babaz7

hi i want to build a 2.1L motor, but want to know basic things first,..

i have a 2003 evo 8, so how do i make it a 2.1l?

do i need a 4g64 block and the stock 4g63 crank, or can i use my same 4g63 block to make a 2.1l?

how does it go?

and if i need a 4g64 block,can i use the standard block which comes in mitsubishi galant?

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

You can get the block from the Mitsu Galant, 99-03

sktng22

iTrader: (3)

2.4 block with your stock crank from the 2.0 and 156mm rods

babaz7

so i just get the 4g64 block,and put my 4g63 crank and new rods and pistons,and i get a 2.1L?

i dont have to do anything to the 4g64 block or do i?

babaz7

and also will the stock 4g63 crank handle 9000+ rpm's or do i need a aftermarket one?

babaz7

ok so i need 156 mm rods, check.

how will the grp aluminum rods work?

and manley or cp pistons?

chu

iTrader: (72)

What are you building the motor for? What is your budget for the build? Have you done any extensive research (seems not to me by these questions)?

I think you need to answer the first two questions, and then proceed with the third questions. There are some really good long threads with lots of info on whats needed for the varying stroker builds. The goals you set and your budget will determine what you need to buy. For example, a 2.1L to make 450-500 and only street driven doesn't need alum rods. SET GOALS!

Anyhow...

Manley and CP are both great pistons, and it really comes down to preference. Many many people like Manley becasue they've done 63 and 64 motors for so long, and stock the varying pistons on the shelf. CP has a great rep, and builders such as GSC uses CP in their builds. Choosing a good builder and machinist is probably more important than which brand you go with.

babaz7

okay,your right! i should have explained it more in detail,i'll answer your first 3 questions then proceed further in details.

im building the engine for street racing,i want a high revving street motor,because i have a gt3586 turbo kit on right now,but i cant push it to its limit because my internals are stock.

thats why i want a 2.1L..

your second question about budget, right now i just want the internals, and a 4g64 block,later on ill get a new head and an intake manifold..ill take it slowly,im not in a rush...i already have the turbo kit,ets 3.5 intercooler,down pipe,air intake,exaust manifold,gsc s2 cams,valve and retainers,arp head studs etc.

my evo 8 right now is pushing 450 whp, but i cant increase timing or boost cause im scared of the stock internals...

and i havent done enough research,thats why i made this thread and am asking so many question so you guys can help me out!

at first i just wanted to buy a shortblock from either buschur or maperformance,but the cost,shipping,customs to pakistan would have been in excess of 8000$ which im not ready to shell out.

my goal is to have a 600-650 whp evo with mehtnol injection,we only have 93 octane here so i will need meth injection to get to my goal.

babaz7

okay so if anyone would be kind enough to answer me these questions:

i understand that i'll need a 99-2003 galant block,ok ill get it but do i need to modify it?

or will the crank and pistons just fit in and i can go out for engine break in?

will aluminum rods work on the streets,or am i asking for to much and should just stick to steel rods?

will my 4g63 head bolt directly to the 4g64 block?

thanks in advance guys

blackenedwings

For your power goals and intended use there is no reason to go to a 2.1L motor if you have a clean 4g63 block. A built 2.0L will easily get you to the power numbers you want. If your block is toast then its probably worth considering the 2.1L. Factory 4g63 crank will easily handle the power/rpms you want.

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

I would have an engine specialist / builder do the job for you.. It's not as easy as slapping the crank in there along with the pistons & rods.. And go beat on it. Personally I'd keep the 2.0 setup and beef that up. Its known for its high revving abilities and definitely can take the abuse. That's only of course if the block and crank are in good condition. You may even do a "drop-in" rebuild, if the cylinder walls are in good shape (ie no knicks, ovals etc...) and your head looks good enough. This could potentially save you it big $$$$.

Listen to chu. Setting goals is very important. First things first, I'd find a reputable engine builder around you. Especially if you want a high output/ high boost/ big torque motor. There's certain aspects of an engine build where you can save money and where you can't... That's where experience comes in.

I'd talk to an experienced 4G63 engine specialist, like Aaron @ English Racing or Buschur. Get their opinions before buying parts. They've been doing this forever....

BEKevo

iTrader: (2)

What part of the country are you from ? We can point you in the right direction, possibly to a reputable engine building shop/ machine shop around you..

Edit: Saw you were from Pakistan.... Ill hear you on the shipping cost I know there's some speed shops out there. Hopefully someone can chime in.

itsmrrizz2you

iTrader: (14)

Why not just go with a 10:1 2.0? I would think that's the best for drag?

itsmrrizz2you

iTrader: (14)

Also I'd do what they said above. Call buschur or English racing and they will def point you in the rite direction on motor size compression and parts

chu

iTrader: (72)

There are really no custom parts required for a 4G64 storker swap anymore, but there will be a few extra nick-naks you must buy to make everything work...like waterpump spacer, timing belt, head gasket, etc. Also, you need cam gears to reset the timing due to the taller deck.

Since you block is still good, I would honestly say beef up the internals and it should handle 650hp on its own. Two of my friends rebuild their motors in favor of the GSC Powerdivision's long rod 2.0, which will rev high and are built very stout. 2.1 and 2.2 high reving motors are also a good choice, but come with a bit of headache as far as gettign those nick-naks I mentioned, as well as making sure timing is done correctly.

What I would do would be:

Manley HD pistons and Turbotuff rods (PROVEN)
Have stock crank checks and balanced or purchased a K1.
New rod and main bearings (I prefer OEM)
Balance shaft delete kit form GSC or AMS
OEM Engine Rebuild gasket kit (comes with everything you need, sell what you don't)
FIND REALLY GOOD MACHINE SHOP.

My 2.3L with dinky HKS 7460R turbo made 408hp/391tq @ 25 psi ith 93 octane on a Mustang dyno. No reason you can't hit 650 with larger turbo, meth, and properly built motor.

Search "end all stroker" and see if that thread comes up. Good info in there.