fp red vs 5758??
#2
I got a T4 1.06 GTX3076R (should be of equivalent flow of your turbo) but without twinscroll, and ball bearings you're better off with the red. If you do get the 1.06 t4, then its a whole diffirent BALL game)
#7
personally i still think that the DIVEDED T4 housing is THE BEST match for the gtx3076r, and that its far better matched than a bolt-on red. The gtx would bottleneck far later (on both the exhaust and intake).... and has better aero, and quad ball bearings.
Its true that the real results from a bolt-on action without a proper tune, or tuned AT LOW BOOST aka WASTED turbine CAPACITY and therefore compromised area under the curve you might get mixed results and therefore somewhat misleading info...
What really matters is what boost you want to run and how far you're pushing your car/hardware. As I said, if you're just freelancing than the something like a divided gtx will work against you, BUT once you'll reach the bottleneck of that same GTX, you'll BE REAL HAPPY you dont have a bottlenecked journal bearing turbo for the same $$$
Its true that the real results from a bolt-on action without a proper tune, or tuned AT LOW BOOST aka WASTED turbine CAPACITY and therefore compromised area under the curve you might get mixed results and therefore somewhat misleading info...
What really matters is what boost you want to run and how far you're pushing your car/hardware. As I said, if you're just freelancing than the something like a divided gtx will work against you, BUT once you'll reach the bottleneck of that same GTX, you'll BE REAL HAPPY you dont have a bottlenecked journal bearing turbo for the same $$$
Last edited by STi*guy.kiev; Aug 14, 2011 at 01:25 PM.
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#9
I hate to bring an old thread back but better than creating a new one i guess. Im gonna do a simple build for around 450whp wanna keep block stock and safe. Gonna do head studs of course, injectors and maybe a mani already have an ETS ic kit. That being said yes im trying to stay away from cams i know with cams goal is super easy to reach but i just wanna do new charger. It will be on 93 pump. So question is which is best turbo to get me there with a decent quick spool and power not flatting out at higher rpm. Looking into the fp red or green, 5758, or 5557. I just hate the price of the bb fp turbos but if they are great as everybody states then id shell out the cash
#11
There are only two advantages I see with a stock appearing turbo. Minimal turbo lag, and the ability to just bolt it on. It seems like very little emphasis is given to the turbine side.
My personal opinion is that with a larger framed turbo with a proper tune it should be safer on a stock block, and plenty fun. You may experience more lag, but I would bet that the because of the increased exhaust flow your egt's would be lower along with the exhaust gas pressure(pistons and exhaust valves happier) and your torque curve will be lower to the right which would most likely add to longevity. The truth of the matter is that most of us don't need 450lbft/450 hp and 400lbft/500hp pulls a hell of a lot harder.
Another thing to point out is what is the car for? Are you into road racing or autocross, or do you prefer drag racing. It is nice at times to have that quick spool, but quick spool is not without sacrifice. It is rare to see any of the stock framed turbo's hold constant boost from spool to redline without some sort of boost control manipulation.
I have been in both high hp stock frame turbo cars and 35r based cars. I can tell you that lag is not that noticeable on a bigger turbo car given a properly built turbo system and a good tune. And to note: a 35R is a bit bigger than a 5558 or a 5858. Hope this helps.
My personal opinion is that with a larger framed turbo with a proper tune it should be safer on a stock block, and plenty fun. You may experience more lag, but I would bet that the because of the increased exhaust flow your egt's would be lower along with the exhaust gas pressure(pistons and exhaust valves happier) and your torque curve will be lower to the right which would most likely add to longevity. The truth of the matter is that most of us don't need 450lbft/450 hp and 400lbft/500hp pulls a hell of a lot harder.
Another thing to point out is what is the car for? Are you into road racing or autocross, or do you prefer drag racing. It is nice at times to have that quick spool, but quick spool is not without sacrifice. It is rare to see any of the stock framed turbo's hold constant boost from spool to redline without some sort of boost control manipulation.
I have been in both high hp stock frame turbo cars and 35r based cars. I can tell you that lag is not that noticeable on a bigger turbo car given a properly built turbo system and a good tune. And to note: a 35R is a bit bigger than a 5558 or a 5858. Hope this helps.
#12
unless its a full track car, stay with the red, besides with a 5857 youll need a full kit to make it work, now I dont have experience with this kit, but wont this kit require a half radiator like some of the bigger size turbo kits out there? Personally I like my red for dd style driving. To me spool is a matter of perception, I like the quick hit and pulls good to redline, over the delayed spool up and hard hit. Thats just me
#13
ok thanks for your input.
Ya Jorge i see what you mean. Im just trying to get best of both worlds and my car wont be dragged just a few track events a year is all besides that just my "fun" car. I thought my buddy said precision makes a bolt up 5758 could be wrong though. I just didn't wanna have to much lag with the precision since im going all stock on motor still. Basically want the most useful powerband for some road course events and i hate that the stock turbo lays down so bad when there is about 1000-1500 more rpms to go just seems like a waste of rpm
Ya Jorge i see what you mean. Im just trying to get best of both worlds and my car wont be dragged just a few track events a year is all besides that just my "fun" car. I thought my buddy said precision makes a bolt up 5758 could be wrong though. I just didn't wanna have to much lag with the precision since im going all stock on motor still. Basically want the most useful powerband for some road course events and i hate that the stock turbo lays down so bad when there is about 1000-1500 more rpms to go just seems like a waste of rpm
#14
So generally speaking at a given boost level the cams are designed to keep making decent power to redline. Well, the reason the cars with stock turbo and cams feel so dead is because the turbo can't keep up. That's why you'll have a spike in the beginning and it will taper off. The fact of the matter is that the turbo was designed to be run at stock boost levels. Some tuners can fight the boost taper using electronic boost control. I know that is one of the things that tscompusa does, but you can only fight it to an extent. I would say that your best bet is maybe try to find a used red and see if it fits your needs and pleases you. The good thing is that no one is ever 100% completely happy with there set up, so parts go up for sale all the time. Good luck!