What does a stock Evo rod look like before it breaks?
#33
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looks like it time to rip apart the stock block and build it lol...
#34
I wouldnt get crazy just yet. Plugs gapped to 0.020? New wires? Tried a known set of good coils? Made sure the dwell is up enough for the boost level you are running? Timing and AFR good?
Bent rod will make noise and be low on compression. I doubt that is your issue so dont tear your block apart till you figure out what the issue is first because I can pretty much guarantee it will still be there when it all goes back together.
Aaron
Bent rod will make noise and be low on compression. I doubt that is your issue so dont tear your block apart till you figure out what the issue is first because I can pretty much guarantee it will still be there when it all goes back together.
Aaron
#35
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I wouldnt get crazy just yet. Plugs gapped to 0.020? New wires? Tried a known set of good coils? Made sure the dwell is up enough for the boost level you are running? Timing and AFR good?
Bent rod will make noise and be low on compression. I doubt that is your issue so dont tear your block apart till you figure out what the issue is first because I can pretty much guarantee it will still be there when it all goes back together.
Aaron
Bent rod will make noise and be low on compression. I doubt that is your issue so dont tear your block apart till you figure out what the issue is first because I can pretty much guarantee it will still be there when it all goes back together.
Aaron
#37
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i am running a cop kit . coils are good . plugs are at . 022 timing is good and afr are within check. its been running on e85 for the past 3.5 year and it just started to happen since 10/31/2011 . 26 psi and .022 gap i am sure dwell is enough for the boost.. or i could be wrong. and dwell issues on a distributor less ignition and cop kit would have shown up on the oscilloscope when logging data. all coil under boost have around 21 kv . ... i am gone recheck dwell 2morrow.. it could be small little **** that causing it . or something big bang is about to happen LOL...
#38
Evolved Member
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Interesting topic. I have a rod like the ones posted in this thread as well. It came from a motor I purchased from a local. The motor was still driven over 1,000 miles after the motor developed rod knock from the bend.
Last edited by RyuEvoIX; Nov 7, 2011 at 04:22 AM.
#40
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I'm subscribed to this thread because I have some nice noises goin on with my car. I just bought it a couple months back and it's been nothing, but problems. I've replaced the turbo and related gaskets, lower intercooler piping (previous owner crumpled the stock by hitting a snowbank), valve cover gasket and plug seals, throttle body seals, and plugs. Car still is obnoxiously loud under load and has occasional misfiring. Doesn't help that the clutch may be going bad. I can't seem to get passed 20psi without misfiring or knocking. I will be doing a compression test soon to see if something is wrong in the motor, but some of the comments in here have me wondering about the integrity of my pistons and rods (one cylinder had oil in it, but it seems to have been from a cracked valve cover leaking down the plug channel).
On topic, that rod is CRAZY! I wish they all did that instead of snapping.
On topic, that rod is CRAZY! I wish they all did that instead of snapping.
#42
We had one Manley H beam break in half but it seems that it was more likely what it was being put through than forces on the rod. The pathology was hard to determine but it may have even been a wrist pin issue. No way to tell for sure other than it exited.
#44
Rod capacity
Hello to everyone. I’m sorry I make alive this topic again. Buy can I ask general rule 400torque is the that connecting rod can handle is wheel torque or flywheel torque? And on dynojet or mustang or other brand dyno?
thanks.
thanks.