Discuss.

-Travis

 

has nothing to do with hp or rpm.


bad harmonics can happen at idle or 8500.

 

I don't think its a horsepower issue as much as you need it for the following reasons:

1) You built the motor and changed the harmonics and the stock rubber/elastomer balancer is no longer tuned to the harmonics of the engine.

2) You are trapping a certain speed at the drag strip and need an SFI certified balancer.


That being said, you can run one on the stock motor. It helps against the torsional vibrations and will help the bearings last longer.

FWIW, when I built my motor I put one on.



-Bink

 

Totally off topic but when my Fluidampr showed up I was surprised how effin heavy the SOB was. I thought they used to make these out of Aluminum. Interested in seeing what others say about needing this piece.

 

the aluminum ones are a rare find.. but do exsist..

 

Your right the original batch was aluminum. They switched due to manufacturing reasons and they said the steel (heavier) version will help against vibrations better, because it was heavier.

I'm pretty sure English Racing's auto DSM doesn't use one, according to Myles. However, Most-Wanted ran one on his stock motor when he broke some records.

I felt it was (in the grand scheme of building a motor) cheap insurance. Also, if you read around and do your research you'll see that the stock balancer is only tuned to the stock engine internals, makes sense when you change the internals you will also need to change the balancer.



-Bink

 

I have no technical data at all but have been using them on my eclipses and now my evo for 15 years! I figure 3-4k into a motor an extra 300 is nothing!

 

Waste of money. You dont need one. Search this site where DB chimes in about them. If memory serves me, he said that he does not have one on the bad bish.

I ran with out one for the longest time on my galant(680hp on E85), and finally I figured I would put one in. Pulling data logs before and after there was 0 difference. Mind you that was on an AEM, using the ECU log so very granular amounts of knock data. My engine noise profile did not change one bit. The only reason I talk about my knock log, is that was the only thing I had to compare. I did not pull the oil pan and check the bearings. So the only way I could tell if there was more engine noise was via a knock log.

I would say take the 3-400 bucks and get something else that makes more sense before you waste you money on a balancer. Just my opinion.

 

FWIW, DB and JAM helped develop the Fluidampr for the 4G63.


-Bink

 

We have never run one. Tech doesnt look either so we arent even worried about it then. Just check it before every outing (Jeff's car) to make sure it hasnt separated. In a street car under 10,000r I doubt you'd ever have an issue with the stock one's abilities. That being said I have seen them loosen up or never been tightened down correctly (dont know which but I have my suspicions) and it chows the back of the stock one up. I would still run stock, and do in fact.

Aaron

 

stm told me that the stock ones are fine

 

We run the stock one on all of our builds.


-Em

 

You run one when the tech inspector tells you to, which they do here at the tracks I've been to in Cali.

All inspections here are ****!

 

Torsional vibration has nothing to do with engine knock.

 

I feel we are speaking on deaf ears.