Coolant Overflow - Retorquing head stud
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Coolant Overflow - Retorquing head stud
Hi. It's been a while but I want some opinion.
My 03 Evo 8 with 62000miles on E85 with 380whp/362trq is mainly used for autox.
I got my timing belt and water pump changed out and this is where my problem seemed to be started. First the harmonic balancer was installed 180 degree off so the motor had a really bad vibration above 4000rpm. It was taken care of.
Also, at the same time, the mechanic didn't burp the cooling system so after my autox run, the coolant was over flowing. I burped the system but the overflowing issue did not go away. I thought that was my poor burping skill. I bled like 3 times 25mins each.
I thought the problem was fixed and went to a track day last weekend. I had a coolant overflow issue again. Once the reservor tank was completely empty. I bled the system before each session. Twice the stock water temp gauge started going up to 3/4 to "H" and I slowed down.
Now, I believe the head gasket is lifting. There is no significant amount of oil in coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust and the motor oil seems really clean. I realized for a while before I got my 60K service done, it's not hitting the target boost. It's set at 26psi but hits like 24psi.
I'm wondering since the symptom of the blown HG is so small, if I can just get APR head stud and re-torque will work. If it doesn't work, it goes to reputable shop in the bay and get the HG replaced and head machined flat. I believe APR studs are re-usable.
Does anyone have any experience in just re-torquing the stud? Or am I just wasting time.
My 03 Evo 8 with 62000miles on E85 with 380whp/362trq is mainly used for autox.
I got my timing belt and water pump changed out and this is where my problem seemed to be started. First the harmonic balancer was installed 180 degree off so the motor had a really bad vibration above 4000rpm. It was taken care of.
Also, at the same time, the mechanic didn't burp the cooling system so after my autox run, the coolant was over flowing. I burped the system but the overflowing issue did not go away. I thought that was my poor burping skill. I bled like 3 times 25mins each.
I thought the problem was fixed and went to a track day last weekend. I had a coolant overflow issue again. Once the reservor tank was completely empty. I bled the system before each session. Twice the stock water temp gauge started going up to 3/4 to "H" and I slowed down.
Now, I believe the head gasket is lifting. There is no significant amount of oil in coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust and the motor oil seems really clean. I realized for a while before I got my 60K service done, it's not hitting the target boost. It's set at 26psi but hits like 24psi.
I'm wondering since the symptom of the blown HG is so small, if I can just get APR head stud and re-torque will work. If it doesn't work, it goes to reputable shop in the bay and get the HG replaced and head machined flat. I believe APR studs are re-usable.
Does anyone have any experience in just re-torquing the stud? Or am I just wasting time.
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I think thermostat is okay since I see more bubbles coming out after the fun kicks in. I'm going to check radiator cap.
Do you know if rad cap is standard for all car? I hate to grab one from Autozone but it's the quickest one for testing. Or should I grab Mitsu OEM?
Do you know if rad cap is standard for all car? I hate to grab one from Autozone but it's the quickest one for testing. Or should I grab Mitsu OEM?
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Hi. It's been a while but I want some opinion.
My 03 Evo 8 with 62000miles on E85 with 380whp/362trq is mainly used for autox.
I got my timing belt and water pump changed out and this is where my problem seemed to be started. First the harmonic balancer was installed 180 degree off so the motor had a really bad vibration above 4000rpm. It was taken care of.
Also, at the same time, the mechanic didn't burp the cooling system so after my autox run, the coolant was over flowing. I burped the system but the overflowing issue did not go away. I thought that was my poor burping skill. I bled like 3 times 25mins each.
I thought the problem was fixed and went to a track day last weekend. I had a coolant overflow issue again. Once the reservor tank was completely empty. I bled the system before each session. Twice the stock water temp gauge started going up to 3/4 to "H" and I slowed down.
Now, I believe the head gasket is lifting. There is no significant amount of oil in coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust and the motor oil seems really clean. I realized for a while before I got my 60K service done, it's not hitting the target boost. It's set at 26psi but hits like 24psi.
I'm wondering since the symptom of the blown HG is so small, if I can just get APR head stud and re-torque will work. If it doesn't work, it goes to reputable shop in the bay and get the HG replaced and head machined flat. I believe APR studs are re-usable.
Does anyone have any experience in just re-torquing the stud? Or am I just wasting time.
My 03 Evo 8 with 62000miles on E85 with 380whp/362trq is mainly used for autox.
I got my timing belt and water pump changed out and this is where my problem seemed to be started. First the harmonic balancer was installed 180 degree off so the motor had a really bad vibration above 4000rpm. It was taken care of.
Also, at the same time, the mechanic didn't burp the cooling system so after my autox run, the coolant was over flowing. I burped the system but the overflowing issue did not go away. I thought that was my poor burping skill. I bled like 3 times 25mins each.
I thought the problem was fixed and went to a track day last weekend. I had a coolant overflow issue again. Once the reservor tank was completely empty. I bled the system before each session. Twice the stock water temp gauge started going up to 3/4 to "H" and I slowed down.
Now, I believe the head gasket is lifting. There is no significant amount of oil in coolant and there is no smoke from the exhaust and the motor oil seems really clean. I realized for a while before I got my 60K service done, it's not hitting the target boost. It's set at 26psi but hits like 24psi.
I'm wondering since the symptom of the blown HG is so small, if I can just get APR head stud and re-torque will work. If it doesn't work, it goes to reputable shop in the bay and get the HG replaced and head machined flat. I believe APR studs are re-usable.
Does anyone have any experience in just re-torquing the stud? Or am I just wasting time.
FYI, your balance shaft was 180* out, not your harmonic balancer. Harmonic "balancer" or damper is your crank pulley.
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I will have to replace the head gasket if it is head gasket. I'm not gonna retorque anymore but I'm not getting the typical symptom of blow head gasket such as burnt coolat or oil in the coolant. Apparently, the bad radiator cap has similar symptom as I'm getting. Let's see.
#7
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I'd guess that half the people on this board have radiator caps that don't hold pressure. They go bad rather quickly. A 16 lb. cap is all you need to replace the stocker.
I once had a thermostat break and just stay closed. I got about 1.5 miles before it got hot and it went from everything normal to Old Faithful very quickly.
I once had a thermostat break and just stay closed. I got about 1.5 miles before it got hot and it went from everything normal to Old Faithful very quickly.
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I'd guess that half the people on this board have radiator caps that don't hold pressure. They go bad rather quickly. A 16 lb. cap is all you need to replace the stocker.
I once had a thermostat break and just stay closed. I got about 1.5 miles before it got hot and it went from everything normal to Old Faithful very quickly.
I once had a thermostat break and just stay closed. I got about 1.5 miles before it got hot and it went from everything normal to Old Faithful very quickly.
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I had the same problem mine was filling up the over flow tank because the head was lifting under boost and because we caught it early all I had to do is torque the arp headstuds from 70lbs to 105lbs and everything is fine. I would say new hg and put arp in and that would fix it
#11
Best bet would be to try the new rad cap first as it's much cheaper less time consuming. Hopefully that solves your issue, if not, it sounds like it may be time for a new HG.
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Thanks guys for the info! I'm gonna try out the rad cap today. Crossing my finger that's gonna solve the problem. If not, it's gonna be $$$. It'll be the first major issue with my car after I got the car in 03!
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I had the same problem mine was filling up the over flow tank because the head was lifting under boost and because we caught it early all I had to do is torque the arp headstuds from 70lbs to 105lbs and everything is fine. I would say new hg and put arp in and that would fix it
Also, did you see any oil in coolant or coolant in oil?
Last edited by Dream Came True; Jul 13, 2011 at 02:39 PM.
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I did not replace mine. It was filling up my overflow tank by pressurizing the coolant system and no I did not have and coolant in my oil.I was told that what arp said to torque the bolts at is not enough on most evos.