nefariousdeeds

Hello everyone,
Let me first say, I have searched and read every single thread that has the word lockout, clutch problem, synchros, 1st and 2nd, ACT-MB7XTG6, clutch fork... and basically everything related to the problem I am listing. Without taking my tranny out (again) I was hoping someone might relate so I could start somewhere.. easier

So here goes:
2006 Evo IX MR
ACT-MB7XTG6 -- Xtreme Sprung 6 Pad Disc Clutch Kit (with new TOB)
Fidanza Flywheel -- Friction plate was replaced with a new one.
GL-4 SAE 75W 90 Gear Oil (was just replaced)
Diaqueen SAE 90 (was just replaced)

Last December I installed an ACT-MB7XTG6 - Everything has been working fine up until about 2 weeks ago. I started hearing a clattering noise (some list this as a coffee grinder noise on here). It sounds like a heat shield rattle except from inside the transmission area somewhere. It only happens on deceleration or so I can tell. When I push in the clutch pedal, it goes away. -- All of this is happening while driving. About half way to work this morning, the car was almost impossible to get into 1st and 2nd gear. All the rest of the gears shifted smooth.

Now the car is at my work, stopped:

With the car off, while not touching the clutch pedal -- I can shift the car into 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th and reverse just free moving the shifter. BUT 2nd and 1st are very hard.... After I put it into 1st or 2nd, the other gears seem to not want to go in either. I can shake the shifter and pump the clutch pedal and after a few tries all of the other gears work again. Its only after I try 1st and 2nd the others act like they won't work. Note that after I move the shifter and clutch pedal 1st and 2nd are still very stiff.

Some other things I noticed is that while the car is in 1st if you hit the gas the shifter knob shakes and when you put your hand on it it feels... I dunno wobbly like you can feel something spinning thats out of balance in there somewhere. My car is very loud, so if there is any kind of small whine, I cant hear it.
The slave cyl on the clutch fork appears to be working fine, the pedal was adjusted not too long ago, using the jacks transmission method on youtube. Basically just making sure that you get the most pedal travel and that the fluid transfer is working good.

I have zero drips, leaks, etc.

I have read so far :

Synchros -- is there a way to test this? (without removing the transmission)

Broken or bent clutch fork -- It does not appear to be either, but maybe I need to inspect it better.

Clutch plate -- Broken spring, Welded to flywheel etc. I cant see any broken parts..

Clutch Pedal adjustment -- I plan on triple checking this later today but It was fine a 2 weeks ago with no crazy driving etc.

Shifter linkage bushings - Ive inspected the one under the shifter and the linkage under the hood and they both appear to be ok... some minor cracks but def not broken or missing.

If anyone has any ideas or past expierences that sound familiar please let me know. Im fairly mechanical to the point where ive done the clutch twice myself, right this moment im just frazzled, so any advise would be appreciated.

-- Bryan

evolve_VIII

iTrader: (11)

Try disconnecting the shifter linkage from the transmission and move the forks manually. This will at least verify if its the shifter/linkage. If the levers are difficult to move, there is internal damage. Most likely a bent fork or damaged syncros. You wont know until the trans comes apart. Based on just the symptom, its a bent 1-2 shift fork. Its rare that a 1st gear syncro is damaged unless you shift into first when coasting down to a stop.

I doubt its clutch or adjustment related as all other gears work.

What kind of power are you making? May be worth doing a 5 speed swap.

Xplosiv

Might look at your master cylinder too. Mine died with just 44k miles on it.

blowngasket

iTrader: (4)

Shift fork, worn or broken or the Detent Bolt is jammed up nasty.
Youll see 3 bolts [large ones] Close to the trans mount, those hold the shift forks in with a Ball on a high tension spring, those should be torqued to spec, you could have your first/second gear one jammed. Id check that Correct me if im wrong but i beleive the 1/2nd one is the on to the front of the car alone in a row. Id loosen it up a bit and inspec it, back it off a turn or a half a turn [MAKE SURE IT RETAINS TENSION ON THE FORK RAIL]and see how it shifts [Manually not driving of course] If it shifted fine thats your issue IF NOT, drain fluid and inspect thru the bottom plate the Shift fork, with a flash light youll prolly be able to see it, might have to remove the Reverse idle gear thou.

Could also be input, or rear Shaft bearing. Once you get end play in the input shaft youll notice 1st Is HARD to get into gear, sometimes it gets better when warm. This usualy means the input shaft has to much endplay, or the bearing is on its way out. Also youll hear a noise, like you described when the shaft is moving to me it sounds like a box of rocks, or a Planner with carbide blades on it slowing down.

nefariousdeeds

Just an update, with pics.

Today, with my brothers help I took the transmission out, split the case and found this:

Toasted bearing

Pics attached

4RETECH

iTrader: (86)

Wow, glad you found it.

SuperchargedGTZ

iTrader: (4)

which bearing is that?

I too was having a similar noise..first sounded like flywheel chatter, but it got REALLY loud and at low RPM's you could always hear it. Then the other night, all of sudden when I downshifted, an awful wine came from the tranny and all of sudden I couldnt get it into gear unless I was stopped. When I am stopped, and the cluth is pressed in, I can get it into all gears just fine. But the second I move, forget it.

I am getting it towed to my tuner hopefully today, so I am just trying to prepare myself for the worst

MechTech

Ouch, bummer dude. Glad you found the problem but thats a high price. Hows the rest of the trans look, and damage? What kind of fluid were you using? Thats not a very common failure. The hard 1st and 2nd makes sense now though, counter shaft moving when you put it in gear.

nefariousdeeds

Sorry for the delayed reply everyone. To answer the questions.

Its the output shaft bearing, the bearing itself has "NTN SC06C44" Stamped on the side of it. According to the dealership, there are two versions of the IX 6 speed transmission internals. There was a change mid production year or so they say. They can look up exactly what one you need depending on your VIN. One version the bearing is 45.00 dollars or so and can be changed, the other version (the one I have) is an entire unit. Output Shaft Assembly (pn# 2522A140) which has the bearing pressed onto it. Just to be specific, this is the bearing on the drivers side, end of the shaft with the race on the outer edge of it that holds the clip ring.

nefariousdeeds

The rest of the transmission appears to be completely untouched, there is a light glitter that needs to be cleaned, but as far as the other gears and bearings they appear (just by look and feel) to be completely fine.

Fluid that was in it, was BG1 BG Synchro Shift (when replaced I used the fluid service kit from evomoto.)

nefariousdeeds

Here are a couple more shots of the exact failure part. Maybe this will save someone time in the future.

MrJuls

On my 6-Speed it's my 4th gear that's getting notchy at high rpm.I have ordered a new clutch and want to get a new syncro and have the shop install everything at once.

I've bought a Comp stage 4 6-Puck sprung,hope i haven't made the wrong choice.Luckily it's not my DD,so i can live with a "grabby" clutch.