Short Runner T4 TS GTX3076R Experiment
Jan 26, 2012, 01:12 PM
#166
Ahh i found the humps! not very bad at all, just a few mins should smoooth that out. Did you happen to notice that the corners of the port on the manifold were ever so so slightly larger than the gasket. Like a .5mm or so. Will that make a difference? Should I modify the gasket for that? or just let it rip!?
Jan 26, 2012, 04:36 PM
#167
^
Your talking 0.020", which is incredibly minor. On my RB26 head I had it pinned for the intake manifold so it aligned exactly. I then had it ported so the transition was flawless no matter how many times it was removed/installed.
For my street car I am not so detail focused and my Skunk intake likely had the same .020" difference. Because the gasket is no smaller than the ports in the head I don't see a reason to modify. I would just 'let it rip.'
Your talking 0.020", which is incredibly minor. On my RB26 head I had it pinned for the intake manifold so it aligned exactly. I then had it ported so the transition was flawless no matter how many times it was removed/installed.
For my street car I am not so detail focused and my Skunk intake likely had the same .020" difference. Because the gasket is no smaller than the ports in the head I don't see a reason to modify. I would just 'let it rip.'
Feb 11, 2012, 07:28 PM
#169
Feb 12, 2012, 06:28 AM
#170
Although I don't have pics I should at least update what I have done. I took a week and performed the clutch swap with the ACT 6-puck and HD Pressure plate. I also went with the RRE NO NAME 10.7lb flywheel. This is a nice unit and from my understanding is the ACT Superlite unit without the logo.
In prepping for the clutch install I was sensitive to the posts of high rpm lockout. A few things I did where to completely clean the inside of the bell housing with Simple Green and brake cleaner. I also cleaned the splines with a SS wire brush to remove the surface rust. I then used some white lithium grease to lightly coat the splined shaft. By moving the clutch disc across the splines you can remove all the excess grease. Everything else is straight forward...new TO bearing, grease metal-metal contacts and I went with 3 wave springs.
The clutch pedal feels identical to stock and I was surprised the clutch does not chatter during engagement. Its definitely more on/off than the stock clutch and will take some getting used to. I have jammed the gears a few times and had no problem shifting at 8Krpm. I also upgraded to the delron shift bushings and the clutch fork stop from STM.
The other mod I performed was to upgrade to the Unorthodox pulley set. I know people don't advise removing the stock balancer, but all post I read only provide anecdotal stories and no actual failures attributed. I also have a buddy local that has been running this unit for ~30K miles with no issues. Only time will tell
In prepping for the clutch install I was sensitive to the posts of high rpm lockout. A few things I did where to completely clean the inside of the bell housing with Simple Green and brake cleaner. I also cleaned the splines with a SS wire brush to remove the surface rust. I then used some white lithium grease to lightly coat the splined shaft. By moving the clutch disc across the splines you can remove all the excess grease. Everything else is straight forward...new TO bearing, grease metal-metal contacts and I went with 3 wave springs.
The clutch pedal feels identical to stock and I was surprised the clutch does not chatter during engagement. Its definitely more on/off than the stock clutch and will take some getting used to. I have jammed the gears a few times and had no problem shifting at 8Krpm. I also upgraded to the delron shift bushings and the clutch fork stop from STM.
The other mod I performed was to upgrade to the Unorthodox pulley set. I know people don't advise removing the stock balancer, but all post I read only provide anecdotal stories and no actual failures attributed. I also have a buddy local that has been running this unit for ~30K miles with no issues. Only time will tell
Mar 8, 2012, 03:29 PM
#171
UPDATE:
I am ditching the SUCOP in favor of the DELCO D514A coils used on the Corvette C6, Z06 & ZR1 Corvette.
I have also upgraded from the GTX3076r to the new GTX3576r, which is just a turbine wheel upgrade. I hope to have it installed soon so look for comparative results this weekend.
I am ditching the SUCOP in favor of the DELCO D514A coils used on the Corvette C6, Z06 & ZR1 Corvette.
I have also upgraded from the GTX3076r to the new GTX3576r, which is just a turbine wheel upgrade. I hope to have it installed soon so look for comparative results this weekend.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Mar 9, 2012 at 06:57 AM.
Mar 9, 2012, 06:07 AM
#175
Ive always wondered about the vette coils. my dad uses them on his 35'r powered snowmobile trapping 180mph in the 1320. Are you going with a easy COP wiring like it was, or are you going to do a cdi? Ive seen a lot of people talk about the 6.0l ones, with the heat sink on them.
Mar 9, 2012, 11:04 AM
#176
I removed the GTX3076r and the GTX3576r is bolted to the manifold and ready for install in the morning. It might be hard to tell, but the GT3576r has a significantly larger turbine wheel. If anyone is interested, I am shipping the GTX3076r to my turbo guy to have him clean the turbo so I can put it up for sale. It has less than 3K miles, in good shape, and will be priced to move.
Mar 9, 2012, 12:22 PM
#177
Sorry for the thread highjack!
I've been using these coils for a while now, they are very cheap to buy.
The "yukon" coils are the best, and they both make max spark @ 5ms dwell time.
I've actually had problems with the spark jumping out of the rubber boots at the coil end. I need to layer them over with heatshrink or something.
Very interested to see how the GTX3576 works!
Cheers, Mike
I've been using these coils for a while now, they are very cheap to buy.
The "yukon" coils are the best, and they both make max spark @ 5ms dwell time.
I've actually had problems with the spark jumping out of the rubber boots at the coil end. I need to layer them over with heatshrink or something.
Very interested to see how the GTX3576 works!
Cheers, Mike
Mar 9, 2012, 01:57 PM
#179
Sorry for the thread highjack!
I've been using these coils for a while now, they are very cheap to buy.
The "yukon" coils are the best, and they both make max spark @ 5ms dwell time.
I've actually had problems with the spark jumping out of the rubber boots at the coil end. I need to layer them over with heatshrink or something.
Very interested to see how the GTX3576 works!
Cheers, Mike
I've been using these coils for a while now, they are very cheap to buy.
The "yukon" coils are the best, and they both make max spark @ 5ms dwell time.
I've actually had problems with the spark jumping out of the rubber boots at the coil end. I need to layer them over with heatshrink or something.
Very interested to see how the GTX3576 works!
Cheers, Mike