(Video) Boost Activated Cutout - My new favorite mod!
#1
(Video) Boost Activated Cutout - My new favorite mod!
I've always preferred the stock catback over any of the noisy aftermarket ones, and until now, I had been using a 3" QTP Electric cutout.
Well, the QTP cutout, as convenient as it was, ended up being quite a pain in some ways. The motors seem to die every 6 months, probably from exposure to year-round weather. The motor also opens and closes very slowly... it takes at least 5 seconds. It also makes tuning a bit more difficult because the car idles different with cutout open vs. closed, and it just takes longer to tune WOT as you have to tune both conditions.
In steps in my hero, the Boost Activated Cutout. The one I purchased was from Sound Performance. Yes, the price is steep, but it seemed like it would solve all my problems with the QTP unit.
It starts to open at 5psi and is fully open at 11psi. I'm absolutely in love with it. I just started tuning my new 2.1L HTA86 setup, and couldn't resist the urge to post a video of the cutout in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7pv2dvMIEc
Well, the QTP cutout, as convenient as it was, ended up being quite a pain in some ways. The motors seem to die every 6 months, probably from exposure to year-round weather. The motor also opens and closes very slowly... it takes at least 5 seconds. It also makes tuning a bit more difficult because the car idles different with cutout open vs. closed, and it just takes longer to tune WOT as you have to tune both conditions.
In steps in my hero, the Boost Activated Cutout. The one I purchased was from Sound Performance. Yes, the price is steep, but it seemed like it would solve all my problems with the QTP unit.
It starts to open at 5psi and is fully open at 11psi. I'm absolutely in love with it. I just started tuning my new 2.1L HTA86 setup, and couldn't resist the urge to post a video of the cutout in action.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7pv2dvMIEc
#6
My choices were to A) modify the SP part, B) Add a 2" spacer to the flange, or C) Install it backwards.
I went with C, it still works just the same
#7
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iTrader: (12)
I already had the Y-Pipe from my QTP, and when I tried to install the SP cutout in the intended position, the actuator runs into the driveshaft.
My choices were to A) modify the SP part, B) Add a 2" spacer to the flange, or C) Install it backwards.
I went with C, it still works just the same
My choices were to A) modify the SP part, B) Add a 2" spacer to the flange, or C) Install it backwards.
I went with C, it still works just the same
Did you order it online or call it in? I tried to do it online last week, but the server presented an expired certificate. So I ended up getting SpoolinUp COP instead. I may call it in next month.
Do you have any hp/tq numbers gained with this?
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#8
I did order online (despite the expired cert).
I don't have any numbers as far as gains since this is an all-new setup for me... new motor, new turbo, new cutout.
They claim pretty big gains vs. stock exhaust (doesn't every cutout?). A test vehicle (~500whp Supra) apparently made +55whp with the cutout vs. stock exhaust:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvCl-v_AzLE
I don't have any numbers as far as gains since this is an all-new setup for me... new motor, new turbo, new cutout.
They claim pretty big gains vs. stock exhaust (doesn't every cutout?). A test vehicle (~500whp Supra) apparently made +55whp with the cutout vs. stock exhaust:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvCl-v_AzLE
Last edited by recompile; Jan 22, 2012 at 05:40 PM.
#13
There's two paths for exhaust, one is through the wastegate and the other is through the turbine/downpipe/catback.
An open dump wastegate is before the turbo. An exhaust cutout is after the turbo.
I am now not only dumping the excess exhaust via the wastegate (exhaust no longer needed to power the turbo once it has hit full bost), I'm also dumping the exhaust that is used to power the turbo via the cutout.
Last edited by recompile; Jan 23, 2012 at 04:06 AM.