pflores210

iTrader: (9)

Ok so I just got my head gasket replaced and head was warped about 6. So I got it machined and after about 2000 miles I started having heating issues well I just replaced the coolant temp sensor and went to replace the tstat but autozone got me a wrong one so I ran the car today with no tstat and it helped a lot but it still got kinda hot 3/4 high on the gauges. I called my tuner he said my first mistake was getting the head machined. He said I shouldn't of done it and now I have to take out the block and get it fully decked and rebuilt since my head and block will never mate again. So my question is if I torque the head studs more than 80 would this solve my problem or is my tuner right and I have to spend 5k to get it running perfectly again. Any help would he greatly appreciated also since I got the car the temp gauge has always moved up and down

JdMeVo4

iTrader: (29)

Are you actually pushing coolant out of the recovery tank or is she just running hot?

pflores210

iTrader: (9)

I havent noticed any coolant coming out of the tank as the overflow and radiator are still full

JdMeVo4

iTrader: (29)

Im assuming you checked all of the obvious like fan operation etc?... Is that supposed to be 6 thousandths that was cut off of the head?

pflores210

iTrader: (9)

Yeah and the fan is on and yeah 6 thousandths off the head

pflores210

iTrader: (9)

Anyone

barneyb

Lets go back in time a little. You warped the head so that means it was hot before the repair. How did that happen?

pflores210

iTrader: (9)

Blown coolant line from tb to Head

barneyb

Okay, I was wondering if you had had cooling system problems (other than the leak) before the HG repair.

With the same problem I would have done exactly as you did. I know what you tuner is thinking, he thinks the block is warped. Well, it could be.

So, what to do? I'd watch it until I was convinced it was the HG again while tinkering as you suggested. Then I'd straight edge the block and if anything close to flat I'd throw in another HG before going the big bux route.

pflores210

iTrader: (9)

Actually I have since switching out my mishimoto radiator to my stock one in the winter time my temp gauge if I didn't let my car fully warm up it would be cold then shoot up hOt then I'd coast for a min and start the car and it would be fine

javicracer

iTrader: (82)

your deck is warp! you dont need to rebuild the short block but youre gonna need to have the block decked.

barneyb

Well, wait and see how it acts with a new thermostat. That might have been the cause. Also, make sure the radiator stays full.

barneyb

Here's something you might check.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ting-help.html

dastallion951

well it depends on the block, rule of thumb is to check the straightness on the block with a straight edge, and use a feeler gauge between the block and straightedge as long as its within spec it doesnt need to be machined. As far as overheating goes, why did u drive it without a thermostat, thats retarded. Thermostat is there to help regulate the coolant at a given temp. You shouldve bought one online and overnighted it. Other then oil or coolant dont buy a lot of parts from autozone, some are good most are crap to be honest. So long story short, get a thermostat in, as far as checking for coolant leaks fill your system pressure test it with the car off, and see if you have any other leaks. Just make sure when the thermostat is replaced to, fully bleed the system of air. Dont torque the head more then 80, are you kidding? you mustve smoked yourself retarded. Your making more issues then need be. Use my advice, search on here or ask your tuner whats the limit of the deck surface as far as tolerance limit for how straight it can be, it might be 0.005 to 0.001 check it with a straight edge and feelergauge, then youll know if the block has to be redecked.