400awhp daily
May 27, 2011, 07:26 PM
#16
Evolved Member
or since e85 isnt available do what most of the east coast guys do tryin to hit big hp numbers, look into a meth injection aquamist i know makes a great kit, hell u might break 400 on stock turbo with supporting mods so long as its cool there, but from what u were sayin before stay away from there street core, not saying its bad, but youll want an ic at least 3.5 " so look into there race core, or maybe an ets ic as well. Im swapping my xs engineering fmic which is 3.0" for an ets 3.5", my goal is 450 but on a dynojet, now ive got prolly 4x the amount invested in my setup compared to ya, so remember buy the right mods the first time dont go cheap, when you go cheap you always replace it a second time, and in the end will disappoint you over the number you hit, compared to the number you wanted.
May 27, 2011, 07:34 PM
#17
400-450 on md is sufficient for me.
what size injectors and what valvesprings & retainers do you all use up going with?
ETS is probably a good choice for the cost.
but how much difference can the "shortest route" vs stock route be?
i baby the car.. and it gets driven roughly 50 miles a week if that. and more than 3/4 the time im not even hitting it.
what size injectors and what valvesprings & retainers do you all use up going with?
ETS is probably a good choice for the cost.
but how much difference can the "shortest route" vs stock route be?
i baby the car.. and it gets driven roughly 50 miles a week if that. and more than 3/4 the time im not even hitting it.
May 27, 2011, 07:44 PM
#18
Evolved Member
well if your shootin for 450 hp on a mustang, even without e85 youll wanna run a minimum of 1k cc injectors...as long as your tuner knows what hes doin he can scale em properly and youll get good gas mileage, I for example, have pte 880s and a single walbro and one tank of gas with light on mostly highway miles i clocked 290. As far as springs/retainers go, you dont need them unless your swapping in aggresive cams, gsc s2s and kelford 272s, as long as you stay with stock rev limit theyll be fine, but when you wanna start pushin 8k rpms, me im running crower springs/retainers, which are good. My cams i currently have are hks 272s, but im swappin them in the next few weeks for some gsc s2s... so since you have a ix, look into the kelfords or gscs, and with your mivec you can get the idle dialed in nice. As far as ic piping goes, my ets short route uicp has 2 ft less of bends, which = quicker spool up time, better transient response( meaning reboostin after each gear), all in all much better. Now you go short route your alternative is either a) mini battery, which I ran but could barely handle stock sound system with two 10" kicker comps, or you can do what I did and relocate your battery to the trunk. Since you have a stock battery, buy yourself a relocation kit, put it in the trunk, you dont realize how much easier it is to do a lot of stuff, when your battery is no longer underneath the hood hah
May 27, 2011, 08:09 PM
#21
Evolved Member
yea meaning not an overpowering sound system, but enough to make the lights dim horribly on the dash with my normal lights on, not enough cranking amps or cold cranking amps...for a system plus normal accesories, so the easier and less problematic of the mini battery vs relocation is to go relocated.
May 27, 2011, 09:06 PM
#25
Newbie
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Kill(een) Fort Hood, TX
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
good luck with your plans. i drove mine around with around 330 for almost three years and it wasnt till now that I decided to do a big boy build and go over 400. my only recommendation is to not rush things and do things right the first time! with some good research on here and shop you can trust to do some good work you will be just fine DD at over 400.
May 27, 2011, 09:19 PM
#26
Evolved Member
Also, keep in mind...in many cases you will find that a car with less peak hp and more room under the curve is much faster on the street. A 400 whp car with plenty of midrange will wax a car with a big laggy turbo and small area under the curve. If you are basing your desire for 450 awhp off a gut feeling, you may want to shoot for ~400. The BBK-Full and FP HTA Green can both achieve great numbers north of 400 awhp on pump gas without losing significant spool from the stock turbo. I personally would rather have a 400 whp car with tons of usable power than a 500 whp car with tons of lag.
Springs/retainers somewhat depends on the intended rev limit and the cams you end up going with. Good luck!
Springs/retainers somewhat depends on the intended rev limit and the cams you end up going with. Good luck!
May 28, 2011, 04:23 AM
#29
Also, keep in mind...in many cases you will find that a car with less peak hp and more room under the curve is much faster on the street. A 400 whp car with plenty of midrange will wax a car with a big laggy turbo and small area under the curve. If you are basing your desire for 450 awhp off a gut feeling, you may want to shoot for ~400. The BBK-Full and FP HTA Green can both achieve great numbers north of 400 awhp on pump gas without losing significant spool from the stock turbo. I personally would rather have a 400 whp car with tons of usable power than a 500 whp car with tons of lag.
Springs/retainers somewhat depends on the intended rev limit and the cams you end up going with. Good luck!
Springs/retainers somewhat depends on the intended rev limit and the cams you end up going with. Good luck!
May 28, 2011, 07:45 AM
#30
Evolved Member