Hey guys,

I know where the knock sensor is located, and it's very easy to access with the engine out of the car, but what's the easiest way to get at it with the engine inside the car? I have a IX, so the MIVEC line is underneath, and the water pipe runs over the top.

Any suggestions on how to replace the sensor without removing the water pipe?

Thanks!

 

Just out of curiosity, did you blow it, or did it just crap out? Or are you replacing with a different?

 

I am trying to replace the knock sensor as a troubleshooting method for ruling out some knock issues I have been having. I strongly believe the knock is not real, and want to try replacing the sensor as my next step of ruling out problems one at a time.

 

Nobody?

 

No experience changing one while on the car, but possibly a socket similar to an o2 sensor socket that is slotted so you can have clearance for the wire.

 

Pull the intake manifold for clearance. Unless you have really small arms/hands, then you can pull the battery tray.

 

I replaced the knock sensor last year or 2 ago without removing anything. I have pretty big hands, but they were pretty beat up afterwards. What I did do however, is buy a cheap deep socket, and used a grinder and whizzed a slot in it. This allowed the socket over the sensor, and the wire out the side.

That with an extension and you arm in underneath the IM. Either by the TB side, or under the FPS side.

I was somewhat familiar with the space and objects in there, because I have done the clutch, and that rear mount is the ***** and you learn everything around there because you leave skin there.

You can get your arm in there, and with the right extension and a medium sized 3/8 wrench you can get just enough room to get a couple of clicks off. Then you will use your hands to spin it off.

It will help to remove the nearest wire clip to allow the knock sensor wire to twist up while you are unscrewing it. Either way you have to eventually unclip it anyway. The rest you want to feel it twisting up on the way out, is because you will inevitably be doing that on the way in with the new one.

Its totally doable with everything in the car. At that time I did not have the EGR delete like my sig notes by the way. It was totally stock with all brackets.

If you need a pick of the socket I made let me know and I will go snap one.

 

I went through this some time ago, and the two best options have already been listed. Either remove the IM, or make a socket. I chose the latter.

I will point out that although i don't know what your knock issue is, if it's ghost knock, get your exhaust system double and triple checked for leaks. I had a nasty leak that wouldn't appear until about 4000rpm, and at that point the car was too loud to hear it... gave me 36 knock sum every time, and cost me a good sensor too!

 

Myron makes a good point. I exchanged my sensor and it wasn't the cause. So I did that whole drill for nothing. So, it may be worth identifying what else could be going on. I'd suggest that before taking the IM off. That could start a whole different set of tasks, if its never been off, and you have never done that.

 

Thanks guys, but I've already done the following:

Removed solid mounts and put factory ones in.
Modified alternator bracket that was rubbing water pump (different on 2.1L motor).
Checked all IC piping.
Checked/removed exhaust.
Checked Wastegate for leaks.
Checked driveshaft for too much play.
Checked plugs, replaced plugs, re-gapped plugs.
New plug wires and coils.
Pulled and added timing (AFRs are spot on).

....Nothing has made a difference. So I'm down to the knock sensor and possibly flow-benching my injectors.. Sucks that I've found no resolve yet.


Anyone know what size socket I need so I can go buy one and mod it?

 

Have you adjusted the knock tables to make them a little less sensitive in that area? Have you run some race gas, just to see if that clears up the knock?

I also found this post stating that you can notch a deep socket 27mm. Some others in that thread also recommended going at it from under the car with some crazy extensions. I have not attempted this though. Here is the post....

 

I took the passengers side axle out about 10-15 mins then u will have to take the bracket off that supports the manifold and a few plastic sensor clips and u can easily (I say easily but u have to reach over the transfer case some, but it's not to bad) get in there with a slotted socket. On a stock evo there is a lot of vacuum lines and bs to take the manifold off ur talking hours of time. I did the whole job start to finish in no more than 30-45 mins. I've also had my axles out numerous times and no support bracket on the back of my Intake mani. Thats just how I did it.

 

I've taken mine out from underneath with a crescent wrench. Put it back in the same way using my torque arm. Snug but not overly tight. I've done quite a few this way without issue.