unihappytime

This "Flintstone" method..? I guess that involves dinosaurs and possibly Wilma??

sparky

iTrader: (1)

Where did you read that he has an MBC? He mentions having a GREDDY electronic boost controller(see posts 7 & 10, this thread). GREDDY EBC's, such as the PROFEC B SPEC2, work with their own specific boost control solenoid.

At any rate, I agree with you that the easiest thing would be for the OP to get a manual boost controller.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

Au contraire, the Flintstone method(aka "The Barney Method") is not in the least bit, off topic. It's just that, as a practical matter, I didn't want to bore everyone with explanatory detail if the OP has no interest in Barney Rubble's boost control methods.

In fact, Barney Rubble's techniques, although primitive, have proven to be quite effective in eliminating certain boost control issues. Whether, you choose to believe this or not is totally up to you. However, I for one am convinced that Mr. Rubble's methodology stands on its own merits and is therefore most certainly not OT!

unihappytime

I was talking about my post being off topic

In fact I would like to know more about it.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

To the OP....Is your car fitted with a boost gauge? Or are you relying on the digital readout of your GREDDY EBC. You are gonna need a dedicated boost gauge if you remove your EBC.

Evo TME

im even more lost now that when i posted my question

i have removed my Electronic boost controller and ran a hose from the turbo direct to the actuator.....i do have a AEM boost gauge installed which im using now to read my boost since i no longer have the EBC readout.....


i already have my OEM vacuum lines with the T connections and everything but i still kind find the solenoid

i guess i would need to go to the dealer for some help or find a dude that has an Evo VI to ask

Evo TME

i just went through the Evo VI manual trying to find something about the location of the boost solenoid, unfortunately i could find anything helpful but what i did find out is the below

F WASTE GATE ACTUATOR OPERATION CHECK
Using a tester, apply a pressure of approx. 100.0 kPa (12.5 PSI) to
the actuator and make sure that the rod moves.
Caution
Do not apply a pressure of more than 113.3 kPa to the
actuator. Otherwise, diaphragm may be damaged. Never
attempt to adjust the waste gate valve.


since i have been hitting around 28psi which is way more than the 100kpa limit is there a chance that i messed up my actuator and i just need to get an upgraded one that can handle higher boost????

sparky

iTrader: (1)

I don't know about your generation of Evo, but on the VIII's and IX's the boost control solenoid is located under the air filter box. You'd need to remove the bottom of the air box to access it.

Evo TME

gooood news i finally found the little solenoid bastard....its not hooked up so re did it as per the stock piping and i still over boost....i think its cuz i killed my actuator...will fit a new actuator that can handle higher boost levels and hopefully it solves my problem

novem

iTrader: (2)

Ya sparky, I thought he said MBC..my bad. For the OP, get a MBC and turn down the boost..what octane gas are you using over there?

N

sparky

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=Evo TME;9635545]gooood news i finally found the little solenoid bastard....its not hooked up so re did it as per the stock piping and i still over boost....i think its cuz i killed my actuator.../QUOTE]

Did you install a factory boost hose assembly? These contain two little "pills", or orifices without which you're likely to continue over boosting when using the factory boost control solenoid. If you just installed the BCS and regular hose without the pills you are not gonna be able to control boost as per factory spec.

Evo TME

i have already checked in regards to the "pills" and evo VI TME's do not have these pills in the piping...the car is running better now and i already did an actuator pressure test and found out that the actuator is leaking big time....im planning to buy the Forge actuator instead of the oem replacement and see how it goes


any thought in regards to the Forge actuator?? good choice??bad??? other recommendations???

sparky

iTrader: (1)

IMO, the Forge WGA is priced a bit high for what you get. I mean it looks nice. But the Forced Performance 18 PSI actuator costs about half as much as the Forge Racing unit.

Whichever you decide to get, make sure to specify that you want a WGA for the VIII(in your case VI) turbo. The actuators for the IX vs the VIII turbo are not interchangeable.

Evo TME

cool man thanks for the very helpful tip...i just saw the FP actuator and im considering buying it due to the good price like u mentioned...