Ok I am racking my mind I cant figure out why my brand new fp green is making low boost. Heres the original story. My stock evo 8 turbo had boost problems after a coupler came off the TB at 23 PSI at high rpms. I wanted to make some power so I went to the Green with an 18psi WGA a couple months ago and just started to drive it. When I replaced the turbo I also added:

Milspec TB seals, Grimmspeed EBCS, Bushcur FMIC, FIC 1000cc injectors, Omni 4 bar, ets intake mani, custom piping, gsc stg1 cams. It already had new edge o2 housing, and full exhaust.

Its getting etuned by Tscomp.we have scaled the injectors, that was fine.
I drove it really for the first time and it only builds 10psi. I re boost tested it and couldnt find a problem. I disconnected EBCS and ran a battery to it, I can hear it opening. I made sure the WGA arm was properly preloaded, good there.
Made sure all lines on the ebcs are good, they were.
WGDC were set by Tom at 65, he is confident in the tune.

It is throwing CELS today though, it has thrown 2 CELS the other day, and today it threw 3 CELS. The codes today were P0113 INTAKE AIR TEMP, P0102 MASS VOLUME CIRCUT LOW, & P0107 MANIFOLD ABSOLUTE LOW INPUT.
The other day it threw the intake air temp, and the manifold low input ( Tom thinks it was the OMNI 4 bar). I removed them in EVOscan last week and removed it again today.

So long story short tons of new part, idles great, cant find any boost leaks (I am gonna do one more tomorrow but I am pretty sure its all good, and maybe get another turn out of the WGA arm). I cant see or think of anything causing this.

Any ideas guys?? I am seriously stumped... i sent all my findings to Tom, I know he's busy and I figure better to have everyones input. Thanks in advance to everyone for help.

 

I talked to some people and being that this boost problem has existed since a coupler came off the tb at max boost at high rpms and has never boosted correctly since, can the problem be in the intake manifold area, any sensors that could cause this or any vac lines around intake mani that could contribute ?

 

Is it hesitating when you hit 10lbs? I know it's stupid, but check your plugs and coils lately?

 

Plugs are new no hesitation at all. Everything has less then 100 miles on it

 

So, bypass the solenoid hose assembly leaving it and the ECU out of the equation. Run a single 4mm hose directly from the nipple on the actuator to the nipple on the j-pipe. Dont forget to plug the open hose ends, now open from the BCS setup. Now, increase WG spring tension, and thus closing seat pressure on the flapper, by rotating the turnbuckle on the threaded end of the actuartor rod. At first try four complete 360* inward, clockwise rotations.

PM me any questions.

 

First off, if the turbo is only building 10#, and given a sound turbo, WGA, and functionally sealing flapper, no pre-turbo exhaust leaks, no boost leaks per se, properly functioning BCS and non-leaking vacuum boost hose assembly, good sealing DV, and etc...then the one thing that is certain is that your flapper valve is fully open at 10#. Given all of the above conditions, the question which must be answered becomes, why is your turbo's flapper full open at only 10#.

 

The only reason that I suggested the coils/wires is that I had the problem of not boosting past 10psi. Took it up to Atlantic and found out that my coil wires were arching causing cut. The wires were just broken. Just an easy fix, hoping it was the same for you and nothing too complicated

 

Would the wastegate duty cycles have anything to do with it?

 

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...Info_wastegate

There's some helpful videos on how to properly preload the WGA. If you bought the turbo brand new from us then it should already be properly adjusted. Unless it got damaged in shipping or something.

-Michael

 

^^ Awesome to see a vendor engaging on an issue with a customer. OP keep us posted on how resolve the issue please

 

So, Mike you have determined that the OP's turbo is preloaded properly. Therefore, insufficient spring pressure can be ruled out as a source of the low boost in this particular case? So in your opinion, what is causing the the OP's low boost pressure.

Since you adjusted spring pressure properly on the OP's turbo at FP. Do you happen to recall what PSI you set wastegate spring pressure at on the OP's turbo?

 

If I had his name or invoice or even the serial at the turbo charger I could look it up and find out what it's set at. During the build phase the WGA is attached on the test bench which supplies the WGA with a regulated air source and it's operation tested (crack psi, open psi, actuation motion, flapper door seating) so it's without a doubt when it leaves here properly preloaded.

However there is variables that will mess with the preload after it's left here.
- Shipping damage
- Turbine housing being removed for porting by vendor or someone else
- End user adjustment
- Etc...

The best way to test a WGA is the way we do it hook a regulate air source directly to the WGA and slowly raise the pressure till you see it fully open. If you have an 18PSI you should see it begin to crack around 16PSI and fully open at 18PSI. Same for 25PSI but it will crack around 22-23PSI. If it fully opens WAY sooner then the WGA may be faulty and needs replacing.

If the WGA checks out on that test then check the preload.

If both of those are correct disconnect your EBC and connect the WGA directly to a boost source and see if it reaches the WGA spring pressure. If it does, then investigate your boost controller and related systems/hardware.

If it doesn't then a boost leak test is in order.

If no boost leak tests are found pull the O2 housing and inlet off the turbo charger and check for wheel to housing contact and excessive shaft play.

-Michael

 

 

Thanks for all the help so far been working and finals I haven't got to look at it, will be looking at Friday. Hopefully we will find out the problem.

 

I had the same issue on the dyno yesterday, i didnt route the vacuum lines going into ebcs right. Check them on grimmspeeds site