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No Fuel Pump Prime/No Tach Signal

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Old Aug 4, 2011, 09:50 AM
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No Fuel Pump Prime/No Tach Signal

Just got done with a 2.3 swap, along with a Shep built 6 speed on my buddies IX MR. Basically took out the engine and trans and replaced everything, and swapped the head over to the new shortblock, along with new cams, and replaced the Walboro 255 with a new DW pump. Went to start it yesterday and had no fuel pump prime and no tach signal.

So far I've verified

-All fuses are good.
-Timing is all in sync.
-No DTC's
-Tried the Walboro 255 that came out of the car that worked.

Due to where I'm working on it, I don't have much help to check for voltage at the pump, and I can't do key on/off by myself while checking voltage at the pump. But I did check resistance of the sending unit wiring and it all checked out.

I'm under the assumption that the cam phasers are in sync with the cam position sensors, and the crank signal is good, as I haven't thrown any DTC's from trying to crank the car over when checking for tach signal.

I've called MAP a few times now and they've been very helpful. Just figure I'd throw this out there to try and get a few more minds on this to see if anyone had any ideas.

Thanks for any advice!
Old Aug 5, 2011, 07:49 AM
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Going to be looking at a few things today. I'll update this thread if I figure it out.
Old Aug 5, 2011, 09:21 PM
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bump
Old Aug 5, 2011, 10:04 PM
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bad crank sensor (no rpm) and bad exhaust cam sensor (no fuel pump). They wont always throw codes.
Old Aug 6, 2011, 06:37 AM
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Check that your speed sensor in the tranny (it's below the shifter cables) is connected and working properly. I think this will throw a code though if it's not.
Old Aug 9, 2011, 11:45 AM
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So I've checked for 5v reference and continuity to ground on both the exhaust cam sensor and crank sensor, and have all of that. And I'm not sure if its a feasible way to test the sensors, but I turned the engine over by hand and tested resistance on both sensors at different points in the reluctor wheel and didn't have any change in resistance on either sensor. Like I said, don't know if thats the best way to test it, but I don't have a scope handy.

And I'm assuming that the MFI relay, which is in common with both circuits is good since I'm seeing 12 volts with the key on. Also, either way, does anyone know where the MFI relay is located on a IX?

Thanks again for any help. This thing is really starting to get frusterating, especially since it has this new, very capable powerplant, and I can't make any use of it yet
Old Aug 9, 2011, 11:46 AM
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Also, I did check the transmission connections, along with every other plug and ground on the engine. Everything is good.
Old Aug 10, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
bad crank sensor (no rpm) and bad exhaust cam sensor (no fuel pump). They wont always throw codes.
So far I've verified voltage and return to and from both of them, along with 12v from the MFI relay. Must mean the intake cam sensor is bad too, since I swapped the two back and forth. I don't understand how all of those sensors could have taken a dump just from being swapped from one engine to another.

Last edited by Notch; Aug 10, 2011 at 08:14 AM.
Old Aug 10, 2011, 08:16 AM
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one of my wires for the crank sensor to the ecu went bad or should i say had a short. same porblem u had. check the wires all the way back to the ecu
Old Aug 10, 2011, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by CWiLL
one of my wires for the crank sensor to the ecu went bad or should i say had a short. same porblem u had. check the wires all the way back to the ecu
I actually ran continuity tests on both cam sensors and the crank sensors to the computer and everything is fine. The MFI relay is supplying 12 volts so I assume that circuit is good. Like I said, I can't believe that all 3 sensors would go out at the same time just from swapping them between engines.
Old Aug 11, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Feel free to keep the ideas coming.

At this point I have a couple options.

1. Throw a new cam sensor and new crank sensor in the car. It will absolutely rule out the sensors being bad. The con is obviously the price.

2. Throw car together to make it roll and tow it 10 miles to my work so I can plug in the Snap On Versus scanner and check out the OBDII data stream for crank and cam sensor output. Con is the hassle of bringing it there and back.

3. Last option is order Evoscan and cable and try to do the same thing as #2 with it. Con is that my buddy really has no use for Evoscan software/hardware after I use it for this purpose.

So lets here some suggestions.
Old Aug 12, 2011, 08:33 AM
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Did you put the crank trigger plate in backwards?

Aaron
Old Aug 12, 2011, 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
Did you put the crank trigger plate in backwards?

Aaron
That was one thing that someone suggested to me also, so I thought no harm to check, and it absolutely is installed correctly.

I double checked the timing belt marks again today for the hell of it, everything is good. I reverified the continuity to the computer, also good. I even tried installing the cam phasers in different positions with the thought that maybe I installed them wrong (I went off of the AllData diagrams) and still nothing.

I'm thinking at this point about ordering EvoScan so I can sit down and see what the computer is seeing. The problem is that I'm on a tight deadline to get this done, as I was hoping to drive it out to Colorado (from Minnesota) at the beginning of next month.

So until EvoScan gets here, keep the ideas coming everyone, I can use as much help as I can get
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