Hey everybody! Just wanted to inform your about another transfer case death. I had recently upgraded to a Fidanza flywheen and a CC segmented ceramic clutch. I initially had rattling noise on decel which I attributed to the new TOB (aftermarket) and thought nothing about it, and just continued to monitor the noise. Well yesterday, there was an event... After a long haul up H3 (hawaii, up hill for about 7 miles to a tunnel) I let off the throttle at the peak of the mountain heading into the tunnel, as usual, I expected the rattle, except it was VERY pronounced and the car began to shake violently. I pull over and inspect everything. My first idea was "Oh great, the TOB failed after 600 miles", but clutch operation was fine. I could engage, disengage, and shift gears (while stopped). Once I began to move, the clunking/grinding was very loud. I thought about a tow truck, but what ever broke is already broke. So I began to drive very slowly, and the noise was gone.

I still knew something was broken, hard....

Upon accelerating into boost (5 psi), the RPM would rise, indicating clutch slippage, but, the vehicle speed would rise also, meaning the clutch was transmitting power to the output shaft on the transmission. Check, at least that works. I head home.

Today I put it on jacks, and the rear end is totally disconnected from the center diff. Car in gear, one rear and one front raised. The rear spin freely. Oh great... The t-case is toast. I notice some oil-residue on the drive shaft housing. I pop the drain plug for the t-case, empty... I open the access cover and I see the attached pictures. I clearly remember refilling the t-case properly and torquing all the drain and fill bolts. So I believe I damaged the rear seal, and it leaked all the oil out.

The car has about 400hp and has had about 20 drag launches. My goal is 550hp, so I am in contact with shep about the stage 2 hardened ring and pinion set with a t-case rebuild. It's about $1500. You guys think this will be enough for 550 reliably?

 

U should b fine , however i have some friends with their full weight ssl evo 8 running on all stock drive train in the 9s for years with no peoblems . What type of clutch u running ?

 

Competition clutch segmented ceramic, sprung hub. It's not a drag car, more of a auto-x. This is on a Fidanza aluminum flywheel with their whammo-awesome replaceable friction surface. The failure is due to the t-case rear seal leak. Like I said, the the TC was empty, and I clearly remember filling it after the install. There was diaqueen on the drive shaft shroud also, which confirms my leak theory.

 

For got to ask what type of oil are u using

 

I didn't have any of the typical 'death-whine' noises. It went from small rattle during decel to failure in about 300 miles.

 

Redline MT-90 & MTL in the trans, diaqueen in the rear and tc