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What is the most whp made on a 2.4L with 100mm crank?

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Old Oct 29, 2012 | 08:38 PM
  #16  
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How would you know that the crank is going out? What are the symptoms? Does it just snap then you're SOL?
Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:07 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jessmanEVO
How would you know that the crank is going out? What are the symptoms? Does it just snap then you're SOL?
yes.
Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SmurfZilla
Just spend the 600 and get a Forged Crank from Manley and not worry about it.
Curious about why this isn't popular. For half the price of a billet, I would think this would be a popular choice but everyone goes for the billet one. Is there something wrong with the forged version?
Old Oct 29, 2012 | 09:40 PM
  #19  
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i have a forged, and i beat the living **** out of my car as much as possible. Until people hop in here saying the stories they've heard of the manley versions breaking I think the answer should be clear that a manley crank is worth it. With that said, I'd love to have a billet one, but couldn't justify the price at the time.

If MOST with OEMs are doing ok, and ALL with Manley are, I know the conclusion I would draw.
Old Oct 29, 2012 | 11:13 PM
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Fak! You mean Mikey's LR motor rocks the factory 100mm Mitsu crank?🈶
Old Oct 29, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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Curious about why this isn't popular. For half the price of a billet, I would think this would be a popular choice but everyone goes for the billet one. Is there something wrong with the forged version?
you get 3-4 times the strength for 2x the money.also less weight and better design.


i think the the forged is a popular chose though.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #22  
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I wouldn't have been considering it until after I spoke with someone who is pretty knowledgeable on 2.4's

That and Spec-Ops offers a pretty good deal on 2.4's with the Forged option.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 07:58 AM
  #23  
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My motors have always had the OE crank as well Sparky.

Originally Posted by sparky
Fak! You mean Mikey's LR motor rocks the factory 100mm Mitsu crank?��
At the time no one was really having issues so we didnt feel it was needed. The Eagle was an option at the time but requires some bearing machining to make it work with the I beams we run. These days we have started running the K1 and will see where that goes. Plenty of options out there though.

Originally Posted by jessmanEVO
How would you know that the crank is going out? What are the symptoms? Does it just snap then you're SOL?
It clacks and/or the clutch wont disengage. Believe it or not Luke's car was drivable still after his broke. We thought it was a clutch malfunction and were pulling the trans to look at it when the crank was discovered.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:34 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JohnBradley
My motors have always had the OE crank as well Sparky.....
Aaron: Considering that you guys built Mikey's motor(?), and since the beginning have been at the forefront in the development of 2.4LR engines. How important, in your view, is prep work(shot peening, magnafluxing, grinding and polishing bearing surfaces, and chamfering oil holes, etc.), when employing a used crank in a build? Is prep work all that important, or can a used OEM crank and an aged block just be tossed together and expected to last under combat conditions?

Last edited by sparky; Oct 30, 2012 at 09:24 AM.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #25  
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It clacks and/or the clutch wont disengage. Believe it or not Luke's car was drivable still after his broke. We thought it was a clutch malfunction and were pulling the trans to look at it when the crank was discovered.

it's funny that you said this because my car did this exact same thing and i actually put about 50 miles on it with a 2 piece crank.mine was having trouble disengaging and then all of sudden it got real noisy and i thought the clutch had come apart.pulled motor/trans and the clutch was cooked,but still together.i knew i had a motor issue as well becasue it was smoking,but honestly thought it was minor,maybe rings or valve seals.i guess the 4G girdle system is pretty stout to hold everything together after breaking in two.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by sparky
Aaron: Considering that you guys built Mikey's motor(?), and since the beginning have been at the forefront in the development of 2.4LR engines. How important, in your view, is prep work(shot peening, magnafluxing, grinding and polishing bearing surfaces, and chamfering oil holes, etc.), when employing a used crank in a build? Is prep work all that important, or can a used OEM crank and an aged block just be tossed together and expected to last under combat conditions?
We have them magnafluxed and micropolished but thats it. For high torque stuff these days we will still offer it both ways but we do recommend an aftermarket crankshaft.

As far as lasting we have only had 2 fail and neither destroyed the motor just required a new crank. Mine have worked so far but like anything it could be "golden goose syndrome" for me or just bad luck for the other 2. Dave wont build OE 100mm stuff because he has seen more break than we have. I have a feeling its a batch issue because the fracture is identical in shape (really strange actually) between the 2.

Aaron
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:45 AM
  #27  
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After discussing broken cranks with Aaron a few weeks back, it seems as the one that I saw was broken in the same area/type of fracture...
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 11:59 AM
  #28  
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Besides the whole clutch disengaging issue, are there any other symptoms?
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 01:18 PM
  #29  
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It seems like for the peace of mind building a stroker 2.3L or 2.4L going with a billet crank is the way to go. I guess I'll be going with a K1 crank for my 2.3L.
Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Freddie@Spec-Ops
After discussing broken cranks with Aaron a few weeks back, it seems as the one that I saw was broken in the same area/type of fracture...
I'll put pix up of the 2 I have tomorrow.


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