Skylineracer

iTrader: (21)

this

so my question now since i have the same noise is what do i do to fix it?

Skylineracer

iTrader: (21)

Bump

Skylineracer

iTrader: (21)

well solved my whine, lifted to change fluid and found out it was leaking just i never noticed because it was very slow apparently and my driveway has grass down the middle. so i filled it with redline now instead of amsoil and tada whine is almost completely gone. i figure it may go away completely as the fluid gets around because it got quieter as i drove it more. the good news was that the magnet had only very fine metal particles and not a lot of it either.

GregM

iTrader: (1)

Mines the opposite, quiet when on power and a whine when off power.

Skylineracer

iTrader: (21)

Update still whining but not as loud. Should I get it rebuilt?

gray9evo

iTrader: (1)

I feel there are still no definitive answers on this. Some people say it has to be the rear diff because it only whines under load. Other people say their bad t-case started off only whining on accel and then progresses to whining louder and all the time on both accel and decel.

So how do you know whether your whine is coming from the rear diff or transfer case? And if it is the rear diff, can someone who fixed the problem pitch in on what'd they do/how much did it cost?

EvoTurboTurk

I haven't got whine on my evo 7 jdm, only problem I'm getting atm is too much play from the diff! What can we do to fix that?

leba

Hi everybody, back to the topic..
I had exactly same noise on my E7 as in the video(from bigfoot1612). When the noise started, I got both diffs checked by some mechanic, changed almost all bearings, even the ones on prop. shaft, but no change .

After 2 years and cca 30t. miles, the sound steadily worsened and the play (difference between on light throttle and no throttle) got bigger, I could even hear some clunking noise (later realized it was teeth contacting - crown wheel/pinion..)

So I finally decided to check the Transfer case again and ohh, it was like gilette!
The shop that fixed my T-Case informed, the crown wheel and pinion has certain "protective surface" that even during first check was already worn off (I showed them the pictures from the mechanic later) and caused the rattling.. So I was just cutting and cutting the crown wheel and pinion to death.

As I was changing the TF oil myself (of course I used the best -redline 80W-140), I did not evever notice the oil contains the "silver mud", you can realize when spilled into larger dish (otimally you can look thru..) and after some time you can see the sediment - mud.

Now with almost new cw/pinion, the sound have not gone completely, but is 400% better - quieter, keep in mind the optimal setting of cw/pinion is tuned in factory to be almost unhearable, so setting inside TF also takes noticable part..

And one more thing, I did not do this yet, but I have been also informed you can look onto the teeth from below, when taking of the rectangular cover from the diff and could examine the cw/pinion yourself. Even almost unnoticable wear could cause noise and rapid wear..

Hope this helped to anybody, as I really spent -a lot- of time and money solving this issue!

Cheers
-leba-

EvoTurboTurk

I'm getting whine on the rear diff now, I believe there isn't any option. Can't rebuild it....

leba

On AYC rear diff, you have 2 oil reservoars in it, check -both- as one is for Diff oil (e.g. Castrol SAF-XJ) and second for transmission part/torque transfer mechanism part (e.g. Mistubishi ATF DiaQueen) - the same that goes to rear boot reservoar (for AYC pump).
In E7 Workshop manual on page 27B-17.
My two cents..