BREAK IN: Synthetic vs. Dino
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BREAK IN: Synthetic vs. Dino
Note: I know this has been beaten to death, but I have read every related post on this site, and am still unsure of what to do.
I will be taking delivery of my evo FEB 1st, and was planning on swapping out the synthetic for conventional oil as it seems evos broken in on synthetic appear to be consuming more oil. The only thing keeping me from doing so is the possibility of a voided warranty. If you were to run dino for the first 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic, would the dealer be able to tell? Also, what conventional oil do you use/recommend on the evo?
I will be taking delivery of my evo FEB 1st, and was planning on swapping out the synthetic for conventional oil as it seems evos broken in on synthetic appear to be consuming more oil. The only thing keeping me from doing so is the possibility of a voided warranty. If you were to run dino for the first 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic, would the dealer be able to tell? Also, what conventional oil do you use/recommend on the evo?
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Re: BREAK IN: Synthetic vs. Dino
Do what you want to do, it's your car.
Originally posted by bluevilevo8
Note: I know this has been beaten to death, but I have read every related post on this site, and am still unsure of what to do.
I will be taking delivery of my evo FEB 1st, and was planning on swapping out the synthetic for conventional oil as it seems evos broken in on synthetic appear to be consuming more oil. The only thing keeping me from doing so is the possibility of a voided warranty. If you were to run dino for the first 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic, would the dealer be able to tell? Also, what conventional oil do you use/recommend on the evo?
Note: I know this has been beaten to death, but I have read every related post on this site, and am still unsure of what to do.
I will be taking delivery of my evo FEB 1st, and was planning on swapping out the synthetic for conventional oil as it seems evos broken in on synthetic appear to be consuming more oil. The only thing keeping me from doing so is the possibility of a voided warranty. If you were to run dino for the first 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic, would the dealer be able to tell? Also, what conventional oil do you use/recommend on the evo?
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I always heard once you have synthetic never go back, and I also heard that dino is the best for breakin because synthetic is to slick. As for the dealer knowing you didn't use sythetic for 1000 miles, theres no way for them to tell. And if they don't change your oil for free for you, you can use whatever you choose (theres a law about that).
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If I could do it all over again I would break in on dino oil for sure. I doubt it would hurt the motor to break in on dino, just remember to stay off boost for a while before shutting the car off. btw the dealer can tell dino from synthetic if they have good techs and are looking for it. Just do oil changes yourself, it's not hard to do at all and you save some cash.
Last edited by evil8; Dec 26, 2003 at 07:49 PM.
#5
Every new BMW comes from the factory with synthetic, so does every Mercedes. This includes the M3 and the AMG versions of Mercedes cars.
Corvettes are shipped with synthetic as well.
Every rebuilt race car engine I have seen also have broken in using synthetic as far BMW race cars are concerned.
Based on this, I decided to stay with the factory recommendations for
break-in and oil changes.
The car to car variations of dyno numbers are just that. At one day we tested about 10 M3s on a dyno all of the same type (E36 3.2L) and the results vary between 220 rwhp to 200 rwhp.
And if something happens to your engine or your turbo while running conventional oil, it only takes 20 dollars and 1 day to send oil for testing. And guess what happens to your warranty when they find out.
Corvettes are shipped with synthetic as well.
Every rebuilt race car engine I have seen also have broken in using synthetic as far BMW race cars are concerned.
Based on this, I decided to stay with the factory recommendations for
break-in and oil changes.
The car to car variations of dyno numbers are just that. At one day we tested about 10 M3s on a dyno all of the same type (E36 3.2L) and the results vary between 220 rwhp to 200 rwhp.
And if something happens to your engine or your turbo while running conventional oil, it only takes 20 dollars and 1 day to send oil for testing. And guess what happens to your warranty when they find out.
Last edited by m3jstock; Dec 26, 2003 at 07:48 PM.
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Originally posted by m3jstock
Every new BMW comes from the factory with synthetic, so does every Mercedes. This includes the M3 and the AMG versions of Mercedes cars.
Corvettes are shipped with synthetic as well.
Every rebuilt race car engine I have seen also have broken in using synthetic as far BMW race cars are concerned.
Based on this, I decided to stay with the factory recommendations for
break-in and oil changes.
The car to car variations of dyno numbers are just that. At one day we tested about 10 M3s on a dyno all of the same type (E36 3.2L) and the results vary between 220 rwhp to 200 rwhp.
And if something happens to your engine or your turbo while running conventional oil, it only takes 20 dollars and 1 day to send oil for testing. And guess what happens to your warranty when they find out.
I think anyone else selling the break-in using conventional oil is really selling "snake oil" IMHO.
Every new BMW comes from the factory with synthetic, so does every Mercedes. This includes the M3 and the AMG versions of Mercedes cars.
Corvettes are shipped with synthetic as well.
Every rebuilt race car engine I have seen also have broken in using synthetic as far BMW race cars are concerned.
Based on this, I decided to stay with the factory recommendations for
break-in and oil changes.
The car to car variations of dyno numbers are just that. At one day we tested about 10 M3s on a dyno all of the same type (E36 3.2L) and the results vary between 220 rwhp to 200 rwhp.
And if something happens to your engine or your turbo while running conventional oil, it only takes 20 dollars and 1 day to send oil for testing. And guess what happens to your warranty when they find out.
I think anyone else selling the break-in using conventional oil is really selling "snake oil" IMHO.
#7
Originally posted by evil8
OK how would you explain all the Evos broken in with synthetic that have gas in their oil while Evos broken in on dino don't have this problem? The conclusion I draw is more blowby broken in with synthetic.
OK how would you explain all the Evos broken in with synthetic that have gas in their oil while Evos broken in on dino don't have this problem? The conclusion I draw is more blowby broken in with synthetic.
so far, neither does my race car.
I think having some fuel residue in the oil
is normal for forced induction engines
especially ones that run real rich under full boost like the EVO.
Your best bet is to get your oil analyzed, that will tell you the "real story" In fact, we should see oil analysis results from both cars broken in on synthetic and conventional oil and that will tell the actual results.
Now, I did take care to drive the engine under load as soon as the 600 miles were gone which meants lots of back roads driving :-)
Without full oil testing, I don't think I will have the confidence to outguess Mitsubishi engineers being an engineer myself.
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#9
There are several vendors that sell oil analysis kits.
For my turbo diesel truck, the recommended vendor was:
http://store.avlube.com/oilanalysiskit.html
http://store.avlube.com/feroilankit.html
The duramax owners seem to like the vendor.
Another one that may help is
www.kennedydiesel.com.
For my turbo diesel truck, the recommended vendor was:
http://store.avlube.com/oilanalysiskit.html
http://store.avlube.com/feroilankit.html
The duramax owners seem to like the vendor.
Another one that may help is
www.kennedydiesel.com.
Originally posted by Thoe99
I have gas in my oil, the smell is rather strong, which concerns me. I broke the car in with synthetic, very easy for 650 miles, in which I tore it up after. How do you go about getting your oil analyzed and what can they tell from it?
I have gas in my oil, the smell is rather strong, which concerns me. I broke the car in with synthetic, very easy for 650 miles, in which I tore it up after. How do you go about getting your oil analyzed and what can they tell from it?
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If I had it to do over I would break it in with dino. It can only help. If your breaking it in like your supposed to and taking it easy dino is not going to hurt your turbo. I think you will definately get better results breaking in with dino for about first 1000 miles. My car eats some oil. This is the first vehicle of any kind that I did not break in with dino and the first one that eats oil. I'm sure you've already read everyones opinion so just do what you think is best based on what you've read.
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i donno.....brett from vishnu told me to put in dino from day one, i did, so be it. i don't nearly as much power loss after 5k as some evo's do. do wut u want tho.
#12
Originally posted by mojo
If I had it to do over I would break it in with dino. It can only help. If your breaking it in like your supposed to and taking it easy dino is not going to hurt your turbo. I think you will definately get better results breaking in with dino for about first 1000 miles. My car eats some oil. This is the first vehicle of any kind that I did not break in with dino and the first one that eats oil. I'm sure you've already read everyones opinion so just do what you think is best based on what you've read.
If I had it to do over I would break it in with dino. It can only help. If your breaking it in like your supposed to and taking it easy dino is not going to hurt your turbo. I think you will definately get better results breaking in with dino for about first 1000 miles. My car eats some oil. This is the first vehicle of any kind that I did not break in with dino and the first one that eats oil. I'm sure you've already read everyones opinion so just do what you think is best based on what you've read.
My co-workers C4S has used about 1 qt of oil every 1K miles until the car
was about 10K miles then stopped. This car also came from the factory with synthetic.
#13
Originally posted by m3jstock
Every rebuilt race car engine I have seen also have broken in using synthetic as far BMW race cars are concerned.
Every rebuilt race car engine I have seen also have broken in using synthetic as far BMW race cars are concerned.
If it's broken in on the street, there is insufficient load most of the time, eg freeway driving, so I would go for dinooil after all I have read.
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<---broke in with what was in the car, but did the first oil change around 1.5k miles.
Seems like whatever the factory puts in the car, will be what is best for it, but I dont know that for sure....im just trusting the little guys in Japan who happen to build this motor and also have been building these for a while now.....I could be wrong either way so dont base my opinion on anything.
Seems like whatever the factory puts in the car, will be what is best for it, but I dont know that for sure....im just trusting the little guys in Japan who happen to build this motor and also have been building these for a while now.....I could be wrong either way so dont base my opinion on anything.
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I changed from synth to dyno the 1st day, did a track event with dyno and my dyno is about 20 HP higher then most. Lowest green is a different 100% stock evo just like mine.