fuel pump wire with high/low voltage circuit
Dec 22, 2012, 02:29 AM
#47
Evolved Member
Ive upgraded just my earth wire with 12AWG wire to a bolt under the back seat, got me another 500rpm until my injectors go static.
Any idea what the effect of replacing the wire from solenoid 3 to the pump with 10-12AWG wire would be? Might be worth a few points of a volt yeah?
Any idea what the effect of replacing the wire from solenoid 3 to the pump with 10-12AWG wire would be? Might be worth a few points of a volt yeah?
Dec 22, 2012, 10:19 PM
#48
Ive upgraded just my earth wire with 12AWG wire to a bolt under the back seat, got me another 500rpm until my injectors go static.
Any idea what the effect of replacing the wire from solenoid 3 to the pump with 10-12AWG wire would be? Might be worth a few points of a volt yeah?
Any idea what the effect of replacing the wire from solenoid 3 to the pump with 10-12AWG wire would be? Might be worth a few points of a volt yeah?
Dec 23, 2012, 02:30 AM
#49
Evolved Member
Did it. Gained a few AFR points but not much more before they hit 100% IDC. I think I have to accept that I'm out of pump unless I'm prepared to wire up a direct line to the battery (I'm not). Might try a walbro 416 and see how that goes.....
Dec 23, 2012, 09:21 AM
#51
Evolved Member
Just wonder will it be better to direct wire the fuel pump with the battery?
My recent experience is my fp wires were extremely hot and to my surprise, its started to brittle.
Ive just changed the brittle part and add more grounding (if i could get it right) and im surprise again that me fuel pressure suddenly surge and the car run smoother but it just last for a week and is still hot.
What is the better way to solve this problem?
Ive added relay too.
My recent experience is my fp wires were extremely hot and to my surprise, its started to brittle.
Ive just changed the brittle part and add more grounding (if i could get it right) and im surprise again that me fuel pressure suddenly surge and the car run smoother but it just last for a week and is still hot.
What is the better way to solve this problem?
Ive added relay too.
Dec 23, 2012, 04:48 PM
#52
Evolved Member
Are you saying your stock wiring is getting hot and becoming brittle or is it an after market hardwire kit?
Excessive heat is due to high current draw through the wire, some are rated quite high in temp but you don't want to run with super hot wiring. My stock wiring doesn't feel more than body temp running a DW301.
Excessive heat is due to high current draw through the wire, some are rated quite high in temp but you don't want to run with super hot wiring. My stock wiring doesn't feel more than body temp running a DW301.
Dec 23, 2012, 07:20 PM
#53
Evolved Member
Hi Evocentrik, no its not stock wires and even after the change i think its not high temp wire. The wire is extreme hot after some hard runs.
Should i use a high temp wire and is there any which suitable for car? Its seem rare on my place here and we usually cut and take frm the halfcut engine wires. We will go for the biggest wire.
Should i use a high temp wire and is there any which suitable for car? Its seem rare on my place here and we usually cut and take frm the halfcut engine wires. We will go for the biggest wire.
Dec 23, 2012, 09:03 PM
#56
Evolved Member
Use larger gauge wire will make it handle higher current better. What pump are you running?
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I have upgraded the stock earth and wiring from pump to fuse box leaving the stock relays and stock battery to relay wiring in place and I'm getting 12.75v at the pump in high voltage mode. I've heard people mention 12.3-12.5v at the pump on factory wiring.....and Mr Fred you were getting 12.9 on your custom dual voltage rewire setup.
Given that voltage seems my DW301 is flowing less than it should, seems to only be able to supply ~222LPH @ 12.75v @ 54psi (deliberately tapered boost to 19 psi up top and assuming ~35psi rail pressure). Max power at 105-110% IDC is ~440hp DJ on E85.
*******************
I have upgraded the stock earth and wiring from pump to fuse box leaving the stock relays and stock battery to relay wiring in place and I'm getting 12.75v at the pump in high voltage mode. I've heard people mention 12.3-12.5v at the pump on factory wiring.....and Mr Fred you were getting 12.9 on your custom dual voltage rewire setup.
Given that voltage seems my DW301 is flowing less than it should, seems to only be able to supply ~222LPH @ 12.75v @ 54psi (deliberately tapered boost to 19 psi up top and assuming ~35psi rail pressure). Max power at 105-110% IDC is ~440hp DJ on E85.
Last edited by EvocentriK; Dec 23, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
Dec 24, 2012, 08:27 AM
#59
Evolved Member
It's not a full rewire, it's 'improved stock wiring' 
I just traced the stock power wire from the fuel pump back to the fuse box under the drivers side dash (right hand drive - JDM model) and replaced it with 12 AWG wire (heavier gauge wire for lower resistance and bypassing 3 connectors). Cut stock earth off at the fuel pump plug and re-wired with 12 AWG to point under back seat.
MrFreds full rewire is what you want if you want to redo it all using new wiring from battery + new relays. Those aeromotive pumps pull a lot of current.
I just traced the stock power wire from the fuel pump back to the fuse box under the drivers side dash (right hand drive - JDM model) and replaced it with 12 AWG wire (heavier gauge wire for lower resistance and bypassing 3 connectors). Cut stock earth off at the fuel pump plug and re-wired with 12 AWG to point under back seat.MrFreds full rewire is what you want if you want to redo it all using new wiring from battery + new relays. Those aeromotive pumps pull a lot of current.
Last edited by EvocentriK; Dec 24, 2012 at 04:45 PM.