One thing that you will learn as time goes on is that for any given question you ask on a forum/website you will get eight different answers that all contradict eachother.

It is up to you and your skills to judge whose persona and ideas have the most merit. There is a reason why certain people gain notoriety on forums and people will say "wait for XXXXX to chime in"...it is because those people have a reputation of giving out reliable knowledge.

A lot of knowledge comes from different schools of thought -- that yahoo answer may be true for a pushrod 80s mustang engine where you have 8 cylinders all doing work to create horsepower; however when you have 4 cylinders outputting 2-2.5 times stock output I would make sure everything that can be done that might have a remote impact on the reliability of the engine is done.

That being said, JAM (up the street from my house) definitely crates and ships motors.

Regards,
-Duo

 

Well, if one guy on the internet says it's true, it must be true. Call ANY performance engine builder and i'd be willing to bet they check every single cylinder for roundness and bore or at least hone every motor they build. From a 2 stroke snowmobile to a V10 Viper.

 

Awd_evo posted a thread to read on and seems like JAM messed up in that which is very unlike of them.

My question remained unanswered
" what is the exact criteria for getting the cylinder honed ? Is there any thumb rule for cylinder honing ? every time we change pistons we need cylinder honing whether it would be after 2000 kms or 20 000kms ? Should a slightly used block must also be honed ?"

 

Another good link, kindly do have a read.

http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/dnthone.htm

 

I cant read that because my computer at work is blocking it. but i'll just say this. If you don't want to hone it, then don't hone it. if the rings don't seat, or something happens, then the worst case you only have to pull the motor back out and do it over again. make sure you mic the crank and plasti-gauge the bearings. All i'm trying to do is help you do it correctly so you don't have to do it again.

 

I really appreciate it , that is the reason of this forum , to help and share your experiences. Yes i have noted down all the above written things. I can assure you that the build wont proceed untill all the clearances are met and things are done with proper tools. I am using FORCE torque wrenches, combination spanners and socket spanners.
Thanks for the advice. If you get time kindly do have a read to this article.

 

If you look at your picture there's the shiny spot on the loaded side of the cylinder. There may be one on the other side also. As the crankshaft rotates clockwise it pushes the piston against the exhaust side of the cylinder and slightly wears away the cylinder wall. The "hone cross hatching" is basically gone it makes it hard for oil to stick to the cylinder wall. basically a freshly honed cylinder holds the oil on the cylinder wall helping the lubrication of the pistons and rings.


[QUOTE=mines5;10659316]

 

I will once i get home tonight good luck with your build!

 

Thanks again bro.

 

Update ! The engine has been assembled . Uploading the pics, sorry for the crappy camera result.

 

The pistons with weight written

 

 

Torque

 

Cam timing mark

 

Crank timing marks