04WickedWhite

Hey everyone, i'm in desperate need of some help. I have searched the forums over the last 2 days with no luck at all. I'll start from the beginning.

About a month ago, i was coming home from work on the interstate. Once i left the exit ramp, i noticed a very slight knock above about 3k rpm, that sounded like a rod bearing knocking, but didnt sound quite as deep as the tell tale rod knock. After searching the forums i found that the bearings can be checked by dropping the oil pan with motor still in the car. I tore it down and found my #3 bearing to be spun, but no markings on the crank whatsoever. I ordered a set of ACL Race bearings in standard size and went ahead and replaced all the rod bearings and all others seemed to be fine. The next day i got some plastigauge and checked all the clearances. When i pulled the #2 cap off, the bearing was scratched where it meets up with the rod, and the same thing on the rod too. It seems that i have absolutely no clearance on the bearing because i can push the bearing and cap onto the crank journal and it will stay there without being through the rod studs. I took another cap from a different cylinder and it moved freely on the #2 journal. I then compared the two bearing caps to one another and the #2 cap is noticeably smaller inside than the #3 cap. How can this happen?? and what options do i have to get it back together? i already threw the old bearings out so i cant put them back in either. I know the right thing to do is pull the motor and replace the rods and crank but i would like to try this to get me by for the time being. Any input would be greatly appreciated. I should also add that the previous owner had ARP headstuds and rod studs installed so i dont know if something could have got messed up when they were installed. thanks again guys, hope someone can point me in the right direction.

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

You need to put what engine is in it....factory engine? aftermarket built? specs? Stock crank/rods/bearings?

Metal shavings in the pan? How long was it running since the knocking happened?

04WickedWhite

It is a stock motor, stock rods, stock crank, but the previous owner must have tore the motor down because it has ARP headstuds and rodstuds. i didnt even bother plastigauging it because there is clearly not enough clearance. i am wondering how the rod managed to gain extra material and shrink the I.D. i have seen the rod become too large but never once have i seen it shrink. I am not in the position to pull the motor at this point which i know will eventually need to be done. i just want to get me by for the time being. there were also some metal shavings in the pan which is to be expected with a bad bearing, but there wasnt a massive amount of shavings or anything. any input is greatly appreciated

04WickedWhite

oh, and once i heard it knocking, i limped it about 2 miles to my house where it sat until i tore it apart. I was on the throttle heavy right before it started, ran it up to about 7k.

04WickedWhite

oh, and once i heard it knocking, i limped it about 2 miles to my house where it sat until i tore it apart. I was on the throttle heavy right before it started knocking, ran it up to about 7k.

javicracer

iTrader: (82)

the wole motor is gonna be full of metal shavings, the motor need to come out of the car!

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

Yeah agree with him ^^^^^

and a new oil cooler or flush it REALLY GOOD, or just bypass it like my previous owner did if you still got yours.

And something seems weird, it was fine but once you beat on it it spun the bearing? Was it the first time beating on the motor? ACL (and im sure others) has .001 + clearance bearings which have an extra .001 clearance in them, might be able to get away with throwing one of them in the tight rod? Either way sounds like the rod big end got warped or something. I would pull the motor for the sake of the metal shavings, and mic the journals and see if they're good, maybe can reuse the crank and just drop in some rod/pistons.

04WickedWhite

ok, thanks for the help guys. This was definitely not the first time i've beat on it. I've always driven this car like a bat outta hell, which may have something to do with this problem. All is well, guess it's time for one hell of a motor build!! And one more thing, is pulling the motor really as big of a deal as everyone makes it out to be? Anyone got a link to a good guide to follow to pull motor/tranny out the top? thanks again

My03evo

iTrader: (1)

I had wondered the same exact thing too so I made a thread wether to pull it from the top or bottom, with trans on or off, transfer case in or out, etc..Then people will say keep the transfer case in so you can leave the acd line in (if you have it) then you dont have to worry about bleeding it, but I pulled everything and learned how to bleed it and glad I did everything I did, and now I got experience with everything...My first time SUCKED but I never worked on an awd car before and I was tired from my job. If or when I do it again, take off the transfer case and secure it out of the way, jack it up nice and high, take out the lower crossmember (only 3 bolts) and all the other nonsense and drop the motor with the trans. Do a search and youll see plenty of threads/tutorials with pics and bolt sizes and info. Prob will find the one thread I made too