You should really do an oil analysis with pushing oil changes past 15k. Even amsoil recommends doing an analysis at 12,500 the first time you do an extended run on the signature series. And then do another analysis every 2,500 or so to see how far you can actually safely push it. So, while they claim 25k mile oil changes, they still want the oil analyzed after a certain point to make sure it's doing what tis supposed to in your engine, as they are all different.

 

So then, i guess i am just crazy to change it every 3k running full syn and a kn oil filter. Dont get me wrong i drive my car like i stole it but hell 7500 and 15k is ridiculous for an oil change.

 

Just do what makes you happy.

So long as you are keeping the filters changed and the oil lubricated with the correct weight oil, you're golden.

 

I think that with new cars and using full synthetic, it is a waste (I did not say crazy) to waste resources. However, if you feel good about it and feel more secure about your investment then it is your choice.

I will think about doing an oil analysis but from what I read Blackstone is not doing the oil analysis that is adequate for these new types of oil. I need to do more reading about this as this can be interpreted as these full synth. blends and oil filters do not want to admit they sell snake oil.. or actually they are right about it.

As a scientist, I need to educate myself more about it so I will keep reading. It is hard to find really good science about oil and filter out there so that is why I keep my empirical experiment going. The car runs great, does not burn oil I can notice on my manual gauge and the spark plugs look great (same for the exhaust).

I suppose I will go with that new filter and will report in a year.
Cheers to all.

Hydro.

 

start on bitog

 

Yes, I love Bob is the oil guy website.

 

Not burning oil is definitely a good sign. Cylinder wear, thus oil consumption, usually presents before excess bearing wear does.

 

I `m fitting a JS Asakashi filter its about the same size a the oem MD356000 the bypass relief pressure is 1.2 bar. [17 psi ] is this too high for a 4B11T engine

 

Gonna try out this NAPA Platinum filter with some VR1. Apparently it's gonna be leaps and bounds better than the OEM filters I've been using for the past 99k.

Usually run ZROD but for some reason NAPA only had two quarts in stock and wasn't getting more for several weeks.

 

This article gives me a clear idea that how oil filter works! Just want to ask a question here. What about wix oil filter? I read reviews on various website like that. Those sites are popping up at top on search result and lots of site suggesting to use wix. Thus, Any personal opinion about this oil filter will be appreciated. I am thinking to buy this filter. Is it good decision to buy wix?
Update: Thanks everyone. I have placed order of wix 51348 oil filter from amazon. It has lots of positive reviews on amazon.

 

WIX/NAPA filters are the shiznet

 

I recently moved from the Fram Ultra Syn Filter to the Puralator BOSS Syn Filter. Plan to send in a sample for UOA next time I change oil out to see how it compares to previous samples with the Fram Ultra Syn filter, I don't expect I'll see any differences.

 

That's WHAT I love about this forum, somebody is always willing to go a step further to inform the community on what works, and what doesn't work.
Much appreciation

 

+1

This is the ONLY platform I've seen where people are willing to share vital info FOR FREE. EcuFlash is a prefect example. To this day, people are surprised when I tell them our tuning software is free, data logging is $20, and it's all done via the OEM ECU.
Oh, and I pass smog.
While the Evo community can be one of the harshest, it's also one of the most helpful.

 

Thanks for this!

I ended up going with WIX filters based on the results and saved about half vs going with OEM. I'll also get the stuff faster because I'm ordering from RockAuto and don't have to order from one of the performance shops who take so long to ship and charge more.