I have been weighing my options for my first build. My current mods are in my sig. Ive got a $10k budget. Here are my goals:

Conservative safe tune.
Maximum dependability.
E85 and 91 map switching.
Peak boost by 4000 rpm.
Maxium driveability.
Mid 400s whp

Building the motor is an option but not a must. The car has been my daily driver for the past 7 years and will continue to be. I dont make regular trips to the strip or road course. I just want a fast capable street car.

Ive had these parts lying around for a while.

Old school FP green with 2k miles on it
HKS 274 278 cams

I dont think I need to go too crazy but I want to cover all my bases. Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

For a start I was thinking of this as a possible parts list.

GSC s2 cams
GSC beehive springs and ti retainers
GSC valve guides
Stock cam gears
Gates teflon timing belt kit
FP HTA Green Ball bearing
ARP head studs
GSC no tick lifters
A new ACT clutch. Same one I have or maybe try the HDSS setup
ETS full FMIC kit with stock route pipe
1000cc injectors
Possible fuel pump upgrade if necessary. Already have Walbro 255lph
Defi gauges
AEM UEGO
TEIN super street coilovers
Full Whiteline bushing kit
MAP short runner exhaust manifold
JM fab O2 dump
GRIMSPEED 3 port
Speed density???
Tuning work...was thinking Bryan at GST
Stock bottom end???

Im probably forgetting something

 

If you only plan on making the 400whp mark, the stock bottom end will handle it. I would do a compression test and leak down test to make sure that the rings are not worn out.

If the rings are leaking down, then I would rebild it or sell your current block and go with a 2.4 or 2.1LR. The 2.4 is a great street engine making great mid range torque with good HP as well. The 2.1LR will allow you to rev higher safely and would work well with the green.

On my 2.4 and running the black, I spike 45psi at 5300 rpm or so. With the green or red, you will definately spool in the 4K or less range.

If you have the cash to build it up, get a Kurt Brown head, intake manifold, and have him install the springs and guides.

If your going to run e85, you will need larger injectors than 1000cc and a larger fuel pump than a 255.

 

Hmm, with all those mods it looks like your are getting a little crazy. Look at doing the counter balance shafts delete and EGR removal where you block it off at the head. A re-built bottom end when complicate things. These two mods will increase your reliability as it gets rid of the belt for the balance shaft and cleans up your intake dramatically. Also, it eliminates a lot of tubing in the engine bay.

 

Yeah, I've wanted to do the egr delete but I dont want to cause a check engine light. Is the BB HTA Green overkill for mid 400s. I have access to E85 but I wanted a 91 map for convenience. Im in California so I still need to smog.

 

You can completely eliminate the Check Engine Light for the EGR Removal. I reflashed my ECU with the modification to the code. Emissions test shows the EGR test as N/A now

Not sure about the turbo upgrade, I've stayed with the stock EVO 9.

Save money and go with the OEM belts. Wouldn't get the gates unless you are tracking it.

 

The stock evo 9 belt is kevlar. I didnt recommend the egr delete becuse of cali missions but if you can tune around it and pass, by all means delete it but it wont increase power.

The rear balance shaft delete is a good idea but that involves pulling the engine and spinning the bearings and/or plugging the oil holes.

 

What are the benefits of balance shaft removal?

 

I'm having a really hard time deciding on a turbo. I have my low miles old school fp green already. From my research im leaning towards a BB green, but ive seen quite a few people claiming the lag isnt that bad even on the stock block with red or black. I want a fun street car but i dont want to worry about having to upgrade again if i build/stroke the motor.

Plus all three turbos cost the same:

BB FP green
BB FP red
BB FP black

Or the cheap option of sticking with my old school green.

 

Less rotating mass=more power. Plus, if the rear balance shaft belt breaks, it will get tangled up in the timing belt and cause issues. For any higher HP builds should have the rear deleted.

Personally, I run the AMS balance shaft delete kit. This deletes the rear balance shaft and uses the OEM front balance shaft but is shaved down so that you do not have the added weight. I run it because it is a direct input to the oil pump. With the stub shaft eliminator, you dont have the added support on the oil pump gear. Others may have different opinions.

You will probably be happy with the JB Green for now and if you decide to make more power, sell it and get a red, black, bbk, or MAP EF3/4.

 

I've been hearing things about GSC springs breaking lately....not sure how substantial the info is.

 

Dont remove the balance shaft. http://www.jackstransmissions.com/pa...balance-shafts

I dont think GST deals with Evos anymore because they blew too many up and were getting sued.

Go to FFTEC and talk to Mike, he'll set you up. I have 118k miles on the clock and they are the only ones to have touched my car since 30k miles (when i bought it).

If you are on E85, you should only worry about failing visual smog checks. I passed emissions no problem on e85 but I had to swap in my intake box, downpipe, cat, etc.

 

Here is my purchased parts list so far:

ETS 3.5" FMIC
ETS stock route upper and lower pipe kit
ID 1300 cc injectors
GSC no tick lifters
GSC valve seals
Kelford 272 cams
Kelford springs and retainers
ARP head studs
Spoolin Up coil pack
Toxic Fab stock replacement manifold
AEM UEGO
Gates full teflon timing belt kit
Old school FP green
ACT HDG6 Clutch

 

Hey dude, this is my build which was less than $10k and should put me around 400whp on 91:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/al...-ix-build.html

I based if off of this build:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...tephra-v7.html

You can hit your number no problem with a fat turbo, but you will have to deal with the lag if you are running a 2.0L since the spool will suffer. I wanted a turbo with really good transient response for road course/track driving.

My build is also "California" friendly, to keep everything looking stock and low profile.

 

Thanks man...

I had forgotten that I had posted in your build thread way back when. My main area of indecision has been with the turbo. I pretty sure that I'm gonna just stick with the OG Green. My goals aren't too crazy and it should be a fun DD on 91/E85.