How would you know that the crank is going out? What are the symptoms? Does it just snap then you're SOL?

 

yes.

 

Curious about why this isn't popular. For half the price of a billet, I would think this would be a popular choice but everyone goes for the billet one. Is there something wrong with the forged version?

 

i have a forged, and i beat the living **** out of my car as much as possible. Until people hop in here saying the stories they've heard of the manley versions breaking I think the answer should be clear that a manley crank is worth it. With that said, I'd love to have a billet one, but couldn't justify the price at the time.

If MOST with OEMs are doing ok, and ALL with Manley are, I know the conclusion I would draw.

 

Fak! You mean Mikey's LR motor rocks the factory 100mm Mitsu crank?🈶

 

you get 3-4 times the strength for 2x the money.also less weight and better design.


i think the the forged is a popular chose though.

 

I wouldn't have been considering it until after I spoke with someone who is pretty knowledgeable on 2.4's

That and Spec-Ops offers a pretty good deal on 2.4's with the Forged option.

 

My motors have always had the OE crank as well Sparky.

At the time no one was really having issues so we didnt feel it was needed. The Eagle was an option at the time but requires some bearing machining to make it work with the I beams we run. These days we have started running the K1 and will see where that goes. Plenty of options out there though.

It clacks and/or the clutch wont disengage. Believe it or not Luke's car was drivable still after his broke. We thought it was a clutch malfunction and were pulling the trans to look at it when the crank was discovered.

 

Aaron: Considering that you guys built Mikey's motor(?), and since the beginning have been at the forefront in the development of 2.4LR engines. How important, in your view, is prep work(shot peening, magnafluxing, grinding and polishing bearing surfaces, and chamfering oil holes, etc.), when employing a used crank in a build? Is prep work all that important, or can a used OEM crank and an aged block just be tossed together and expected to last under combat conditions?

 

it's funny that you said this because my car did this exact same thing and i actually put about 50 miles on it with a 2 piece crank.mine was having trouble disengaging and then all of sudden it got real noisy and i thought the clutch had come apart.pulled motor/trans and the clutch was cooked,but still together.i knew i had a motor issue as well becasue it was smoking,but honestly thought it was minor,maybe rings or valve seals.i guess the 4G girdle system is pretty stout to hold everything together after breaking in two.

 

We have them magnafluxed and micropolished but thats it. For high torque stuff these days we will still offer it both ways but we do recommend an aftermarket crankshaft.

As far as lasting we have only had 2 fail and neither destroyed the motor just required a new crank. Mine have worked so far but like anything it could be "golden goose syndrome" for me or just bad luck for the other 2. Dave wont build OE 100mm stuff because he has seen more break than we have. I have a feeling its a batch issue because the fracture is identical in shape (really strange actually) between the 2.

Aaron

 

After discussing broken cranks with Aaron a few weeks back, it seems as the one that I saw was broken in the same area/type of fracture...

 

Besides the whole clutch disengaging issue, are there any other symptoms?

 

It seems like for the peace of mind building a stroker 2.3L or 2.4L going with a billet crank is the way to go. I guess I'll be going with a K1 crank for my 2.3L.

 

I'll put pix up of the 2 I have tomorrow.