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QuarterMaster Twin, Anybody have this problem...

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Old Feb 22, 2012, 06:37 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by OneCrzyEvo21
When that clutch starts "truly" slipping it feels like REALLY BAD wheel hop. Kinda like in a civic
When I wore out my first set of disks, it just smoothly slipped once you hit the threshold of TQ it couldn't hold anymore. RPM would climb and speed... not so much. Unless I supposed you got to that threshold and stayed there.

Mine first slipped while I was doing some 4th gear tuning with my FP Red and E85.

The input shaft bearing starting to fail sounds like any other bearing going/gone bad. Kind of a high pitched noise, in my case it went away when you put pressure on the clutch.

I'd say the clutch probably has pressure on it from the pedal not being adjusted quite right.

When I replaced the disks(with the old style Hardened Hubs and more recently with the Gear-Drive hub), it held 450TQ just fine on the very first drive from being replaced, so a bad break-in probably isn't the cause for slipping either.

For fun, I destroyed the second set of disks.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...lure-pics.html
Old Mar 1, 2012, 03:16 PM
  #17  
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First off, I would like to thank all the guys that had quick responses. While it wasn't any of those problems I will shed light on what the problem with this clutch was...

I don't want to this to come off as me dissing QM, because I did buy the clutch used, but there are some things that could have been resolved when this issue first started happening. The source of my problem was in the TOB. When the car was sitting there with no pressure on the clutch pedal the TOB was still slightly engaged, due to it having the wrong piston inside the TOB. This is what cause my slipping issues. Now, QM had this clutch in their possession a total of 3 times and never thought to check the TOB. The first time they had it, they said the floater plate was worn and the pressure plate was only at 2100lbs, so a new floater plate was bought and the pressure plate was fixed. The car was put back together and still slipped, so it was pulled out and taken back to QM. The second time it was there they said the the discs might have been a little worn and that the fly wheel needed to be resurfaced (why wasn't this mentioned the first time the clutch was in there?), so I had them do the work. The shop began putting the car back together and when they put the trans in the TOB piston pushed out a little, so the shop stopped and pulled the clutch AGAIN and took it to QM AGAIN. The shop thought maybe the TOB was machined wrong (QM had the TOB twice already and nothing was mentioned), but when QM looked at it they said it had the wrong piston in it, which was causing the problem.

I think the main thing that I am angry about is that QM had this clutch not once, not twice, but 3 times before they solved the problem. If I had one of my customers bring a product back a second time after I had fixed it, I would check EVERYTHING. I would check any and all tolerances, any and all pistons or anything else you can think of. There is no reason my trans should have been pulled 3 times to get this problem fixed. I am happy that I will have my car back tomorrow problem free and look forward to this race season, but I swear if I have 1 more problem with this clutch bad things will happen. Also, to be clear about my original post where I said the clutch had about 500 miles, that was after the 1st time QM had the clutch and it was "rebuilt" and ready to go according to QM.

*Cliff Notes*

If you buy a QuarterMaster clutch, watch the TOB during installation to make sure it doesn't move at all or you are in for a fun adventure.

Last edited by emotart; Mar 1, 2012 at 04:36 PM.
Old Mar 3, 2012, 09:57 PM
  #18  
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I take it this is the older 6 leg version, not the 8 leg right?
Old Mar 4, 2012, 01:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RjRacing05
I take it this is the older 6 leg version, not the 8 leg right?
You are correct sir.
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