Kidloco51

iTrader: (32)

Hello EvoM,

My car is finally hitting the dyno this friday with the new motor. My question to EvoM is what do I run the motor to RPM wise.

The motor is a MA Performance built 2.0L Long Rod with Full Port/Polished head, GSC S2's and GSC beehives.

Also the car is a road race car so what is a comfortable redline for motor in terms of power and longevity.

See my sig for build thread.


Thanks Tim

teribble

iTrader: (31)

I know if you plan on running the motor in high RPM's for a long period you’re going to want the ATI crank balancer to help with the vibs. I'd say you should look at the Dyno graph and see where your power drops off. There's no reason to rev to 9k if you’re not making power other than running that gear out so you don't have to shift in between corners.

binky

iTrader: (11)

I safely rev mine to 8500 on 93 pump, with very similar mods. Built 2.0 / MAP Stage 3 Head / Kiggly valve springs / GSC S3's running 34 PSI boost and tapering to 29 PSI by 8500. Mine also still makes power that high. I don't know if the EF3 will continue to make power at that kind of RPM. When I go back for an E85 tune, I'll rev 9000, running 40 PSI.

Also, the LR is meant be rev'ed high, as long as you have the valvetrain to support it.



Do NOT get an ATI. They will kill your motor. Either stick with OEM or get a Fluidampr.

Most people will tell you OEM is fine, however, for cheap(er) insurance I used a Fluidampr. The OEM crank damper is good enough for stock internals, as it is rubber and is tuned for the stock internals. Once you change the internals you need a different crank damper in order to handle the harmonics created by the engine.



-Bink