2.3 stroker build parts suggestions
Sep 26, 2012, 04:53 AM
#1
2.3 stroker build parts suggestions
Hey guys, I'm putting together a parts list for a 2.3 stroker build for my AWD Mirage project. Goal is to make 600-650 at the wheels RELIABLY on 93oct or at least get as close as possible. (supporting chassis/drivetrain mods will be taken care of) Looking to build a good street/track/tail of the dragon car and I want to be able to daily this car if I so choose. (I have a 2012 WRX hatch daily, but if I want to take the car on a trip I want to be able too) I already have a few parts, but I still need a lot and I haven't decided on everything yet; so here is my parts list. (boltons will be decided later) Feel free to scrutinize! 
(except my daily, it is closed for scrutinization. 
)
What I have:
Stock bore Evo VIII block
Cosworth main/thrust/rod bearings
ARP main studs
stock Evo IV head for upgrading
Most of an Evo IV including all the rare bits. I'd like to retain the factory antilag kit as well. (you guys may have seen my build already, if not it's in my sig)
Plan to buy:
Carrillo steel H-beam rods (w/ Carr rod bolt rated to 1000+hp)
Manley Billet 100mm crank
Wiseco 1400HD pistons for 2.3 stroker (9.0:1)
Ferrea Competition Plus valves
Supertech Valve Guides
Supertech Valve Stem Seals
Kiggly Racing Beehive Springs
Kiggly Racing HLA Regulator
ARP L19 Head Studs
FLUIDAMPR Harmonic Balancer
Tomei Oil Slicing Baffle
Undecided:
Not sure what cams I'm going with yet.
Not sure what turbo I'll go with yet either but I was told a PTE 6266 would make me happy haha.
(except my daily, it is closed for scrutinization. )What I have:
Stock bore Evo VIII block
Cosworth main/thrust/rod bearings
ARP main studs
stock Evo IV head for upgrading
Most of an Evo IV including all the rare bits. I'd like to retain the factory antilag kit as well. (you guys may have seen my build already, if not it's in my sig)
Plan to buy:
Carrillo steel H-beam rods (w/ Carr rod bolt rated to 1000+hp)
Manley Billet 100mm crank
Wiseco 1400HD pistons for 2.3 stroker (9.0:1)
Ferrea Competition Plus valves
Supertech Valve Guides
Supertech Valve Stem Seals
Kiggly Racing Beehive Springs
Kiggly Racing HLA Regulator
ARP L19 Head Studs
FLUIDAMPR Harmonic Balancer
Tomei Oil Slicing Baffle
Undecided:
Not sure what cams I'm going with yet.
Not sure what turbo I'll go with yet either but I was told a PTE 6266 would make me happy haha.
Last edited by Alchem1st; Sep 29, 2012 at 11:13 PM.
Sep 26, 2012, 09:50 AM
#2
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i would ditch the fluidampr and spend the extra cash towards a billet crank.i've seen some breakage of the OEM 100mm cranks lately.i don't like the undercut journal at the throw.the 88mm seems to be OK but the 100mm can't take huge power as well.
if i had plans for pump gas only,i might go with 8:1 or 8.5:1 SCR.
get good valves and oem lifters bronze guides.
GSC S2 or S3 cams.S3 make more power but spool 200 rpm later.
6262 CEA is a great turbo 6466 CEA maybe even better.
if i had plans for pump gas only,i might go with 8:1 or 8.5:1 SCR.
get good valves and oem lifters bronze guides.
GSC S2 or S3 cams.S3 make more power but spool 200 rpm later.
6262 CEA is a great turbo 6466 CEA maybe even better.
Sep 26, 2012, 01:24 PM
#3
Well, I already got an OEM Mitsu 100mm crank so I'll probably just use it. Already had it deburred and micro polished. It only cost me the shipping from a friend so it didn't cost much. It's what all the big name builders use for their base stroker kits. I heard it was good to 800-900hp-ish which is way more than I plan to make. (though those were drag numbers not prolonged use numbers) The fluidampr may not be super necessary, but as I want the car to run reliably for a long time I figure it's best to upgrade the harmonic dampening a bit so I'll probably pick one up still. Supertech guides are bronze? I was thinking there was probably no need for aftermarket lifters but figured I'd make sure. For valves I was looking at Supertech black nitrite valves all around. Not sure yet though. Cams and turbo I'll have to look at some dyno graphs before I decide on the setup.
Sep 26, 2012, 02:32 PM
#5
True, but once again these cranks are used a lot on 2.3 builds and even though a few have failed that doesn't mean they are bad. You never know the circumstance for the failure. There are a lot of guys using these cranks out there with no trouble at all. Anyway, the only billet 100mm cranks I seem to find are the Manley and Eagle ones which I'm not a fan of those brands. Kinda cheap and I'd trust an OEM crank more than a cheap aftermarket one. It'd be different if a good company like Carrillo or Oliver or Howards or something made billet cranks for our cars. That said, I'll talk to my local shop (Fathouse Fab) and see what they recommend I guess. I still think that crank will be ok.
Sep 26, 2012, 03:10 PM
#6
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It's what all the big name builders use for their base stroker kits.
Kinda cheap and I'd trust an OEM crank more than a cheap aftermarket one
if you saw the manley billet next to the OEM,you would take this back.the OEM crank isn't even close to as strong as the manley billet.
i'm not trying to argue with you and you can use whatever crank you want,but i had an OEM break on me in a 2.3 and i think i know why,therefore i wouldn't use an OEM 100mm crank.
like i said the 88mm may hold up just fine to 800+whp and high revs,but i don't think the 100mm will last as long.the throws don't overlap as much and i think the rolled fillets with no overlap make the 100mm crank weaker than the 88mm.
the billet cranks are inherently way stronger than forged,i don't think anyone will argue that and the fillets are radiused for even more strength.this is all just my opinion and experience and i know you already have the crank and you are going to run it.i do hope it works for you.
So how good would saving $ on the crank feel when it lets go in the middle of a road trip.
it will end up costing 10 times more than the billet crank.
Sep 26, 2012, 03:25 PM
#7
AMS won't sell the 2.3 stroker with an OEM crank anymore.i asked them if it was from breakage and the question was kind of skirted,but why else right?they now sell their 2.3 kits with a billet crank from Manley.
if you saw the manley billet next to the OEM,you would take this back.the OEM crank isn't even close to as strong as the manley billet.
i'm not trying to argue with you and you can use whatever crank you want,but i had an OEM break on me in a 2.3 and i think i know why,therefore i wouldn't use an OEM 100mm crank.
like i said the 88mm may hold up just fine to 800+whp and high revs,but i don't think the 100mm will last as long.the throws don't overlap as much and i think the rolled fillets with no overlap make the 100mm crank weaker than the 88mm.
the billet cranks are inherently way stronger than forged,i don't think anyone will argue that and the fillets are radiused for even more strength.this is all just my opinion and experience and i know you already have the crank and you are going to run it.i do hope it works for you.
if you saw the manley billet next to the OEM,you would take this back.the OEM crank isn't even close to as strong as the manley billet.
i'm not trying to argue with you and you can use whatever crank you want,but i had an OEM break on me in a 2.3 and i think i know why,therefore i wouldn't use an OEM 100mm crank.
like i said the 88mm may hold up just fine to 800+whp and high revs,but i don't think the 100mm will last as long.the throws don't overlap as much and i think the rolled fillets with no overlap make the 100mm crank weaker than the 88mm.
the billet cranks are inherently way stronger than forged,i don't think anyone will argue that and the fillets are radiused for even more strength.this is all just my opinion and experience and i know you already have the crank and you are going to run it.i do hope it works for you.
Hmm, I didn't know this about AMS. I still would prefer a better name than Eagle or Manley. I'm open to switching out cranks as much as I don't want to have too; but I would still prefer a better name part than Eagle or Manley. I saw a company called k1 makes a billet 100mm crank for our cars but I'm not familiar with them either really. Surely someone else out there makes one? If nothing else, I guess I will consider the Manley billet.
Last edited by Alchem1st; Sep 26, 2012 at 03:28 PM.
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Sep 26, 2012, 04:32 PM
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http://www.carzcustom.com/products/products.htm
scroll down to the 3rd or 4th item and you will see the Winberg crank.i hear they are excellent.the K1 is good as well and costs the same as the Manley.i think the Manley is good as well.they have been building race parts forever and i hear their stuff is actually pretty good.
you could have the machinist inspect the crank shaft upon delivery to make sure it is as advertised.
you may even be fine with the OEM 100mm.i just know what happened to mine.it's sitting in 2 pieces on the garage floor right now and broke right where the journal meets the throw.if you looks closely at the 100mm crank,you can see that there is basically zero overlap from journal to journal,and the OEM cranks have roll cut fillets,which means they are undercut .020" right where the journal meets the throw(where mine broke).the aftermarket cranks have radiused fillets,meaning they get bigger going into the throw instead of smaller.
sorry if my terminology is off in my description.i am still trying to learn about this stuff and honestly i could be wrong,but the 100mm OEM just looks inherently weak.
i would like to hear some experienced engine builders weigh in on this topic b/c i know that there are a lot of 2.3 strokers out there with OEM cranks.
scroll down to the 3rd or 4th item and you will see the Winberg crank.i hear they are excellent.the K1 is good as well and costs the same as the Manley.i think the Manley is good as well.they have been building race parts forever and i hear their stuff is actually pretty good.
you could have the machinist inspect the crank shaft upon delivery to make sure it is as advertised.
you may even be fine with the OEM 100mm.i just know what happened to mine.it's sitting in 2 pieces on the garage floor right now and broke right where the journal meets the throw.if you looks closely at the 100mm crank,you can see that there is basically zero overlap from journal to journal,and the OEM cranks have roll cut fillets,which means they are undercut .020" right where the journal meets the throw(where mine broke).the aftermarket cranks have radiused fillets,meaning they get bigger going into the throw instead of smaller.
sorry if my terminology is off in my description.i am still trying to learn about this stuff and honestly i could be wrong,but the 100mm OEM just looks inherently weak.
i would like to hear some experienced engine builders weigh in on this topic b/c i know that there are a lot of 2.3 strokers out there with OEM cranks.
Sep 26, 2012, 05:42 PM
#9
http://www.carzcustom.com/products/products.htm
scroll down to the 3rd or 4th item and you will see the Winberg crank.i hear they are excellent.the K1 is good as well and costs the same as the Manley.i think the Manley is good as well.they have been building race parts forever and i hear their stuff is actually pretty good.
you could have the machinist inspect the crank shaft upon delivery to make sure it is as advertised.
you may even be fine with the OEM 100mm.i just know what happened to mine.it's sitting in 2 pieces on the garage floor right now and broke right where the journal meets the throw.if you looks closely at the 100mm crank,you can see that there is basically zero overlap from journal to journal,and the OEM cranks have roll cut fillets,which means they are undercut .020" right where the journal meets the throw(where mine broke).the aftermarket cranks have radiused fillets,meaning they get bigger going into the throw instead of smaller.
sorry if my terminology is off in my description.i am still trying to learn about this stuff and honestly i could be wrong,but the 100mm OEM just looks inherently weak.
i would like to hear some experienced engine builders weigh in on this topic b/c i know that there are a lot of 2.3 strokers out there with OEM cranks.
scroll down to the 3rd or 4th item and you will see the Winberg crank.i hear they are excellent.the K1 is good as well and costs the same as the Manley.i think the Manley is good as well.they have been building race parts forever and i hear their stuff is actually pretty good.
you could have the machinist inspect the crank shaft upon delivery to make sure it is as advertised.
you may even be fine with the OEM 100mm.i just know what happened to mine.it's sitting in 2 pieces on the garage floor right now and broke right where the journal meets the throw.if you looks closely at the 100mm crank,you can see that there is basically zero overlap from journal to journal,and the OEM cranks have roll cut fillets,which means they are undercut .020" right where the journal meets the throw(where mine broke).the aftermarket cranks have radiused fillets,meaning they get bigger going into the throw instead of smaller.
sorry if my terminology is off in my description.i am still trying to learn about this stuff and honestly i could be wrong,but the 100mm OEM just looks inherently weak.
i would like to hear some experienced engine builders weigh in on this topic b/c i know that there are a lot of 2.3 strokers out there with OEM cranks.
Thanks for the pm. That Winberg crank is NASTY! A bit outta my range though, my max is 2k for a good crank. Welp, might just see about that Manley crank; but I'll have a talk with Fathouse first and see what they think.
Sep 27, 2012, 12:09 AM
#10
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I like the ferrea competition plus valves , we use them in our sprint and our tarmac race , Im surprised no one has harped on about rod choice , personally I think you have chosen a great rod.
PS get
the winberg its the best money I ever spent, ha crank **** hell yea
PS get
the winberg its the best money I ever spent, ha crank **** hell yea
Sep 29, 2012, 12:05 AM
#14
Hears a 100mm crank made by nitto in Australia, although be prepared to be let down by the price.
http://www.nitto.com.au/products/cra...ry=engineblock
http://www.nitto.com.au/products/cra...ry=engineblock