MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I first noticed tonight that shifting into forth, I was locked out, at low RPM. Ignored it, then when coming up to an intersection I downshifted into third, and then downshifted into second and was locked out of second. This happens intermittently. On occasion when coming slowing to a stop in second gear, I push the clutch in and as the car comes to a stop, it starts to buck, as if the clutch is still engaged, and almost stalls, but it doesn't. So the clutch isn't disengaging, but why?

Also, it's starting to get excessive clutch chatter. This all started suddenly. I visually checked the slave and master cylinder for leakage and didn't see anything. I'm thinking maybe the clutch or TOB is bad. The TOB has always been noisy on decel and I've been waiting for it to break. Maybe it finally has?

I've been telling myself lately I really want an M3, but I'd miss the Evo so much. I love driving BMW's but owning one would suck. Maybe I need an Evo X.

Based on the info given, any suggestions?

batty200

iTrader: (3)

You probably need a clutch adjustment or you have a leak. Rarely the slave or master cylinders go bad but usually on newer cars it isnt the issue. I have seen on occasion a warped pressure plate or clutch disc cause issues once it is warmed up. My jetta has had a bad clutch for about 80k miles that makes it hard to get into first but it still holds so it stays. Cars has 250k on it so if it breaks it is no big deal. If it lasts as long as the car then awesome.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I forgot all about adjusting the pedal. Maybe because I've tried it before for others reasons and had little luck with it. I'll give it another try. I just hope I don't need a new clutch because I'm not in the mood or can afford to spend the money. Plus, currently, I have nowhere to do the install myself.

It's werid because I can still go from neutral into first without major issue. On occasion I have trouble getting into gear from neutral but it was never a big deal. I know my father had this problem from going to neutral to first with his clutch in his Evo. He replaced the clutch and problem solved.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Adjusted the pedal. If anything it's worse. I turned the rod clockwise the raise the engagement. Still same problems. I was at at about 2-3mph coming to a stop, tried to go into first gear and it grinded like hell.

I tried 1st gear and revved, it did not creep forward

I reached down and tried to move the slave cylinder by hand, it had very little movement. Can a slave cylinder be bad even though it's not leaking? I know it's opposite in thinking, but could adjusting my clutch pedal toward the floor make any difference? I know the further out the pedal is adjusted, the less movement in the slave there is.

I know it's not a synchro problem because when coming to a stop in second gear, the car bucks as if it's going to stall. Just as it would if you came to a stop with the clutch engaged. So it seems that the clutch isn't disengaging. But it's not consistent.

I find shifting especially difficult up shifting into 4th and downshifting into second. It feels like high RPM lock-out, but at 2500-3000rpm. Eventually it lets you in after the rpm drops.

I'm getting annoyed with this car. Found water on my floor after a hard rain. The OEM temp gauge has a mind of it's own. It has leak down on cylinder 4 out the intake valves, though has no effect on performance, now this stupid clutch problem.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

No more help?

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

After doing some research and talking to some knowledgeable friends of mine, I'm thinking one of the springs in the disc may have come out. Seems this is a common problem.

Vivid Racing

iTrader: (98)

Try bleeding the clutch. It could also be the slave or master cylinder.

Does it act up when it's hot? cold? neither? both?

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

It just started to do this. Temp doesn't matter.

The car is drivable, but just much increased effort to shift, and/or grinds. And just for information's sake, it's NOT the trans or synchros. Though the trans could use a rebuild, I'm certain this is a clutch related issue.

My first thought was the slave or master, but they're not leaking. I'll give it a try bleeding the slave.

loudspool

I had a similar problem last year. My mechanic had my clutch readjusted and the problem went away.

newimportowner

iTrader: (2)

Its your counterweighted shifter under the hood. holes are way bigger then the bolt and it wont go in to gear. I had the exact same thing with 2nd and 4th. losen the shifter under the hood with the weighted thing on it, shift through the gears until you can make them all. have a friend tighten them up as your doing it. your done.

evascst

can you explain this in a bit more detail? im having a similar problem and have tried everything under the sun. just had my clutch replaced and im locked out of everygear unless i blip the gas.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Shift linkage was one of the first things I checked. All looks to be working just fine. The car goes through the gears just fine when the car is stopped and engine is off. It's only while moving I have problems. I occasional have a hard time selecting a gear from neutral, but it's been like that for 2 years. My old Evo did the same thing. This whole hard to shift thing is new.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

THAT sounds like a trans problem. But who knows, I certainly could be wrong. Cars are weird. After all, rev matching and double clutch is based around trans without sychro's. You should rev match anyway. Double clutching is useless in modern transmissions.

I've had a bit of an issue with my 4th gear sychro not wanting to do it's job at high RPM's, but I don't think this new problem and that are related. I am probably going to send my trans out for a Shep rebuild. Just a basic "stage 1" or whatever it's called.

05blue8

iTrader: (28)

Did you properly adjust your clutch pedal according to a how to somewhere or just adjust it?

You can definitely make clutch issues much worse by adjusting your pedal without knowing how.

Did you try to push your shift fork back into the slave cylinder to make sure it would push back?

Did you watch the reservoir level rise/fall when you did the step above?

Did you pull the salve cylinder boot back to make sure the fluid isn't kept in by the boot?

That boot is air tight, I guarantee you it can fill up with fluid and you'd never know it if you didn't pull it back. Follow this to make sure your clutch is PROPERLY adjusted -

http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...-tech-articles

Also as you're aware, if you keep that grinding stuff up you'll be changing your post to read it IS a trans issue now as you're grinding down the synchros.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I'll try some of the stuff you mentioned. If the trans comes out for a clutch, it's going out for a rebuild regardless. I haven't been driving it.

Thanks for the tips