messed around with MBC, now misfiring???
May 15, 2011 | 10:59 AM
#16
May 15, 2011 | 11:05 AM
#18
Sounds like you need a pro to look at your car. I'd take the advice and drive down to Buschur ( I would If I live that close). Trying to remedy any problems over a forum isn't the way to go with our cars, unless your fairly certain of what your doing. No disrespect but small problems like this can turn into major overhauls; i should know lol...
May 15, 2011 | 12:31 PM
#19
Buschur might be a little further away, but at least you know they can do exactly what you need done.
May 15, 2011 | 02:24 PM
#20
also, Id like to add that I logged a couple pulls before this started happening and got no knock through redline and made 328hp... I would like to lean towards the tune on it being very appropriate and accurate. The power curve on virtualdyno was very smooth...
im watching the ecuflash instructional videos. this may be the nudge i needed to start tuning myself
im watching the ecuflash instructional videos. this may be the nudge i needed to start tuning myself
May 15, 2011 | 07:16 PM
#21
car is running worse and worse. the service engine soon light flashed a couple of times and it feels gutless after becoming really warm. not having the best hope
Tried doing a compression test, but the threaded tip got stuck in my head, and the hose became loose, so I pulled it off, and then realized the tip isnt shaped to accept any type of socket. fml
Tried doing a compression test, but the threaded tip got stuck in my head, and the hose became loose, so I pulled it off, and then realized the tip isnt shaped to accept any type of socket. fml
Last edited by prowakeskater; May 15, 2011 at 08:46 PM.
May 15, 2011 | 08:44 PM
#22
so I pulled my rom and found some interesting stuff.
looks like my afr settings are really really rich, and it seems like my low octane map was confused with my high octane map. The low one has more timing than the high! wtf
looks like my afr settings are really really rich, and it seems like my low octane map was confused with my high octane map. The low one has more timing than the high! wtf
May 16, 2011 | 08:00 AM
#26
ran into this information:
I have noticed my car run progressively worse the warmer it got... keeping my fingers crossed
You will be able to feel a misfire epsecially under hard acceleration as there will be a stumble in the engine, and it will most likely continue perhaps causing a nice shake in the car. If you have exhaust you will likely hear it as well. If you have a wideband look for a rich spike. Depenind on how bad of a mis it is it may or may not give you a check engine light, or CEL. Sometimes a your spark can get blown out because of improper gap and this can cause a mis but usually only under boost. Also if you have a weak coilpack (cop) this can cause a misfire as well. The car may idle fine and only mis under certain conditions. If it is a weak coilpack then it may run fine when cold but start to mis once its warmed up.
May 16, 2011 | 12:03 PM
#27
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 3
From: riverside, ca
well another thing that just hit me man, when u swapped your blow off valves, are you sure the recirc hose and clamps for the bov on the uicp and the intake are all on evenly on the pipe and tightened as much as possible, cuz those could be causin an issue, if air is escaping out there due to a boost leak. Just hit me right now, look into that simple check that could possibly cure the issue.
May 16, 2011 | 12:34 PM
#28
well another thing that just hit me man, when u swapped your blow off valves, are you sure the recirc hose and clamps for the bov on the uicp and the intake are all on evenly on the pipe and tightened as much as possible, cuz those could be causin an issue, if air is escaping out there due to a boost leak. Just hit me right now, look into that simple check that could possibly cure the issue.
Thanks!
May 16, 2011 | 12:39 PM
#29
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,387
Likes: 3
From: riverside, ca
when you go back through start with ur licp off the turbo, use hairspray spray on each part of the piping where theres a coupler, spray it on there give it a min or so to somewhat dry, then install couplers evenly on piping then clamp them down pass the flange, go through each till you get to the throttle body, thats a cheap way to do a boost leak test. Do each coupler and clamp including your blow off valve recirc hose and uicp to that hose as well. Try each and tighten em down, then go for a test drive and see if its better.
Good luck
Good luck
May 16, 2011 | 06:02 PM
#30
ok installed everything and damn, this Stri really sucks! its nowhere near accurate and bounces all over the place. Oh well...
but paying attention to the AFR made me realize that im experiencing major symptoms that point to boost leak. My AFR drops all the way into the 9's boosting past 10-15 psi and its feeling like the car is falling on its face now.
So im pretty sure the afr was getting extremely low to the point of misfire, and has gotten progressively worse.
boost leak test is in order, and I just received new tb seals.
but paying attention to the AFR made me realize that im experiencing major symptoms that point to boost leak. My AFR drops all the way into the 9's boosting past 10-15 psi and its feeling like the car is falling on its face now.
So im pretty sure the afr was getting extremely low to the point of misfire, and has gotten progressively worse.
boost leak test is in order, and I just received new tb seals.