How to break in a brand new 4g63 evo 8
May 20, 2013 | 10:45 PM
#2
Find a mountain and lots and lots of the #1 in the list below
http://amsperformance.com/attachment...structions.pdf
http://amsperformance.com/attachment...structions.pdf
May 20, 2013 | 11:45 PM
#5
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 173
Likes: 0
From: Salem, Oregon
In those instructions, it says short bursts of acceleration.
You don't want to go more than 50% throttle for at least the first 150 miles.
Just a heads up.
It also wouldn't hurt to give your shop a call. See how they feel about it.
You don't want to go more than 50% throttle for at least the first 150 miles.
Just a heads up.
It also wouldn't hurt to give your shop a call. See how they feel about it.
May 21, 2013 | 05:17 AM
#6
I did a combination of the AMS and the GSC break-in methods. When I started the motor the very first time, I followed GSC's guidelines, and ran through the rev cycle for 20mins; 10 mins between 1-2 thousadn RPM, cool engine for 1-2 hours, then 10mins between 2-3k RPM. Drain oil and replace filter. Then, instead of the 500 miles as AMS recommended, I went for 1k miles. People say to loading the engine is the most important part, so I would drive in higher gear at lower speeds...kinda like mimic hills I guess. My area doesn't have many hills. When on the highway, I would do burst from 55 to 80, and release the pedal and let the gear whine back down to 55. I did that as much as I could when traffic allowed. During that 1000 miles, I change just the filter again.
After 1k miles, I changed the oil and filter again, and went for a tune. Use strictly conventional oil on your break-in, and constantly keep an eye on your oil level. My motor had a lot of blow-by during the initial break-in, and I constantly checked the catch can and oil level. It eventually got less and less, so I can tell the rings were seating. Right before getting tuned, I did another oil change on conventional oil (being **** here), and I'm just approaching the second 1000 miles now. I've autox twice, and did one track day so far, and have had no issues with the motor. Blow-by is almost nothing. I will switch to synthetic soon. Good luck with yours.
After 1k miles, I changed the oil and filter again, and went for a tune. Use strictly conventional oil on your break-in, and constantly keep an eye on your oil level. My motor had a lot of blow-by during the initial break-in, and I constantly checked the catch can and oil level. It eventually got less and less, so I can tell the rings were seating. Right before getting tuned, I did another oil change on conventional oil (being **** here), and I'm just approaching the second 1000 miles now. I've autox twice, and did one track day so far, and have had no issues with the motor. Blow-by is almost nothing. I will switch to synthetic soon. Good luck with yours.
Last edited by chu; May 21, 2013 at 05:21 AM.
May 21, 2013 | 07:50 AM
#7
The buschur method... see below
http://highboostforum.com/forum/show...g-in-an-engine
Here is some information I want to get out there.
The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.
This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.
For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.
DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.
ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.
Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.
Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.
As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.
It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete bull****. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.
David Buschur
The 4g63 is not a small block Chevy. You do NOT crank it with the fuel disconnected or the ignition unplugged to prime the oiling system. If you truly wanted to try and prime the oiling system before starting a new engine you would need to leave the timing belt off and crank the oil pump seperately. Same thing if you DID have a small block Chevy, you'd spin the oil pump through the distributor hole.
This next stuff applies to OUR ENGINES. I don't care about some other shop or some other machine shop that did YOUR work. Don't ask as I could care less.
For our engines. IF you put your head on, timed it etc. and installed the engine in your car AND you have everything exactly right, the engine should start and run almost immediately after trying to start it. When it does hold the engine at around 1500-2000 rpm and let it stay there. Check it for leaks while it is doing this, check it for anything out of the ordinary. If you are using a standalone check the AFR's, look at the knock count etc. Dial in your AFR's a little so it is where it needs to be to run at this RPM. Hopefully you have a map that is right in the first place and you can just let it run. While the car is warming up the lifters will quiet down as the oil pressure builds and the air gets out of the lifters. Check the coolant, watch the coolant temps.
DO NOT just crank the engine to attempt to build oil pressure, it WILL BUILD INSTANTLY IF THE CAR STARTS.
ALL of our engines are built/assembled with a special lube. It is very sticky. I basically fill the crank shaft with it, so there is quite a bit of lube there and everything is very well coated. The engine could probably actually run with NO oil in it for a few minutes with no damage, we don't want that obviously.
Point is to TRIPLE check every single thing on the car first and then it should start instantly and run.
Once you are sure there are no leaks of any type and everything is tight and triple checked again you can either start some low throttle tuning or go for a drive.
As long as everything is 100% I could care less about a break in. Engines built here/assembled here and installed here are broken in on the dyno about 90% of the time. I have maps perfected for any combination we have. So the car is checked, loaded on the dyno. The idle, part throttle tuning is gone over and a few miles are put on the car at light loads to make sure it runs great and the AFR's are good. I do all the fuel mileage calibrations right on the dyno too. When this is done, the car is looked over again and then the tuning at low boost levels (20 psi or whatever) is done. I generally do the pump gas tunes first so the boost levels are lowest. As soon as they are done then the car is turned up and tuned on race gas if that is part of the build.
It is nothing to have a car with less than 10 miles on it at 40 psi of boost and 10,000 rpm. If it is going to fail then it is going to fail at that point and running it for 2,000 miles (whatever) easy is not going to change that. Running an engine for 2,000 miles to break it in is complete bull****. It's most companies ways of getting you to take 6 months to be ready to run the car hard and by then they hope the warranty is over.
David Buschur
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May 21, 2013 | 09:40 AM
#9
Here is some other info if you're looking for a good read, I've broken 3 motors in on this method.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Once the lips on the piston rings wear and bite into the cylinder walls, they are set, the motor is broken in.
May 21, 2013 | 11:30 AM
#10
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
From: Ca
What's crazy when I broke in my motor on my other car it seem to be faster then any other car of the same make , stock to stock . Breaking in is very important and your car will last . Don't beat it on or it will beat your wallet .
May 21, 2013 | 12:22 PM
#11
i have broken in 2 Evo motors, 1 from MAP and 1 built in my basement with TScompTuned. Both motors i drove them normal for 750-1000 miles. Most of our cars a DD's and not race cars so putting 1k miles is easy to do. PISTONS RINGS NEED TO BREAK IN. I dont care what anyone says. I have had no problems with my motors doing it this way. I have 8k on my built motor right now. 34PSI making 630whp built in my basement.
May 21, 2013 | 03:19 PM
#13
With what piston rings are made of now they are almost broken in by the time you go down the road a mile but everyone has there own ways of breaking in an engine you just have to try one and see if it works. If its assembled correctly then you shouldnt have a problem in any way you choose to break it in.
May 21, 2013 | 06:35 PM
#14
Here is the non scientific answer:
Synthetic oils are very good at keeping things slippery, when you break in a motor you want the parts to wear into place to create the seal (rings on cylinder walls), synthetic oil is a counter balance to this methodology.
Synthetic oils are very good at keeping things slippery, when you break in a motor you want the parts to wear into place to create the seal (rings on cylinder walls), synthetic oil is a counter balance to this methodology.