juyanith

iTrader: (7)

This is good advice -- if the clutch is engaged (ie not pressed down) then the ratio between your engine RPM and tire RPM (ie, speed) is constant for that gear. If you ever have a situation where it is not, something has to be slipping.

EDIT -- Engaged dangit!

BLUEBYYOU8

hey man
dont listen alot of these guys dont have a clue, bring it to your dealer and have them check you waste gate and waste gate actuator this has been a major problem for mitsubishi it happen to my car it revs but just doesnt pull as hard cuz your not getting full boost you might have also noticed a change in exhaust note. when it happen to mine it felt like my 95 turbo talon (starved for boost). im stuck in iraq sice may and have only driven mine for 2 weeks at the beging of dec. get it fixed and enjoy the car.

peace brother

umiami80

iTrader: (1)

Tighten your IC clamp hoses, mine where too loose and leaked, I tightened them all, car woke up, do it, they are loose from the factory.

Ryanmcd3

Before you do ANYTHING put a boost gauge on the car, man you have to be retared if you don't have one installed because you have no clue WHAT is going on. Don't tighten anything untill you install a boost gauge so you can see what the problem is.

IgotaWhiteOne

that is true right if the car has set with out power say for a month (like mine) it should not get rid of the reflash should it?

nick735

iTrader: (5)

I took the car out again today to further analyze the problem. Since I dont have a boost guage im doing it by how the car feels. I came to the conclusion that they couldnt of reflashed the car back to stock since the car is now slower than it was when i originally got it. After a few acceleration runs I noticed that power delievery seemed normal below 3000 rpm's, right before you can actualy feel the turbo producing power. After 3000 rpms you could feel a slight increase in power, but not as much as there should be. It basically feels like im down 50hp . So since the power difference is higher in the rpms i assume there must be a problem with the turbo, or turbo related parts. I checked all the connections as best i could without realy getting too deap into the engine bay. From what I could see all the connections seemed pretty tight, but then again i just checked the connections on the surface. Anyway im going to bring the car to the dealership and see what they say. Hopefully its nothing serious. Thanks for your help guys!

Oscar

1) You have to be pretty sure no air leaks is present along the whole inlet lines and that means performing some sore of test: Use water & soap (oulet lines) or ether (inlet lines) in order to be "sure".

2) Your problem sounds like your turbo is dying but i dont know why?. your car should be almost new. What kind of oil they put in your engine? i´ve expierenced some "spooling" issue when using high oil viscosity. Remeber the higher the oil visc is the later turbo starts to spool.

3) You can check turbocharger inlet for excesive oil leak or compressor bleads damages (making contact against housing).

4) Install a boost pressure gauge in your car. Turbo will allways generate boost pressure (even when it starts to fail), what makes difference is how many rpm were needed before or are needed now to do that.

Please keep us posted about dealer´s test results.

good luck!

propellerhead

iTrader: (3)

Based on my limited experience, what you descibe sounds like a boost leak. On my old S4 the throttle body boot was split where the clamp wrapped around the throttle body end of the boot. This is a common issue with the B5 S4s. Anyway, the symptoms of the torn boot and resulting boost leak sound almost exactly like what you describe. The tear in the boot would hold up until a certain manifold pressure and then "blow off" when it couldn't hold any more pressure. It would "reset" itself when boost levels fell off.

I'd check all of your hose connections and soft piping.

evil8

iTrader: (4)

boost gauge should have been your first mod, install one and report back.

juyanith

iTrader: (7)

Before you go you might want to check the lines going into the turbo/wastegate and solenoid. The turbo and wastegate are way down in the engine bay in the front at about the same level as the bottom of the radiator. The lines for the solenoid are under the airbox. Good luck, hopefully it is just something simple like a leaking hose.

Angel Of Mercy

Hey Ju,

FYI, when u step down on the clutch, you are actually disengaging the clutch.... which releases your flywheel from your transmission... and releasing the clutch engages the clutch which the clutch springs press back against the transmission... hence connecting the power to the wheels...

Its a common misconception with a lot of ppl... (same here till recently)... clutch wear only occurs at the point where engagement and disengagement occurs whereby there is a speed difference between flywheel and transmission and this is where wear occurs...

Read this http://www.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

To make your clutch last longer, you can just 'drop' it by release and depressing it very fast.. however, the drawback of this is that your transmission parts and differentials take the full brunt of force thus may cause misaligned tooths... personally, i prefer to disengage and engage at a moderate rate so power transfer is relatively smooth yet quick... (clutches plates are cheaper then differentials)....

juyanith

iTrader: (7)

Angel,

Whoops! You are absolutely correct. Clutch in = flywheel and clutch plate DISengaged, clutch out = engaged. Sorry about that. The terminology always seemed backward to me (ie, pressed in seems like it should be "engaged") and I think the double-negative got me. So "not pressed down" should be "not disengaged" or "engaged".

Oh well, I'll edit the post to avoid confusing anyone other than myself.