aggieEVO

iTrader: (11)

Hey Guys,

I have an 03 coming to my garage mid September. It has a blown bottom end that I'll be replacing. I have a good one on my stand and have a couple questions.

I believe the block has about 47k on it. I pulled the girdle and rod caps and will be replacing the bearings.

First, should I go back with OEM or should I pick up some ACL?

Second, I'll be using ARP main bolts, but am a little concerned about the rod bolts. My plan was to use ARPs in the rods, but now I'm scratching my head as to how to remove the stock bolts from the rods. I seriously doubt I should reuse the stock ones. I'd prefer to not remove the piston/rod from the car.

FYI, I doubt this car will ever see more than 400hp.

Thanks! Very excited to finally be getting into an EVO.

Brady

WHTEVO

iTrader: (18)

For starters, you are not going to want to just buy a set of standard bearings and put them in. The stock sizes vary. So if you want to just put some fresh bearings in while the pan is off, you are going to want to match up the bearing marks and the marks on the block to get the correct OEM ones. Otherwise, get it all clearanced to match a set of aftermarket bearings. If it was me, i would just build it while it was out of the car and taken apart.

Second, you will need to press out the OEM studs in the rods of you want to switch them out.

Make sure you check the clearances before buttoning it all back up, especially if you're going with some different hardware.

Good luck.

Aaron

aggieEVO

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the quick reply. I actually figured out how to get the rod bolts out pretty easily.

Will do on the bearings.

izabran

iTrader: (31)

The arp rod bolts are like 40 bucks and are better then stock so just swap them out one time... Plus acl are cheaper then stock I believe

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

I would throw in ACL main and rod bearings as they are cheap. Also have the main bore line honed with the new ARP main studs torqued to spec.

aggieEVO

iTrader: (11)

Okay, so I got my APR rod bearings in last night. Mains and heads will be in on Friday.

I picked up some green plastigauge to check it out. If OEM bearings are out of spec using ARP hardware, I'll just do some machining on the block.

Here's my question. ARP says 23 ftlbs on the rod bolts (maybe it was 26). FSM says 15ftlbs plus 90-degrees. I'm guessing I use ARP's numbers?

Also, anyone know clearance specs on the rod bearings off-hand? Are rods and mains the same? I think I read .002-.009 for the mains.

okevolutionVIII

iTrader: (71)

Use ARPs specs. Building my engine, I aimed for .0022-.0024 on the rods.

aggieEVO

iTrader: (11)

Let me ask another question. As I said, the block only has 47k on it. Bearings look fine. If the ARPs pull the clearance out of spec, would I be okay to pop the OEM bearings back in and use the stock hardware?

The reason I'm asking is because I really didn't want to put much into this block. My plan is to get the car running and then build ANOTHER block with a 2.3. I just thought it'd be simple to upgrade the hardware and replace bearings while I was in here. Seems like it's going to be a bit more costly than I thought.

Thoughts?

aggieEVO

iTrader: (11)

Okay, plastigauged the main bearings with the ARPs. Machine shop it is. I pulled the pistons this weekend. Rings look really good. No build up. The plan is to have the rods and mains machine for ACL bearings with the ARPs installed.

Moving on. I took the head apart this weekend to have it ready to be cleaned and to change the valve seals. I found 2 bent intake valves. The head came off a block that had thrown #2. Previous owner took the head to a shop and had them check it out. It would seem they didn't do a very good job.

My eye definitely sees a bent valve:



So, now I have to make some decisions on rebuild what I thought was going to be a good head. I'm probably going with bronze valve guides and new seals. My dilemma is now whether to go with all new valves (looking at Supertech or Built 4G63), or just to replace the 2 bent valves and call it a day. I'll get pricing from my machine shop. Any comments are welcome.

Seanc_wa

iTrader: (1)

If this is for a "customer" I would do this right or prepare your reputation in town to be completely ruined. Rebuild it correct, new bearings, new pistons, new valves, new seals, new rings, and everything machined to be in the correct tolerance.
Buy once, cry once.

aggieEVO

iTrader: (11)

Nope, this is going into my car. Seriously don't have that kind of money right now. In a coupe years I'll be building a stroker. The block only has 47k and I just wanted to freshen it up.

Block is getting machined for ACL bearings and is getting all APR hardware. I'm still debating on finding a torque plate.

Head should be fine with 2 new intake valves and all new seals and guides. I'll have everything checked out, but all the other should be in good shape.

dastallion951

with your valve question, i guess you have to ask yourself a few questions:
whats your rpm rev limit? what kinda cams are you going to use? Personally if you bent a few valves, i would just put in new valve guides stem seals, but i would replace all valves with a set of std size ones, and some good springs/retainers. From experience you try to shortchange a few parts to save money, youll be right back in the same situation except a lot more broke. IMO spend it right first time, put it on a credit card or another. Otherwise then what happens.... Not to get you down i had to have my engine rebuilt before, and a head gasket swap due to oil seeping out the back. Now I had a shop do it, but I also told them I didnt want any parts shortchanged. Now 40k later shifting to 8k everyday, not a problem with any internals. I know your rebuilding it yourself, but if you rebuilt it right there should be no weak links in the engine. Itll take under 400 hp for at least another 100k. Double check your measurements though.
Good luck