CharlieGsanD

iTrader: (1)

most likely corrosion on the dowel pins.


a little misalignment when removing the trans can also cause the dowels to bind up


spray a little penetrating lube on the back side of the dowel & let it soak. then push trans flush against the block & START separating @ the trouble spot.

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Just to provide an opinion on what my first reaction was when I saw your pics, is that you have the block supported with a jack, not allowing it to flex downward. Then your trans is hanging off the end of it, and I suspect its not support in exacdtly the same way.

If the dowels have any angle to them they will bind the two units together. I had my engine hanging in the passenger side mount and nothing else and the eng/trans combo tilting down to the trans. This is necessary to get the 6 speed out because its bigger. One thing I remember is that even though everything was unbolted I still needed to wedge to to apart with a lot of force. However, I had the trans supported on the very end just slightly so that it was essentially free to 'fall' onto the jack. We also supported the trans from above with a ghetto fab 2x4 brace to hang it. The point was so that it would be free to align straight with the engine so that it could pop off.

You may want to make sure that the block and trans are perfectly in line while you pry the trans off past the dowels. The shaft through the pressure plate is loner than you think and the angle mentioned about is also a factor here, and won't let you pull the two apart, because you are binding them together by the shaft being just slightly askew.

lowevo8

Thanks fo the info...I was just following evomoto's clutch install guide to help with the removal and it mentioned to have the block/trans tilted down at an angle to remove it out the drivers side wheel well. It is a 5 speed if that makes a difference...and the jack under the block isnt actually holding it up, it is just there for support when the trans gets seperated from the block since the only thing holding them up is the pass side motor mount. I will try to raise it up a bit and shoot some pb blaster in there then try to pull it off flush keeping in mind the length of the shaft through the pressure plate. Thanks again guys for all of your input and help!

lowevo8

And i also have a jack with some 2x4's under the base of the tranny, the only thing holding it up isnt the motor mount...i am sure that sounded bad.

eXtreme-Speed

iTrader: (7)

I would just put carboard on the jack because when that tranny breaks loose u better be ready to catch it if it slips. lol its 150 pounds here.

The best way i could tell you to get it off is get a jack under the trans pretty much touching it. Now have a friend with a prybar get in there and start prying on both sides. Now the tough part. While he is prying you get under there and push on that trans as much as you can. Up down left right, whatever it takes. lol Just because and make sure you have a good sturdy jack to catch the trans. I had my jack touch the trans when i pulled mine out.

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Yes, they say to tilt it, because of clearance, at least for the 6 speed, however, the centerline through both units, the block and the trans needs to be perfectly straight. In your pics I see the trans hanging down off of the block so there is a 5 degree or more bend in the imaginary centerline of the two units. This effectively locks the two together.

You need to support the trans to be perfectly level with the block, just tilt it enough to clear the driver side frame rail, but if you do tilt it, support the trans end well. I had supports under both the block and trans, and both were jacks so I could adjust incrementally. They were jacks with blocks of wood for the height and then I could adjust or wiggle with the jack strength too.

The other time I did it I 'hung' the trans off of a 2x4 T created by strut tower points and the front rail. I don't think this complexity is necessary, but the idea is to make the two units completely true to each other, and then use your pry bar. Once you have it started past the dowels it will be easier and easier and the angle can get loser and sloppier.

If you think its binding on something mechanically and its not the angle, prove it, by raising the trans end more than the block in the opposite direction as your pics indicate. if you can do this you prove that nothing dowel or casing wise is holding it and its just the angle or release clip. If you can't get the same gap below when the top it flush, then you have something in the lower casing binding. A silly example would be, you forgot to take a blot out the bottom. Not saying that is actually the case, just a mechanical example.

I think your issue is leveling the two units with respect to each other.

lowevo8

I will have to completely agree with you, I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything while doing considering it is my first time. A friend of mine is actually finally coming through for me and letting me borrow his cherry picker which will make this job 1,000,000 times easier. Thanks and will keep this updated

lowevo8

So I finally separated the tranny from the block! The engine hoist made the world of difference and since I am planning on putting the same clutch back in after resurfacing the flywheel of course, I have a question. Would it be wise to replace the TOB while doing this? or are there no advantages to doing this if it doesn't need it?

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

That is a wear item more or less, and sometimes folks have to pull the tranny just to replace that. When I just did my 'build' that was one item I forgot to order, so when the day came to put the tranny and TC back in, I ended up doing it with the old TOB, and its OK. But the more conservative approach is to replace that even if its fine or looks fine. I believe its like 40-50 bucks for a mitsu one. So, I would do it if you have the choice.

evoe85

try getting to the flywheel bolts and everything will go just fine... unlesss you could modify a 10mm wrench and try removing the long bar that holds the fork

evo9_860

iTrader: (4)

This is what I ended up having to do :/ such a pain