i would say so yes. he should know better to use a stretch gauge rather than a torque wrench when doing rod bolts.

next setup id go with manley turbo tuff i beam rods for safe measures. if you need any help feel free to pm me on parts etc.

Tom

 

looks like from my best guess you have a rod issue looks like it will buff right out and if not a pressure washer will get everything back in there. And if that doesnt work its NOTHING duck tape wont fix. LOL

Sorry dude omg my heart sank into my gut when I saw your pics. I am going to have a bad day today just for seeing this thread. I am SO SORRY for you man that really sucks. Blew up 5 dsm and 2 honda motors and 1 LS1 in my day so I know the sorrys don't really mean much. But damn

 

Boostfarmer, hahhaahhahaha you made my day, as they say, nothing that glue and sticky tape can't fix...

I've blow up **** before and never worried me, but this time when your married, got a 4yo kid and mortgage it not FUN at all, money does not flow that easily anymore....

TSCOMP: Will see what I'm going to do next, 1st thing I cneed to source an Evo block as getting stuff here in Australia is damm expensive, all my gear, rods,pistons, cams, etc etc was bought from USA as its 10 times cheaper..

I'm trying to chase down a set of used inlet&exhaust valves to replace the bent ones to keep cost down due to being BROKE and the best price so far is $200.00 here is OZ.... that's almost the same price for a new set in USA.

 

Exactly. I'm not sure how much love you're going to get from the builder, but I'd be hesitant to get the replacement engine built there.

You have some good evo-specialist workshops in Sydney I'd advise you to get the next motor built at one of them instead.

 

Try a Brain O Spilner and see if you can find a block out of a junk yard. Not sure how big the junk yards are down there mate but who knows you could get lucky since they had the evo 3 and up I believe over there could be wrong? But means there are more to be found in the pull yards. US only has 8-9 that will work =( not a lot in junkyards since people rebuild even the totaled of the totaled evos

 

Danggggg.

 

Hi Team

A few more pictures to check out, still having sleepless nights over this damm mess

So instead of building another engine I made the decision (dammm wife) to put a stock motor back in, yesterday I sourced a low mileage 30K Evo 8MR motor for under $3000.

I will just transfer the Valve springs/retainers + GSC S1 cams and 75mm turbo onto this motor and keep the horsepower/torque down abit. TSCOMP, look out you might get a PM soon to go over my tune and keep it safe for me please.

enjoy








Since I'm a noob, here is a pic of the top , any signs of det or does looks all good??


Rod escaped out of the baffle


Lots of shavings/bearings leftovers


crank journal, sorry about pics, damm flash on camera




Even the Balance shaft got bent, lol



I forgot to pull the other 3 caps of the rods, next week!!

 

If you source a 8/9 block have a look at a Nitto Performance Engineering kit (Stroker).
http://www.nitto.com.au/

It's made in Australia so it's home grown, you can check out there facebook page for an idea of what these internals push out.

Also I have a friend who is a dealer for them and may be able to get it close to cost price if you interested. Hit me up if so.

 

did the evo 7 come with an oil cooler? If so, i'd say it's time to get a new one when you put in that stock motor. Shame that this happened. Good luck.

 

looks like oil starvation that caused the failure. cant see very well from the pics but looks like the crank gally plug next to the rod that failed is missing. if it is that is what most likely caused your failure.

 

Tom


Evo 7-9 is basically the same car with some cosmetic difference and Mivec for the 9, besides that you wont be able to tell the difference really

 

i wish i could get an Evo 7 front bumper on my car. I think they look awesome

 

To the Original poster, Can you take pictures of the Crank once it is out showing all 4 rod journals.

It was definitely a clearance issue. Do you know what Rod bearing clearances were?

If the clearances were set on the loose side and you were running 10-40 then there is a recipe for disaster.

 

If the bearing clearances were too tight due to over torquing the rod caps that is a recipe for disaster as well...

 

Are the bearing tangs on the exhaust or intake side on the remaining rods?

Those journals do not look like bearings were spinning. Looks more like a dead stop like the bearings were backwards or to wide for the journals.