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help with stuttering/hiccups between 2500-4000 rpm

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Old Jun 22, 2012, 05:23 PM
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Question help with stuttering/hiccups between 2500-4000 rpm

im having these issues now and it seems to be worse at times then not as bad, ive messed with differnt plugs, differnt gaps, my main prob before was the buschur double pumper was leaking fuel and pressure all over the place since then i fixed it and prob went away now it seems to slowing be creeping back ( driveability issue that is ) and idk where to look. I even went back over the double pumper as in made sure everything was tight and no leaks, can anyone give any ideas or tips of what they think or have had this issue?

also it seems if im driving and i let off the gas to start to slow down or take a turn and the sec i go to press the gas again its as if theres a couple sec delay before the car starts moving like a " dead spot " in between 2500-4k rpm then after that delay thats when it gets all finicky then u have to really give it gas and start building boost then the cars fine, some ppl say " ohh thats just the nature of the car its highly modded what do u expect" but theres no way it can be that bad its almost impossible to just cruise / relax with it or else it does it and starts to hesitate sputter till u jump on it and bring the rpms up then it clears out! It sucks cause the way i HAVE to drive it i go through gas alll the time id like to be able to shift below 3-4k sometimes ....

mods are as followed..

built 2.0
stage 3 head
jun cams
ported stock intak mani / throttle body
1200 inj. perrin fuel rail
tial vta bov
double pumper
spoolin up cop
race fm
hta 35r w/.63

car has hks vpro / w / knock amp on it

Last edited by 1badgsex; Jun 26, 2012 at 01:47 PM.
Old Jun 23, 2012, 07:52 PM
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I would scope your TPS to makesure there isnt a deadspot in the sweep to WOT
Old Jun 23, 2012, 07:59 PM
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++1 for the tps sensor. Sometimes check engine light will come on tho . Good luck
Old Jun 23, 2012, 08:01 PM
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What does your wideband read in the problem area? Since you were having fuel issues before I would start there...

Do you have an aftermarket fpr? Have you hooked up a gauge to set fuel pressure?
Old Jun 24, 2012, 06:14 AM
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ok, sorta sounds like what I was dealing with about a month ago. I would be cruising and my car would have these dead spots. Id go wot with it and it would be fine. Sometimes the car would die at stops when it was doing it.

My solution, and I dont know how really haha. Someone mentioned to check my coolant temp sensor. The one that throws your ecu readings. I had an extra from another motor, so I swapped it out. Ive never had an issue since.

Something to think about.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 06:22 PM
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flymx771 i did have a areomotive reg but when back to stock a while ago that helped a bit, the wideband reads normal it jumps around when spooling up then goes to 10.5 to 11.xx on WOT,

tsidrift1 i like that idea on the temp sensor im just worried about it changing my tune cause the cars fuel trim is based off of coolant temp correct ? also i have hks vpro so theres no going into it and pulling out or adding fuel... everytime i want to change adjust stuff i have to got to ivey and im pretty sure ill get charged every time so im trying to figure out everything and make sure ive gone over everything before i go back for him to check it out and put it back on dyno.

i never get any check engine lights and how can i check it or see if its bad ? cause now that i think of it that does make sense and i could see it having a dead spot in the sweep of it !
Old Jun 25, 2012, 05:22 PM
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If you dont have a scope you can use a multimeter. There should be a 5volt refrence wire, a signal wire (this is what the red lead of the meter goes to), and a ground (from the PCM black lead goes here). Warm up the engine then kill it. Set your meter to DC volts < 10v Turn the ignition on and open the throttle body slowly and look at the voltage. It should rise on the way to WOT. You can also test the resistance between the signal wire and PCM ground. Make sure you unpug it if you test this way

Last edited by allanawe; Jun 25, 2012 at 05:34 PM.
Old Jun 26, 2012, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by allanawe
If you dont have a scope you can use a multimeter. There should be a 5volt refrence wire, a signal wire (this is what the red lead of the meter goes to), and a ground (from the PCM black lead goes here). Warm up the engine then kill it. Set your meter to DC volts < 10v Turn the ignition on and open the throttle body slowly and look at the voltage. It should rise on the way to WOT. You can also test the resistance between the signal wire and PCM ground. Make sure you unpug it if you test this way

ok cool thanks for that im gonna try it out, and if it has dead spots i should see the numbers jump around or fall? im actually leaning more towards a bad or on its way out o2 sensor cause it does it intermittently, i actually just put a washer in my tial bov and ran direct vacuum lines, and swapped out my spoolin up cop to stock jyst to see and it got 50% better driveabilty wise so im gonna send my cop back to spooling for him to test the coils and go over them in the mean time im tryin to eliminate every possible thing before i take it back to ivey and have him out it on the dyno .... thanks again for the help !
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