Concerning oil pressure on new build
#31
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I don't envy your situation, for sure, is it possible the front cover is warped? torque wrench out of spec? (Maybe you're unintentionally under torquing bolts?) what kind of sealant are you using? how long are you waiting for the sealant to set? what's the temperature like when you're using the sealant?
I'd love to be able to help, but I'm grasping at straws on this.
I'd love to be able to help, but I'm grasping at straws on this.
Torque wrench is fine, only a couple years old and hasn't had much use. I guess I could try my neighbors out.
I'm using Permatex Ultra Grey for sealant...but its only on the oil pan, which isn't leaking. I've always waited 24 for sealant to cure as well.
Only thing I can think is if its leaking through the some of the bolts. Do the bolts that hold the motor mount to the block go into any of the oil passages on a 4G64, I've never looked. Other than that I'm out of ideas.
#34
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Other people have run into this. Search on 'oil leak after timing job' if interested.
#35
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There is a bolt in the area of the tensioner on a 4G63 that goes into a oil gallery. I remember doping the threads before reinstalling it when doing my timing belt. I knew which bolt then because it was oily at the end when removed. For a 4G64 - dunno.
Other people have run into this. Search on 'oil leak after timing job' if interested.
Other people have run into this. Search on 'oil leak after timing job' if interested.
#37
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In regards to the front cover, Much to my surprise, the mitsu service manual doesn't call for any sealant on the cover/ gasket, but in my experience, a thin coat of grey sealant makes eveything seal up much better. The factory gaskets are high quality, but every little bit helps.
#38
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On the front side engine support bracket, there are main bolts that run diagonally. (The top one is to the left of the bottom one while looking at the timing belt) The middle one requires sealant. If you take it out and look in it, you can see the bottom of a head stud, and what looks to be an oil passage. The manual says to use sealant on that bolt.
#39
UPDATE!
I did get the car on the interstate today. 92psi give or take, is what I am seeing on the interstate at 3k rpms doing 70mph. Temp on the car was normal, and its about 50deg outside today. Also, its 20w50 motor oil. This seem right? No bs by the way.
I am seeing old threads of guys saying their pressure on the interstate at 3k is about 80, give or take. Considering my BS are removed, im guessing its normal?
I did get the car on the interstate today. 92psi give or take, is what I am seeing on the interstate at 3k rpms doing 70mph. Temp on the car was normal, and its about 50deg outside today. Also, its 20w50 motor oil. This seem right? No bs by the way.
I am seeing old threads of guys saying their pressure on the interstate at 3k is about 80, give or take. Considering my BS are removed, im guessing its normal?
#45
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I haven't gone WOT yet due to only having 150 miles on my new 2.3. MAP built my shortblock using Wiseco 1400HD pistons, Manley TT Stroker rods, and the Manley 100mm billet crank (no balance shafts). I'm currently running Amsoil break-in straight 30 weight oil. So far, I haven't lost a drop of oil. I see -16 to -18 in vacuum at idle with GSC S2 cams. I also run a Saikou Michi 3-port catch can with both valve cover vents running -6an fittings, and my outlet running to the air intake using a 1/2" hose.
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