Pictures and info on Mishimoto MMRAD-EVO-01 radiator
#16
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Looks good! Yea, Mishimoto is not one of the most favorite radiator options for the Evo.. Especially on Evom. I've had great luck with my Mishimoto radiator (ie half rad). Id recommend one to anybody. You cannot beat their low price and included warranty.. The only complaint I have, is the radiator caps are crap. Several others on the forum have had the same issue.. I've replaced mine with a power enterprise cap and never looked back.
Keep us posted !
Keep us posted !
#19
Evolving Member
iTrader: (9)
I have been using the mishimoto evo 4/5/6 radiater for the past 5 years 80,000+miles with o ut a problem. I recomend the evo 4/5/6 radiator over the evo 7/8/9 radiator because its 100% the same but the upper radiator hose is moved to the driver side so that its away from the heat of the turbo manifold.
Here is mine
Here is mine
#20
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Also I have the Power Enterprise 1.3 bar cap in the link below;
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...?productid=381
#21
Evolved Member
iTrader: (2)
Also I had the SPAL slim fan w/ shroud on the car previously.. It performed well but after making a trip down to RRE in SoCal, they told me the stock fan and shroud pulls almost twice the amount of air/CFM when compared to my SPAL fan. I switched back to the OEM fan and noticed my temps were considerably lower at the track (ie w/ SPAL max temp 221f & OEM fan/ shroud was 204f). Remember I have the half rad though, you may not run into those issues.
Last edited by BEKevo; Jan 29, 2013 at 05:57 PM.
#23
Evolved Member
iTrader: (33)
I have one in my car. It has about 60k miles on it so far, and over 10 trackdays(30 min sessions flatout at ~380whp, a couple in +100deg tracktemps). The cap is a weakpoint, get rid of it and replace it with a stock one, otherwise it's a good buy. I'd get the one for the evo6 that way you can move the upper hose over and make it straight as opposed to being over the exhaust manifold.
#27
The cap failed instantly.. You can fix it by bending the tabs up, to apply more pressure. But that's ghetto IMO.
Also I have the Power Enterprise 1.3 bar cap in the link below;
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...?productid=381
Also I had the SPAL slim fan w/ shroud on the car previously.. It performed well but after making a trip down to RRE in SoCal, they told me the stock fan and shroud pulls almost twice the amount of air/CFM when compared to my SPAL fan. I switched back to the OEM fan and noticed my temps were considerably lower at the track (ie w/ SPAL max temp 221f & OEM fan/ shroud was 204f). Remember I have the half rad though, you may not run into those issues.
Also I have the Power Enterprise 1.3 bar cap in the link below;
http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...?productid=381
Also I had the SPAL slim fan w/ shroud on the car previously.. It performed well but after making a trip down to RRE in SoCal, they told me the stock fan and shroud pulls almost twice the amount of air/CFM when compared to my SPAL fan. I switched back to the OEM fan and noticed my temps were considerably lower at the track (ie w/ SPAL max temp 221f & OEM fan/ shroud was 204f). Remember I have the half rad though, you may not run into those issues.
I originally took the OEM fan/shroud off and installed the SPAL fan when I was weight-reduction-obsessed and building an autocross-focused Evo. I may go back to the OEM fan for track duty. Doesn't matter if your car is three pounds lighter if it ends up DNF-ing the event as an indirect result of that weight reduction...
#29
I'm only planning to do NASA Time Trials events (maximum of about 25 minutes of beating on the car per session) rather than actual road racing. Also, my engine is "only" making about 500 whp (corrected), so it's not an extreme example of heat production from a 4G63 motor.
I'm not expecting this radiator to last forever; I've learned the hard way that there are plenty of expensive Evo components (say, transmissions, clutches, transfer cases, and even engines) that don't last nearly as long as you'd hope after spending lots of money on them. In the grand scheme of things, the cost of a Mishimoto radiator is chump change.
In fact, if this radiator were to crack or fail after a couple seasons of hard use, I'd still be satisfied with it, especially if Mishimoto honors their lifetime warranty and gives me a new one for the cost of shipping the old one in (maybe $35?).
But yes, If I experience a failure, I'll report it, and document how Mishimoto handles it as well.
I'm not expecting this radiator to last forever; I've learned the hard way that there are plenty of expensive Evo components (say, transmissions, clutches, transfer cases, and even engines) that don't last nearly as long as you'd hope after spending lots of money on them. In the grand scheme of things, the cost of a Mishimoto radiator is chump change.
In fact, if this radiator were to crack or fail after a couple seasons of hard use, I'd still be satisfied with it, especially if Mishimoto honors their lifetime warranty and gives me a new one for the cost of shipping the old one in (maybe $35?).
But yes, If I experience a failure, I'll report it, and document how Mishimoto handles it as well.
Anyway, I've now done four full track days with my car (two tracks: High Plains Raceway, Deer Trail, CO; and Pueblo Motorsports Park, Pueblo, CO) and my Mishimoto radiator (MMRAD-EVO-01) has been issue-free. I've put several thousand miles on the car—it's still a "street car"; I drive it to and from race events—and it has close to 500 miles of beating on it mercilessly on the road course too.
Normal temps according to my Speedhut water temp gauge (sender in the BOTTOM of the OEM thermostat housing; thread on that here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...mp-sensor.html) are 175-184 F, fully warmed up, in town, on the highway, etc.
Immediately after a 60 to 70 second autocross run, in "normal" summer heat (i.e., ambient temps of 85-95 degrees), temps are up to 195-207. Idling in grid for five minutes or so after the run, with the hood open, coolant temps will eventually come down a hair, but not much... probably because my SPAL slim fan can't move enough CFM to help the radiator out. 207F is hardly hot anyway.
Out on track (road course), during a 15 to 25 minute session, temps are MUCH HIGHER... I've read here on evom from other track guys that their temps "never go over 100C/212F" no matter how long they beat on their Evo on track, but I've seen a max temp of 218 degrees. This was on a day when the air temps were right at 100 degrees, and my Evo was running about 25 psi that day—about 470 whp at that boost/air temps. I was running water only in the cooling system. It's important to remember that as engine output goes up substantially, so does the waste heat it creates. I am also still running the OEM oil cooler—pretty sure that if I had a larger, aftermarket oil cooler that would bring my oil temps down, that would help reduce coolant temps as well.
However, as soon as I back off and do a cooldown lap at 60% or so, the coolant temps drop to 205-210, or basically "normal" again.
I have one in my car. It has about 60k miles on it so far, and over 10 trackdays(30 min sessions flatout at ~380whp, a couple in +100deg tracktemps). The cap is a weakpoint, get rid of it and replace it with a stock one, otherwise it's a good buy. I'd get the one for the evo6 that way you can move the upper hose over and make it straight as opposed to being over the exhaust manifold.
I've had great luck with my Mishimoto radiator (ie half rad). Id recommend one to anybody. You cannot beat their low price and included warranty.. The only complaint I have, is the radiator caps are crap. Several others on the forum have had the same issue.. I've replaced mine with a power enterprise cap and never looked back.
The cap failed instantly.. You can fix it by bending the tabs up, to apply more pressure. But that's ghetto IMO.
The cap failed instantly.. You can fix it by bending the tabs up, to apply more pressure. But that's ghetto IMO.
Some vanity pics, to spice up this post
Yup, I went four-off the session before this pic:
Vanity shots of the car, ready to run:
The following on-track images all shot by/courtesy of Rupert Berrington:
Last edited by EGbeater; Jul 30, 2013 at 07:18 AM.