MAF Sensor Honeycomb Replacement
Jan 14, 2012, 06:22 AM
#16
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yes, you can't run the stock rubber intake tube on a HTA 3586 @ 42psi 
this is what I run with a 3" to 4" coupler on the turbo. http://www.mellonracing.com/index.ph...products_id=40
this is what I run with a 3" to 4" coupler on the turbo. http://www.mellonracing.com/index.ph...products_id=40
Feb 5, 2012, 08:19 AM
#18
I've been removing the honeycomb since my 3000GT/Stealth days in the mid 90's.
The only reason yo should do this is if you're on something running 30+psi of boost. The honeycomb can become twisted or bent and sucked into the turbo.
Facts:
1) It does not help airflow to remove it.
2) It does not make more power.
3) Load will go lower which will affect AFR and Timing.
4) You must re-tune when you do this mod
5) I've had zero adverse affects from doing this mod
The only reason yo should do this is if you're on something running 30+psi of boost. The honeycomb can become twisted or bent and sucked into the turbo.
Facts:
1) It does not help airflow to remove it.
2) It does not make more power.
3) Load will go lower which will affect AFR and Timing.
4) You must re-tune when you do this mod
5) I've had zero adverse affects from doing this mod
EDIT: I read a bunch more threads, and it appears that the cuplrit could be aftermarket intake pipes pointing the DV discharge towards the MAF screen. The strong blast of a DV discharge over a small portion of the screen is thought to deform it and then subsequent WOT can suck it in.
Last edited by mrfred; Feb 5, 2012 at 08:39 AM.
Feb 5, 2012, 11:38 AM
#19
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The honeycomb is there to smooth out the airflow before it goes over the sensor.....less turbulent airflow = more accurate reading...but yes obviously will reduce the airflow also. I forget how our screens look but I know on the C5 vettes (and other GM's with the same sensor) they have a deep honeycomb, where as the one on my older foxbody mustang is just a screen. Obviously the honeycomb style will smooth out the airflow much better that just a screen.
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