Good discussion about prolonging race motors
#17
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I can't speak from personal experience, but the differences would be less than you might expect. Wider ring gaps, than even an extremely high HP drag engine would be used for heat management, maybe a little tighter bearing clearances if its going to be revved higher for improved oiling if it isn't dry-sumped. way wider clearances if it is dry sumped to take advantage of the generally much larger oil pump. Lighter rotating assembly parts could be advantageous if power permits...
The tuning is very different, and your oil cooler and radiator are going to have to be much bigger.
If anybody who's ever actually built and raced on a road course want to chime in I'd love to hear also.
The tuning is very different, and your oil cooler and radiator are going to have to be much bigger.
If anybody who's ever actually built and raced on a road course want to chime in I'd love to hear also.
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Keeping this thread alive.....My SBR shortblock has over 27k miles on it (all within a year's time haha) and has wider bearing clearances/race bearings, and I'm assuming much bigger ring end gaps because it does burn alot of oil but I'm on the highway at a constant 3k-3700k rpm for long periods of time. Either way I'm expecting many more miles to go, granted I don't take it to the track every weekend but high mileage is high mileage for a "loose engine making alot of power/boost
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generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
#20
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generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
#21
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generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
I have a Evo 7 mainly for road racing and I built it´s engine with 0,1mm (0,004") piston to wall clearance and OEM clearances on all bearings. It if fails I´ll let you guys know. Until now it´s not burning oil, starts at the first try and revs tight. Not a single noise nor phantom knock.
#22
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I think the drag strip guys build looser engines due the very high output.
I have a Evo 7 mainly for road racing and I built it´s engine with 0,1mm (0,004") piston to wall clearance and OEM clearances on all bearings. It if fails I´ll let you guys know. Until now it´s not burning oil, starts at the first try and revs tight. Not a single noise nor phantom knock.
I have a Evo 7 mainly for road racing and I built it´s engine with 0,1mm (0,004") piston to wall clearance and OEM clearances on all bearings. It if fails I´ll let you guys know. Until now it´s not burning oil, starts at the first try and revs tight. Not a single noise nor phantom knock.
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Does this apply to all built blocks? I daily my car and wanted to reach around 450-550 whp (Dynojet).was thinking of a 2.0 or 2.3l build .I would race maybe 3 times a year until the good track is built(road course) then race more but for now it would be a DD.
#24
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generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
generally I agree with all you sad..
But to make this topic more useful could anyone suggest specific engine specs for a purpose built engine?
(e.g. clearances, parts used for a certain power or rev range, or build type like street/drag/track, how long the engine is/was running)..
Please without theories or heard stories, just practice.
i have heard on some built motors going over 80k (buschur) and that sounds very promising.
i would believe that running tighter tolerances on a motor would result in more ring consumption if you would be dailying the car. meaning cold starts, i have heard to counteract this is a block heater. ovcourse it wont stop rings getting worn but it might help.
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I wanted to basically find out how to prolong a daily driver/built block evo.
i have heard on some built motors going over 80k (buschur) and that sounds very promising.
i would believe that running tighter tolerances on a motor would result in more ring consumption if you would be dailying the car. meaning cold starts, i have heard to counteract this is a block heater. ovcourse it wont stop rings getting worn but it might help.
i have heard on some built motors going over 80k (buschur) and that sounds very promising.
i would believe that running tighter tolerances on a motor would result in more ring consumption if you would be dailying the car. meaning cold starts, i have heard to counteract this is a block heater. ovcourse it wont stop rings getting worn but it might help.
Race bearings are made of softer materials in order to resist spinning under high loads. using factory bearings with wider clearances would be a good step in the direction of increasing longevity.
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Race engines consume oil through the rings because they have a bigger end gap. shrinking that gap would make that stop, but it would make the engine less able to tolerate high power, while doing nothing to prevent wear. Ring wear probably will not be what kills any engine.
Race bearings are made of softer materials in order to resist spinning under high loads. using factory bearings with wider clearances would be a good step in the direction of increasing longevity.
Race bearings are made of softer materials in order to resist spinning under high loads. using factory bearings with wider clearances would be a good step in the direction of increasing longevity.
so basically the more horsepower you push the faster the bearings wear. got it
#27
How long do you think my buschur 2.1 4g64/63 stage 3 head build would last. I go to the track maybe twice a year and will be running 40psi of boost and its a dd and i do some street racing. Im not real hard on the car and i dont race anything at the light lol.
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