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At what point will a -6an Head Vent become Insufficient?

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Old Apr 24, 2012, 07:20 PM
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At what point will a -6an Head Vent become Insufficient?

Hey guys,

I'm having trouble deciding how much to vent my LR 2.4L. I will be running a -6an off of the front inspection hole, however, I don't know how much to vent the head.

Will venting the head with two -6an fittings be sufficient under 700whp?

I have everything to do a -10an setup, but don't have the time to drill out the baffles, tap the head, etc. Thus, if I run the STM -6an fittings I can just press them in and be done.

I would like some opinions on this.

Thanks!
Old Apr 24, 2012, 08:04 PM
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Depends upon how much blow by you have... which depends on how loose the engine is built (PTW and Ring gaps) and how worn the engine is.

Also depends on how much gets past your CHRA seals and into your drain line from your turbocharger.

So I guess it depends. Emery does it with 3 -6AN ports. 2 -6AN ports may not cause you to start failing gaskets or blowing diptstick tubes out... but it will certainly have higher crankcase pressure than if you did a pair of -8's or -10's.
Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by R/TErnie
Depends upon how much blow by you have... which depends on how loose the engine is built (PTW and Ring gaps) and how worn the engine is.

Also depends on how much gets past your CHRA seals and into your drain line from your turbocharger.

So I guess it depends. Emery does it with 3 -6AN ports. 2 -6AN ports may not cause you to start failing gaskets or blowing diptstick tubes out... but it will certainly have higher crankcase pressure than if you did a pair of -8's or -10's.
I was hoping you'd reply .

I have all of the fittings for a pair of -10an's on the VC, but didn't want to drill the baffles out if I didn't have to.

I'll have the 12mm banjo fitting to -6an on the front of the block that we spoke about in addition to venting the head.

....Eh, I'll probably just do the modifications to utilize the -10an's on the head now, as I feel like I'd be half-assing it if I didn't.

Like you said, 6's may cut it, but 8's or 10's would be ideal.

Thank you for your knowledge, good sir.
Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:19 PM
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I would suggest venting the block as much as possible. Venting from the valve cover only, will cause oil to have a harder time getting back to the pan. We use a -6 on the dipstick tube and one on the front of the block along with the head vents.

-Em
Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Em, thanks for the response! My understanding of the dipstick tube vent is that because the dip stick is in the sump you would be pushing oil and pressure out of the crankcase rather than keeping the oil in the sump.

What are your thoughts on this matter?
Old Apr 24, 2012, 11:24 PM
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Well be doin ur baffles on my drill press lol u can be the Ginny pig
Old Apr 25, 2012, 03:17 AM
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Originally Posted by EmeryatSTM
I would suggest venting the block as much as possible. Venting from the valve cover only, will cause oil to have a harder time getting back to the pan. We use a -6 on the dipstick tube and one on the front of the block along with the head vents.
-Em
Are you using the balance shaft "inspection hole" on the front of the block?
M8 hole?
Old Apr 25, 2012, 05:52 AM
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The dip stick tube sits above oil level so you should not have much of a problem. Yes we use the inspection hole on the front of the bock. Here is a link to the fitting we use.




http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...er_fitting.htm


-Em
Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by stanlsha
Well be doin ur baffles on my drill press lol u can be the Ginny pig
Be VERY careful. If you look close, you need to drill/tap the valve cover at a SLIGHT angle, ask me how I know...

Better done by hand with a palm drill.
Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:14 AM
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really?? can u explain why this is is that the way the rivets are in there now? im not home to check my vc but they seemed relatively straight last i checked
Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:15 AM
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i probably over looked the angle though lol not challenging your statement just wondering why that is so
Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:42 AM
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I'll be using a -6an vent off the block and STM rear valve cover -6an fitting to dual Saikou Michi OCCs, both routed back into the intake with two 1/2" ports to pull vacuum once I get a breather can for the 2 -8an ports off the side my valve cover. Current setup is the STM rear port to the I/M with a check valve and the two -8an ports to the Saikou Michi OCCs. The reason I need all this is that when I had my block machined to get a ptw clearance of .004" on my Wiseco 85mm pistons, my ring gaps were around .024 top and .029 bottom right out of the package so it gets a lot of blow by. With 700whp, I don't think -6an ports will get the job done.
Old Apr 25, 2012, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by stanlsha
really?? can u explain why this is is that the way the rivets are in there now? im not home to check my vc but they seemed relatively straight last i checked
Originally Posted by stanlsha
i probably over looked the angle though lol not challenging your statement just wondering why that is so
Just look at it later, it'll make more sense. Some are angled as I recall, some are not. Just match the angle of your drill bit to the angle of the material you're drilling into. It's a SMALL angle.

I was very tired when I drilled mine and did not initally notice the angle. The first one I drilled, the drill bit went thru the cover (no big deal, it'll be covered up, it's one of the inside ones). I angled the drill and reduced the depth to 1/2" for the remaining 19, no issues.
Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by EmeryatSTM
The dip stick tube sits above oil level so you should not have much of a problem. Yes we use the inspection hole on the front of the bock. Here is a link to the fitting we use.




http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...er_fitting.htm


-Em
Where/ what do you run the line to. I want to reduce my case pressure.
Old Apr 25, 2012, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by okevolutionVIII
I'll be using a -6an vent off the block and STM rear valve cover -6an fitting to dual Saikou Michi OCCs, both routed back into the intake with two 1/2" ports to pull vacuum once I get a breather can for the 2 -8an ports off the side my valve cover. Current setup is the STM rear port to the I/M with a check valve and the two -8an ports to the Saikou Michi OCCs. The reason I need all this is that when I had my block machined to get a ptw clearance of .004" on my Wiseco 85mm pistons, my ring gaps were around .024 top and .029 bottom right out of the package so it gets a lot of blow by. With 700whp, I don't think -6an ports will get the job done.
It looks like just doing the -10ans from the get go will be the smart decision. Thanks for your input!

Originally Posted by TurboTravis
Just look at it later, it'll make more sense. Some are angled as I recall, some are not. Just match the angle of your drill bit to the angle of the material you're drilling into. It's a SMALL angle.

I was very tired when I drilled mine and did not initally notice the angle. The first one I drilled, the drill bit went thru the cover (no big deal, it'll be covered up, it's one of the inside ones). I angled the drill and reduced the depth to 1/2" for the remaining 19, no issues.
Thanks for the warning! I'll surely be careful. What size did you drill/tap with/to?


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