I'd never do that. It was working perfect before the head swap so you know it works like it should. Take a pic of the camgears and valve cover and also the crank pulley and timing cover so we can see what it looks like at tdc

 

sorry it took so long, been busy at work

here's before i moved the gear back, ya i know these pics





and here's the after

 

Its 1 tooth further apart on the after picture.

 

ya the after means after i moved it back a tooth since the code its throwing says mivec is advanced so i pushed it back one but still getting the code so im stumped

 

o i anarchy wanted lower cover and pulley pics ill try to get those too

 

To me, it looks 1 tooth off in the before picture, and after is 2 teeth off. It might be the angle of the picture though. I know with timing chains, there should be a certain number of links between the gears, does the FSM have the same for the number of notches in the timing belt?

 

hmm im going to bump this since im still stumped

 

The MIVEC gear is a little tricky to time in but its essential to be able to keep the tension on it, the tensioner pulley and the crank from moving while timing these in. That last pic of the MIVEC gear shows she's one tooth counter clockwise from proper timing. There will never be a time where the MIVEC gear will make itself a full tooth away from the exhaust cam while static. When you time them in you have to have the MIVEC gear to the right of the timing mark just a tad while making sure the exhaust cam timing mark on its gear is lined up. I say this because once you begin to tension the belt correctly it will tighten against the intake cam (MIVEC in this case) and will roll it back to the correct tooth by the time you have the correct tension on the belt. This is also before you release the pin on the tensioner. I hope that helps.

 

ok cool that's what i was looking for, thanks ill give it a shot. Also when you say move the gear to the right, should i use the marks on the cam to keep the cam at tdc, or does the whole thing move the right, as in the cam and the gear?

 

You can actually leave the cam alone since MIVEC will use oil pressure to sort out the cam's orientation once rotation has begun. So all you have to do is end up with the marks lined up on the gears. Also what I like to do is take wood vise grips (plastic self locking type) and put them on the exhaust gear with the belt on it and lined up with the crank being at TDC. This tends to help the crank timing cog not move the gear so much when sorting everything out and tensioning the belt after you have the intake cam gear situated.

 

i dont know about moving the gear to another tooth but on my toyota corolla i had that code it needed a cam gear. it would make cold start rattle.. i mean like an over night cold start rattle. but make sure u are getting oil to the cam gear