MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

So I just had my clutch replaced. Pciked it up today, happier than ever. It's running great, been taking my time breaking it in today. I seriously highly doubt this problem has anything to do with the clutch. Actually I'm 100% sure it doesn't.

I noticed when coming to stop, If I'm not super quick the push the clutch in when rolling to a stop and my RPM drops below 700-800ish and stumbles just a bit, the oil light will flash on and very quickly go off once I push the clutch to prevent the car from stalling. Clutch is working flawlessly. Not a complaint about it. But it's very coincidental that this randomly start happening now. Again, not blaming the clutch install.

Sometimes it'll flicker for like a quarter or a second and be hardly noticeable. Others, it will come on for maybe half a second, full brightness, but again, go off as soon as I step on the clutch. Now of course I don't always go around bogging my engine, so this shouldn't really be a concern. It's obvious that oil pressure is dropping when the engine bogs slightly, but this has never happened before until today during the occasional engine bog when slowing down.

I've read the other threads about the sensor going bad or a bad connector connection. It flickers on and off at idle. This isn't at idle. At idle it's fine. When driving, it's fine. The car isn't showing any signs of oil starvation, noises, anything. Only when slowing to a stop, if I don't make it to the clutch fast enough, and the engine bogs slightly, it flashes on, push the clutch, bring it back to idle, it was fine. I know I'm repeating myself I thought at first it was the dash warning lights coming on, as it would when you'd stall. But it's only the oil pressure light.

I made sure the connector had a good connection, but it seems the sensor issue is more a concern with the flickering at idle. I'm afraid I might be catching the start of an oil pump failure. I do have an oil leak around the oil filter housing and oil pan gasket. It's hard to tell exactly where it's coming from, but it's been like that for years.

AndyCT9W

Do any other lights come on?

In the past I've come very close to stalling but the engine kicks back in to life. The oil and battery lights come on for a fraction, like the car has the key in the on position but is not running.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I mentioned that. That's what I thought was happening until I realized it was only the oil pressure light. Now, If I go out and drive it and try to make it happen, it does it probably 50% of the time.

I did more searching here on the forum and found one thread when a guy had what seems to be an extremely similar problem to mine. He replaced his sensor and claims it was fixed. Good enough, I can try that... I just fear that it's more serious. I just spent a lot of money fixing my clutch, now this.

gymnasty

iTrader: (6)

Could be the oil pressure sender. Go to a local parts store and tell them you need an oil pressure sender for your car. It cost less than 8 bucks. Its located on the back of your block under the intake manifold. It is round and has ridges around the body. Easy as pie to to change. You don't even have to drain the oil out of the engine. When you remove the sensor a very little amount of oil will come from the hole. thank me later!

AndyCT9W

Sorry, I missed that part. I have seen a couple threads here that have been solved by replacing the sensor.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

I will change the sensor probably tomorrow. I'm going to be out of state all day today. Still dreading it being an oil pump problem.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

This is when coming to a stop, putting the clutch in late.
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/716/puz.mp4/

And this, you can see if I put the clutch in soon enough, as I would normally, it's fine, though if I bog on a start, which I did purposely in this video, it does in then as well
http://imageshack.us/clip/my-videos/856/5bit.mp4/


I hate to say it, but it tends to do this after the car has been warm for a while. Makes me think since the oil is thinner at higher temps, it's a real concern, not just a sensor. Though, heat can effect electrical components as well. I don't know, it can go either way, I've read about the same symptoms and it being fixed by either a sensor, or the the oil pump being bad.

Idle, normal driving it's fine. I haven't gone WOT because the clutch only has 60 miles on it.

Rstn-All-4

Like gymnasty said start with the sensor first. Knock out the cheap stuff, then start worrying about the expensive things. 9 out of 10 times its going to be a faulty sensor. More common than you would suspect.

gymnasty

iTrader: (6)

+1

mithrandir7533

iTrader: (1)

What weight oil are you using? Are you running a stock engine? When your oil light comes on it means your oil pressure is to low. I only started having this problem after I rebuilt my engine. I occasionally had this problem after a track session when it's really hot. Oil would thin out and would not have enough pressure. At idle the light would come on and would go off if I revved the engine. It would go away once the car cooled down. I now use 20w-50 and don't have any problems.

MitsuJDM

iTrader: (6)

10w30, stock engine (about 48k) and yes, I know that's what it means, hence the concern

I did however, go to Advance Auto Parts and buy an oil pressure switch. Figured, what the hell, it's cheap, relatively easy to replace and seems to be a common issue. I installed it with absolutely no confidence that it would fix the problem, I was sure I'd need a new oil pump. Kinda like when I bled my slave cylinder and adjusted my clutch pedal hoping it'd solve the issue I was having with my clutch. But, I must have lucked out. The new oil pressure switch seems to have done the trick. No more oil light, even when I purposely come close to stalling.

I put 40 miles on the car, making a total of 102.8 miles so far on the new clutch making on 397.2 miles to go before I can have fun! So during that 40 miles, it had plenty of time to get to operating temp. So far it's working out, we'll see how it goes from here. Thanks guys

johnturbotron

iTrader: (4)

I had this issue with my 2004 Evo VIII and the new sender took care of the problem as well.