Don't know what's wrong with my clutch
Jul 27, 2011, 05:51 AM
#16
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Did you properly adjust your clutch pedal according to a how to somewhere or just adjust it?
You can definitely make clutch issues much worse by adjusting your pedal without knowing how.
Did you try to push your shift fork back into the slave cylinder to make sure it would push back?
Did you watch the reservoir level rise/fall when you did the step above?
Did you pull the salve cylinder boot back to make sure the fluid isn't kept in by the boot?
That boot is air tight, I guarantee you it can fill up with fluid and you'd never know it if you didn't pull it back. Follow this to make sure your clutch is PROPERLY adjusted -
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...-tech-articles
Also as you're aware, if you keep that grinding stuff up you'll be changing your post to read it IS a trans issue now as you're grinding down the synchros.
You can definitely make clutch issues much worse by adjusting your pedal without knowing how.
Did you try to push your shift fork back into the slave cylinder to make sure it would push back?
Did you watch the reservoir level rise/fall when you did the step above?
Did you pull the salve cylinder boot back to make sure the fluid isn't kept in by the boot?
That boot is air tight, I guarantee you it can fill up with fluid and you'd never know it if you didn't pull it back. Follow this to make sure your clutch is PROPERLY adjusted -
http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...-tech-articles
Also as you're aware, if you keep that grinding stuff up you'll be changing your post to read it IS a trans issue now as you're grinding down the synchros.
Jul 27, 2011, 03:11 PM
#17
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Checked inside the slave cylinder boot. It's bone dry. The slave will push back.
I took the car for a short drive to try and have a better understand of whats going on. And one thing I forgot to mention is the clutch pedal itself feels 100% the same that it always has. Still slightly added shift effort, anything over 3000rpm is complete lock out, doesn't matter which gear. Car still bogs when coming to a stop with the pedal depressed. It's now starting to have excessive clutch chatter in combination with the bogging when stopping. The TOB clip appears to be in place.
I think it's safe to say that it just needs a new clutch. Something is broken or worn.
What company clutch paints their pressure plates white? And what is a good recommended clutch for a car that will probably never see over 450whp? I hear over and over about lock out problems with ACT. I was looking at the Exedy Organic or the HD organic clutch. I DO NOT launch, I DO NOT drag race. I DO NOT flat shift. I will upshift birskly at redline, but the clutch doesn't take any abuse from it. I do drive spiritedly on winding roads and do track days. I do rev match and heel/toe downshift, even simply slowing down to a stop sign at slow speeds. I've made a habit of it ever since I was 16, 9 years ago. Needless to say, the clutch does not see abuse. I don't need an octuplet disc clutch that holds 3000 ft/lbs of torque. Something simple and reliable, please
I even thought of going back to stock 
They will hold the power, as long as you're not abusive.
I took the car for a short drive to try and have a better understand of whats going on. And one thing I forgot to mention is the clutch pedal itself feels 100% the same that it always has. Still slightly added shift effort, anything over 3000rpm is complete lock out, doesn't matter which gear. Car still bogs when coming to a stop with the pedal depressed. It's now starting to have excessive clutch chatter in combination with the bogging when stopping. The TOB clip appears to be in place.
I think it's safe to say that it just needs a new clutch. Something is broken or worn.
What company clutch paints their pressure plates white? And what is a good recommended clutch for a car that will probably never see over 450whp? I hear over and over about lock out problems with ACT. I was looking at the Exedy Organic or the HD organic clutch. I DO NOT launch, I DO NOT drag race. I DO NOT flat shift. I will upshift birskly at redline, but the clutch doesn't take any abuse from it. I do drive spiritedly on winding roads and do track days. I do rev match and heel/toe downshift, even simply slowing down to a stop sign at slow speeds. I've made a habit of it ever since I was 16, 9 years ago. Needless to say, the clutch does not see abuse. I don't need an octuplet disc clutch that holds 3000 ft/lbs of torque. Something simple and reliable, please
I even thought of going back to stock They will hold the power, as long as you're not abusive.
Jul 28, 2011, 06:10 PM
#19
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How comes when I do a search on here for advice on which clutch to buy it seems like every single clutch sucks. There seem to be problems with everything, ACT, Exedy, Clutch Masters, SPEC.... they all apparently suck, except for the Exedy Twin disc, people seem to love them. I'm not about to spend almost $1500 on a clutch. I'm looking more like $500.
The Exedy Organic HD seems like a good choice for my application. Good price, and designed for exactly what I want, stock like clutch for moderate power, but everybody says they burn out real easy. Do they suck at driving or something? Some as little as 5000 miles. I don't think I could purposely destroy a clutch that fast.
The Exedy Organic HD seems like a good choice for my application. Good price, and designed for exactly what I want, stock like clutch for moderate power, but everybody says they burn out real easy. Do they suck at driving or something? Some as little as 5000 miles. I don't think I could purposely destroy a clutch that fast.
Aug 3, 2011, 03:49 PM
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Ok, so I bled the slave cylinder tonight, finally. Still no change. Something HAS to be wrong with the disc, or some other clutch component. Just need to figure out what to do. I need to pull the trans and find out what's going on. I can't pull the trans at home 1: because I hate working on my car and 2 there just aren't enough tools at home.
I work on cars for a living. I've pulled auto transmissions, done a couple clutch jobs, as a matter of fact, I'm trying to upsell a manual trans in a Civic right now due to input shaft bearing noise. All this with a lift (I'm spoiled). I can't pull the trans at work anyway because I'm not even working in my own shop right now. It caught on fire 6 weeks ago and I'm already in the way of the other tech's whose shop I'm working in, let alone trying to pull my trans on the side. I'm certainly FAR from an automotive genius, as you can probably tell. And when it comes to my car, ugh, I'd rather pay money to have it fixed
And that's my rant.
So somebody needs to fix this for me
I work on cars for a living. I've pulled auto transmissions, done a couple clutch jobs, as a matter of fact, I'm trying to upsell a manual trans in a Civic right now due to input shaft bearing noise. All this with a lift (I'm spoiled). I can't pull the trans at work anyway because I'm not even working in my own shop right now. It caught on fire 6 weeks ago and I'm already in the way of the other tech's whose shop I'm working in, let alone trying to pull my trans on the side. I'm certainly FAR from an automotive genius, as you can probably tell. And when it comes to my car, ugh, I'd rather pay money to have it fixed
And that's my rant.
So somebody needs to fix this for me
Last edited by MitsuJDM; Aug 3, 2011 at 03:51 PM.
Aug 4, 2011, 10:47 AM
#21
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Sounds like a sticky situation Rich, but I hope you get it sorted out. If you decide to do the clutch yourself and need an extra pair of hands, let me know!
Sep 9, 2011, 05:07 AM
#22
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2003 evo 1st gear lock out
I just got my 2003 evo two weeks ago. I noticed I got locked out of first gear trying to shift in at a stop. I have a ACT clutch and fly wheel. I noticed today down shifting when the RPM hits about 2k 2.5k to the next gear down. Then when in 2nd coming to a stop from 2k to about 1.5k 1k push the cluth in and it goes back into 1st nice. Hope this helps
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