it sticks out just enough to catch the bearing and turn the motor over and it pushes the bearing right out or can use a little punch or something and hit it to push it out.
Can this be done? If it can't be done would it be ok to just change the lowers and leave the old uppers? Better than nothing heh or would used upper and new lowers not wear right?
Thanks
Can this be done? If it can't be done would it be ok to just change the lowers and leave the old uppers? Better than nothing heh or would used upper and new lowers not wear right?
Thanks
May 5, 2011, 06:43 AM
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Inc. noobs. These kids are scared of some old school DSM work. "WAAA BUSCHUR WOULDNT DO IT SO I WONT EITHER!!!" Yes it can be done just make sure you work 1 at a time. half of the kids on this forum don't realize you can pretty much rebuild the motor with the block and transmission in the car haha.
May 5, 2011, 08:05 AM
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Yeah I know it would be a pain but it would be worth it in my case and give me good piece of mind of having all new bearings.
One more simple question, is the thrust part of the bearing only on the top half? Cuz when I pulled the lowers they were all just shells. Im used to older V8's having full circle 360 thrust bearings built into the bearings but is it correct I should only have the thrust on the top or should I have one on the bottom too?
One more simple question, is the thrust part of the bearing only on the top half? Cuz when I pulled the lowers they were all just shells. Im used to older V8's having full circle 360 thrust bearings built into the bearings but is it correct I should only have the thrust on the top or should I have one on the bottom too?
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May 5, 2011, 10:42 PM
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Define easier lol
Having to tear apart the whole front timing belt assembly and pulling the trans and the engine OR pulling the pan, some caps which have to be done anyway and just take time by easing out the mains and not touching anything else. I'll take the slow and steady way
Should have the new bearings late tomorrow so will be doing the bearings tomorrow or sometime this weekend depending how wasted I get for my birthday
Apr 11, 2014, 03:47 AM
#12
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94AWDcoupe, i'm changed my crank few days ago, installed ACL bearings. But when measured by plastigage oil clearance it have about 0.04mm. So I want change bearings to original but thicker.
Previous crank have excessive wear on crank pins caused by kinda rod failure. When building engine with new crank i'm forgot to measure rod big end for ellipse deformation, so engine knocking not gone.
Before repair:
After:
Previous crank have excessive wear on crank pins caused by kinda rod failure. When building engine with new crank i'm forgot to measure rod big end for ellipse deformation, so engine knocking not gone.
Before repair:
After:
Apr 12, 2014, 03:19 AM
#14
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94AWDcoupe, that's not belt. It's power steering pump. After about 15min whine dissapears.
So, there is will no problem with central main bearing replace with crank on? Or better to leave it, but change others to thicker one?
So, there is will no problem with central main bearing replace with crank on? Or better to leave it, but change others to thicker one?
Apr 12, 2014, 05:42 PM
#15
Can be done with the engine in the car but you really should drop the crank. It's not much more work. Of course...the trans has to be already dropped. 
I have done this twice. In my old Talon and in my current GVR4...with no issues. Just need to be meticulous. It's obviously more difficult to do it this way. if you can pull the motor, it's the best way to go at it.
I have done this twice. In my old Talon and in my current GVR4...with no issues. Just need to be meticulous. It's obviously more difficult to do it this way. if you can pull the motor, it's the best way to go at it.