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Burning Oil- catch can install help

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Old Nov 29, 2011, 11:51 AM
  #31  
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Actually im gonna question ur previous post cfd, the other end of the valve cover doesnt need a check valve because its never closed, Its a vent hole to relieve crankcase pressure for when you build boost, the higher the boost the more pressure is put inside the valve cover thus the need for the relief, now however the catch can doesnt have it flow in both directions, if that were the case then you would get oil vapors reversion going back into the valve cover, if that happened and enough boost pressure you could damage the valve cover or worse. So case in point neither the pcv valve or the relief vent are both ways, there both one ways, only difference is one closes upon transitioning into boost. I use my cusco catch can to catch the vapors coming out the vent bung, since primarily thats where most of the oil vapors come from compared to the pcv side to intake mani, that saikou can looks good and im sure it keeps the engine cleaner as it doesnt really get any oil vapors in it, But a single stage catch can hooked up vent side to turbo inlet works just as well imo.
Old Nov 29, 2011, 01:16 PM
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im done responding to him.. he clearly is going to continue to allow boost to pressurize his can to 30psi+.

now he thinks the valve cover to air intake side is the same as the intake mani to valve cover? please..

there is nothing pressurizing the can on the valve cover to turbo side in the wrong direction and never will be. the only reason i utilize the can feedback on that end is to use the turbo as a vacuum source and it works well and was tested & monitored via a gauge under WOT.. and there's a massive difference when its routed to the air intake. it helps way more then people think.

i am done responding to him now though.. let him enjoy pressurizing his can cause hes to cheap or to stubborn to take someone elses advice and invest in a $2 check valve that will last the rest of his vehicles life time + assist in more vacuum and response in general.
Old Nov 29, 2011, 02:49 PM
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..

Last edited by Dragracer187; Nov 30, 2011 at 08:59 AM.
Old Nov 29, 2011, 07:37 PM
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Help me understand here, it's not the pressure that's the problem and it's not the direction of flow that's the problem, it's the combination of the two? Correct? Don't get mad now use your words and explain this to me.

I know that the two VC vents do very different things.
Old Nov 30, 2011, 12:04 AM
  #35  
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i dont wanna be a dick man but we must be speaking swahili or something, both him and I kinda put it in the simplest terms that can be put in. to understand y having something pressurized can cause an issue, One vents one shuts when the vent is working overtime, not much more easier i can make it to explain, pressure in a valve cover, works like electricity it goes the path of the least resistance. So pressure in the valve cover will travel to where it can the easiest. In this case, like said a few times pcv closes under boost, thus making only place crankcase pressure and vapors can go is through the vent, now pcv valves can go bad or stick when up in mileage, thus if the pcv valve stays open, then that pressure travels to one side of your dual catch can setup, done right with enough positive pressure can deteriorate over time or damage internals such as that stainless steel wool. Thus with tscomp's recommendation of a one way check valve that closes on the same side as the pcv, keeps that hose shut when in boost, preventing positive pressure from going into that side of the dual catch can when its not supposed too.
Luckily you caught me when im faded, thus making it easier to explain it to you haha
Old Nov 30, 2011, 03:03 AM
  #36  
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so........
is this any good?http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html
and should I install my single catch can at all?
Old Nov 30, 2011, 02:36 PM
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dastallion951/,

Go back and read your posts, you say you don't catch any oil on your setup then tell the OP not to run the can on the PCV side; you contradict yourself several times elsewhere as well.

My whole point is that pressure won't hurt a good catch-can and if you're worried about the direction of flow on one can why not worry about the direction of flow on the other? Maintain your PCV valve and change it once in a while you won't have any problems, it's a maintenance item. There are plenty of things on you car that can make a mess or even cause a fire. Your catch can isn't like a balloon that's just going to burst spewing s-hit all over the place.
Attached Thumbnails Burning Oil- catch can install help-pcv-2-can.jpg  

Last edited by cfdfireman1; Nov 30, 2011 at 02:38 PM.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by WeeeeEvo
so........
is this any good?http://www.maperformance.com/kracka-...acuum-kit.html
and should I install my single catch can at all?
no use this: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ite...6844&catid=489

if you want the kracka vents though pm me ill sell them cheap i dont use the ones i bought.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 12:48 AM
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im gonna go out on a limb and say that a catch can isnt going to help this guy's oil burning issue...
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by dastallion951
i dont wanna be a dick man but we must be speaking swahili or something, both him and I kinda put it in the simplest terms that can be put in. to understand y having something pressurized can cause an issue, One vents one shuts when the vent is working overtime, not much more easier i can make it to explain, pressure in a valve cover, works like electricity it goes the path of the least resistance. So pressure in the valve cover will travel to where it can the easiest. In this case, like said a few times pcv closes under boost, thus making only place crankcase pressure and vapors can go is through the vent, now pcv valves can go bad or stick when up in mileage, thus if the pcv valve stays open, then that pressure travels to one side of your dual catch can setup, done right with enough positive pressure can deteriorate over time or damage internals such as that stainless steel wool. Thus with tscomp's recommendation of a one way check valve that closes on the same side as the pcv, keeps that hose shut when in boost, preventing positive pressure from going into that side of the dual catch can when its not supposed too.
Luckily you caught me when im faded, thus making it easier to explain it to you haha
you're not explaining it right at all.

1. you don't need a check valve on the pcv to can side.. the pcv is the check valve.. however i do put one there anyways just in case for backup.. believe it or not the stock pcv isnt even as strong as the usplastic ones i just linked above. also when you place the check valve on the pcv side you DONT do it the opposite direction of the pcv.. its just a backup check valve in case the stock pcv fails.. which they do all the time.

2. the can to the intake manifold side is the issue. if you dont run a inline check valve from the can to the intake manifold, you're going to allow the intake manifold pressure to reach to the can making your setup less efficient, alter vacuum efficiency which in turn will hurt normal drive ability, idle, whatever.. and put excessive and unnecessary and most importantly avoidable wear and tear on the can interior in itself.

the only reason you dont need check valves on the valve cover to air intake side is because its a directional one way, there is no boost source shooting pressure into the can, so there is no need to stop it in either direction.

read all of https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...re-issues.html
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:01 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tim85851
im gonna go out on a limb and say that a catch can isnt going to help this guy's oil burning issue...
read what i said the first time i posted in here.. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/9765735-post9.html
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:18 AM
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cfdfireman1

look at what you just posted.. a picture with a check valve in between the catch can tube running from the can to intake manifold? imagine that............

if you were smart you would realize the only thing separating the inlet and outlet on that particular can is steel wool type material which air can get right past..

WOT full boost, the turbos packing air down the compressor outlet into the intercooler and up the upper pipe and in the intake manifold and guess what? the one portion of the catch can when you run single cans per side is being pressurized by the intake manifold boost pressure.. what happens when you pressurize a limited area can that has another connection on it? it travels out the other side and SLAMS the pcv valve.. you're looping pressure where it shouldn't go during the situation and you're trying to tell me its ok because the can wont break.. as i said you have no clue what you're even doing. you're gumming the lines with oil and whatever else is happening in that situation.. take off the hose running from the pcv to your can and i bet you will have a oil residue in it, and i bet mine has none....

are you really stubborn enough to not take someone elses help or what? i don't understand.. what im telling you will benefit yourself.. and when you continue to argue its just rude. you don't think i know the pcv is shut when pressure smacks it going towards the valve cover? i mean come on.. that's common sense! the stock setup is a small line running right off the valve cover to the intake manifold.. if it wasn't a check valve it would pressurize the valve cover with boost.

the pressure isn't the problem.. hopefully you get it now.. and if you want proof that your setup is effecting your car.. run a check valve or run the valve cover back directly to the intake manifold and watch your vacuum get better.
Old Dec 1, 2011, 01:29 AM
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cfdfireman1 - let me also give you another hint.. by allowing pressure to escape the intake manifold you're hurting your vehicles performance all around. its not necessarily a boost leak, but its robbing your engine of max response since its got another path to go and fill up.. you will most definitely notice quite a bit if you put a check valve where im telling you to.. its going to restrict the airflow to a more narrowed space making your setup more efficient.. right now its a mess depending on how long your lines are.

Last edited by tscompusa; Dec 1, 2011 at 01:31 AM. Reason: added some
Old Dec 1, 2011, 05:03 AM
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Let me offer a suggestion, check the pcv to ensure it is working, i.e. sealing one way and free the other. If not functioning, replace it. very cheap item.

My valve cover breather is very dry and does not warrant a scc compared to my pcv side with a scc saikou setup. After 4k km, I get 4.25oz, a small baby bottle full although my this goes there, my oil level is still fine and rarely needs oil(10w-30 ATM Amsoil)

Check your line from pcv to intake and see how wet it is. Install your can and soon before next oil change, spray some intake cleaner through the line and remove some of the oil that blew past the pcv since the oil in the combustion chamber would create hot spots and lower your detonation resistance.

AFAIK, only AGP and Saikou Michi are the only ppl who don't make empty cans.

As you were guys....
Old Dec 1, 2011, 10:46 AM
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@cfdfireman: First off man yes ill say it before n ill say it again, maybe your ears are painted on haha, yes i have not seen any oil accumulated on the the tube that measures how full it is. Second unless the OP has a dual stage catch can which can do both side valve cover ports then, yes it makes sense to do the one by the cam sensor since that shoots the oil vapors out in BOOST. How am I contradicting myself, I told him he doesnt need to use a dual catch can, but itll keep the engine cleaner. If anyones contradicting themself it is you. And I used the can blowing up as a reference for anyone running a dual stage can running 30+psi boost hooked up to both ports as a worse case scenario you should see what can blow apart with 30 psi of air pressure, mine wont blow as its only on one side where no reversion takes place, intake pipe to valve cover nipple as the turbo used vacuum to pull the vapors and trap them in my oil catch can. BTW, please enlighten me on what other threads I contradicted myself elsewhere, your problem is you have 3,000+ posts and most of them you talk out your backdoor like your some kinda pro or something. My posts I say to help people, and unlike you im quite educated in this field.
@tscomp yes I know the pcv is a check valve a one way check valve, but after your reading your thread about adding one inline after the pcv makes sense especially when your pushing a LOT of boost. Now I never said to put the back up one backwards thats stupid that means it would open upon boost and close upon vacuum either popping the rubber line for pcv to intake mani or worse, two one way check valves need to face the same way I never said different. But I dont run one pcv to intake mani catch can so I would never run a check valve from valve cover port to intake pipe.
Give me some credit im just adding my 0.02 and Im not contradicting myself, you can run a dual can or single can setup. Just because im running a single can setup doesnt make mine any less good at catchin vapors. For food of thought my pcv valve is fine, was just replaced a few thousand miles ago along with some performance upgrades.
So go ahead bicker on in this thread about whos right whos wrong, were not in grade school anymore, and its not helpin ops situation. Any other questions op pm me,


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