question about the 2.5" Buschur downpipe
#1
2.5 Buschur downpipe install Q
I searched, but nothing.
I just received my 2.5" Buschur downpipe and am confused about the flange that bolts to the O2 housing. Since there is no taper and you don't use the factory donut gasket and spring bolts, is there going to be any problem with vibration since there is no flex section and now no spring bolts? It seems like it will be a very rigid connection with no dampening protection.
Another question is the instructions say no gasket is necessary for the O2 flange connection. I find that troubling since it's metal on metal. Will there be exhaust leaks? i don't know if the 3" DP has the same situation, but if it does, has anyone had problems with these two concerns I have made?
Thanks for your replies
I just received my 2.5" Buschur downpipe and am confused about the flange that bolts to the O2 housing. Since there is no taper and you don't use the factory donut gasket and spring bolts, is there going to be any problem with vibration since there is no flex section and now no spring bolts? It seems like it will be a very rigid connection with no dampening protection.
Another question is the instructions say no gasket is necessary for the O2 flange connection. I find that troubling since it's metal on metal. Will there be exhaust leaks? i don't know if the 3" DP has the same situation, but if it does, has anyone had problems with these two concerns I have made?
Thanks for your replies
Last edited by SinCityEvo; Feb 27, 2004 at 07:43 PM.
#4
Re: 2.5 Buschur downpipe install Q
Originally posted by SinCityEvo
I searched, but nothing.
I just received my 2.5" Buschur downpipe and am confused about the flange that bolts to the O2 housing. Since there is no taper and you don't use the factory donut gasket and spring bolts, is there going to be any problem with vibration since there is no flex section and now no spring bolts? It seems like it will be a very rigid connection with no dampening protection.
Another question is the instructions say no gasket is necessary for the O2 flange connection. I find that troubling since it's metal on metal. Will there be exhaust leaks? i don't know if the 3" DP has the same situation, but if it does, has anyone had problems with these two concerns I have made?
Thanks for your replies
I searched, but nothing.
I just received my 2.5" Buschur downpipe and am confused about the flange that bolts to the O2 housing. Since there is no taper and you don't use the factory donut gasket and spring bolts, is there going to be any problem with vibration since there is no flex section and now no spring bolts? It seems like it will be a very rigid connection with no dampening protection.
Another question is the instructions say no gasket is necessary for the O2 flange connection. I find that troubling since it's metal on metal. Will there be exhaust leaks? i don't know if the 3" DP has the same situation, but if it does, has anyone had problems with these two concerns I have made?
Thanks for your replies
But, if Buschur said no gasket nessecary, sure he/they know.....
Enjoy your power gains
Last edited by ChrisS.; Feb 28, 2004 at 11:48 PM.
#5
GottaGo, the pipe itself looks well made. It's not all polished like the HKS, but who sees it anyway, plus saves you over $100.
I figure since there is no "give" at the O2 housing flange because of no spring bolts, the thin pipe will bend/break first if any undue force was put on it. The flange connection would stay intact. as far as engine vibration, the pipe and O2, turbo will act as one piece, but the back end of the downpipe is "cushioned" by the rubber hangers and so is the rest of the exhaust, so it seems like the pipe will have some vibration protection.
The OEM downpipe does not move, although in the event of pressure or movement on the downpipe, the spring bolts will compress and allow the pipe to "unseat" a little and snap back. Unless you rally, it should not happen. I was more concerned with engine vibration and no gasket at the connection.
I figure since there is no "give" at the O2 housing flange because of no spring bolts, the thin pipe will bend/break first if any undue force was put on it. The flange connection would stay intact. as far as engine vibration, the pipe and O2, turbo will act as one piece, but the back end of the downpipe is "cushioned" by the rubber hangers and so is the rest of the exhaust, so it seems like the pipe will have some vibration protection.
The OEM downpipe does not move, although in the event of pressure or movement on the downpipe, the spring bolts will compress and allow the pipe to "unseat" a little and snap back. Unless you rally, it should not happen. I was more concerned with engine vibration and no gasket at the connection.
#7
It will definitely help exhaust flow and spool up and should add HP. The OEM is slightly smaller than 2.5" and has crushed sections and poor bends. The Buschur pipe is pretty straight after the bend coming down from the turbo.
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#8
Originally posted by SinCityEvo
It will definitely help exhaust flow and spool up and should add HP. The OEM is slightly smaller than 2.5" and has crushed sections and poor bends. The Buschur pipe is pretty straight after the bend coming down from the turbo.
It will definitely help exhaust flow and spool up and should add HP. The OEM is slightly smaller than 2.5" and has crushed sections and poor bends. The Buschur pipe is pretty straight after the bend coming down from the turbo.
Take care,
FB
#10
I purchased one (2.5 DP) about 2 weeks ago. i had it ceramic thermal caoted and just installed it 2 days ago. The pipe has no clearance problems what so ever which is one of the reason I decided on this pipe. The second was a monetary reason (too many other projects going on at once. The third, it would compliment my Buschur muffler delete pipe very well.
So, now for the results. At first start up I noticed a fractionaly deeper tone than before with just the muffler delete. Really not that loud for not having muffler in line, I like the sound,just loud enough. Now for the first drive. I noticed that the spool up has moved down the rev range about 200 to 250 rpm sooner. To be honest I have noticed a harder pull in the last 2000 rpm but nothing really earth shattering. About what I had expected for a 2.5" pipe. My best guess would be about a 7- 10 whp increase.
The good news is that at the Vishnu TX tuning day we are all going to know what kind of gains will be possible with this set-up. For the record, my other mods at the time of this test were an Exede with the stage 0 map loaded. I plan on loading up the Stage 0+, which is a map that is designed to be used with a DP and catback. I suspect that the true gains will be realized after specific tuning for my car in 2 weeks. For those who have been inguiring about this set-up(including myself) I plan on posting my results and dyno sheets after my tuning. I do believe that for the money and the level of performance that I want, this set-up will definatly be worth the money and satisfying in the dollar per performance category. It should have more or egual performance to the FQ-330, which is guite a phenominal car.
I am looking forward to finding out.
Stephen
So, now for the results. At first start up I noticed a fractionaly deeper tone than before with just the muffler delete. Really not that loud for not having muffler in line, I like the sound,just loud enough. Now for the first drive. I noticed that the spool up has moved down the rev range about 200 to 250 rpm sooner. To be honest I have noticed a harder pull in the last 2000 rpm but nothing really earth shattering. About what I had expected for a 2.5" pipe. My best guess would be about a 7- 10 whp increase.
The good news is that at the Vishnu TX tuning day we are all going to know what kind of gains will be possible with this set-up. For the record, my other mods at the time of this test were an Exede with the stage 0 map loaded. I plan on loading up the Stage 0+, which is a map that is designed to be used with a DP and catback. I suspect that the true gains will be realized after specific tuning for my car in 2 weeks. For those who have been inguiring about this set-up(including myself) I plan on posting my results and dyno sheets after my tuning. I do believe that for the money and the level of performance that I want, this set-up will definatly be worth the money and satisfying in the dollar per performance category. It should have more or egual performance to the FQ-330, which is guite a phenominal car.
I am looking forward to finding out.
Stephen
#11
Thanks for the input Sin and Rov, sounds like what I'm expecting/hoping for!
Quick question on ceramic coating, which I would like to do. Can you request that it get coated before delivery if you pay in advance, or do you have to receive it, then ship it out or drop it off to get coated? The former would obviously be nice.
I'm gonna try to sneak a dyno tune in later this year as well, heh.
Take care,
FB
Quick question on ceramic coating, which I would like to do. Can you request that it get coated before delivery if you pay in advance, or do you have to receive it, then ship it out or drop it off to get coated? The former would obviously be nice.
I'm gonna try to sneak a dyno tune in later this year as well, heh.
Take care,
FB
Last edited by berkel; Mar 1, 2004 at 03:21 PM.
#12
Hey Berkel,
About the thermal coating. I took delivery of the DP at home and soarced out a local coatings place and was able to get it done with a 3 day turn around and costing $68. A little bit of inconvenience but well worth it I think. I never thought of asking Buschur if they had a place to go and get it done before shipping. My guess is that it would have drove the cost up guite a bit for them to do all the leg work.
Another update on my install, As you have read in my previous thread that I had installed the 2.5DP and had a Stage zero loaded onto the Exede. Well today I loaded up the Stage Zero+ which is tuned for a DP and catback equiped car. What a difference, The car pulls much harder than it did with the other map. I am talking a big difference. One thing I noticed, on my boost gauge peak boost function. I was having a peak boost of 1.47 to 1.50 and tapering on down from there. Right at or a little under 22psi, which is an increase from the other map that was boosting to 21 to 21.3 at its peak. Obviously this is contributing to most of the gains, but I believe it is proving that there may be more gains than some poeple were thinking about the 2.5 compared to the 3" DP. I can also comment that the midrange pull is so much harder now. I am really getting anxious to see what this set-up will do after Shiv gets a hold of it. I am curious as to wether are not after tuning that this set up will yield more or egual gains in tourque as compared to HP gains. We shall soon see in a few more days.
Stephen
About the thermal coating. I took delivery of the DP at home and soarced out a local coatings place and was able to get it done with a 3 day turn around and costing $68. A little bit of inconvenience but well worth it I think. I never thought of asking Buschur if they had a place to go and get it done before shipping. My guess is that it would have drove the cost up guite a bit for them to do all the leg work.
Another update on my install, As you have read in my previous thread that I had installed the 2.5DP and had a Stage zero loaded onto the Exede. Well today I loaded up the Stage Zero+ which is tuned for a DP and catback equiped car. What a difference, The car pulls much harder than it did with the other map. I am talking a big difference. One thing I noticed, on my boost gauge peak boost function. I was having a peak boost of 1.47 to 1.50 and tapering on down from there. Right at or a little under 22psi, which is an increase from the other map that was boosting to 21 to 21.3 at its peak. Obviously this is contributing to most of the gains, but I believe it is proving that there may be more gains than some poeple were thinking about the 2.5 compared to the 3" DP. I can also comment that the midrange pull is so much harder now. I am really getting anxious to see what this set-up will do after Shiv gets a hold of it. I am curious as to wether are not after tuning that this set up will yield more or egual gains in tourque as compared to HP gains. We shall soon see in a few more days.
Stephen
#14
Update: Installed the BR 2.5" pipe. A few things I noticed right away. It's much louder than stock and I already had the HKS catback on it. Adding the downpipe made it louder, especially at WOT.
Another thing I noticed is loss of low end torque. I immediately felt it and this is only a 2.5" pipe! I can't imagine the 3". It's kinda annoying in stop and go traffic.
It added HP and you can feel it once you spool up. It's bad ***.
One other thing is it did increase oil temp. I have a guage and it was reading a couple ticks higher than the stocker ever did since I bought the car. I put a stick-on heat shield on the oil pan, but I don't think it helped much. Now, this was a 60 degree day. I can't imagine 100 plus all summer here in Vegas. I'm very worried.
The pipe was not coated or heat wrapped. I don't know how much that helps.
One other point, and I verified my concern, the Buschur pipe eliminates the "donut" gasket and stock spring bolts. I do not like the set up. It leaves no failsafe against the pipe cracking. The pipe has no way of dissipating the vibration and over time, may crack at the flange. I don't know, but i prefer the stock gasket and spring bolts. I know HKS lets you keep the stock parts. In fact, Buschur says no gasket needed at all. Never heard of a exhaust connection not using some type of gasket. I guess you can put a flat 2.5" gasket if you want.
Anyway, that's my review of the Buschur 2.5" pipe.
Another thing I noticed is loss of low end torque. I immediately felt it and this is only a 2.5" pipe! I can't imagine the 3". It's kinda annoying in stop and go traffic.
It added HP and you can feel it once you spool up. It's bad ***.
One other thing is it did increase oil temp. I have a guage and it was reading a couple ticks higher than the stocker ever did since I bought the car. I put a stick-on heat shield on the oil pan, but I don't think it helped much. Now, this was a 60 degree day. I can't imagine 100 plus all summer here in Vegas. I'm very worried.
The pipe was not coated or heat wrapped. I don't know how much that helps.
One other point, and I verified my concern, the Buschur pipe eliminates the "donut" gasket and stock spring bolts. I do not like the set up. It leaves no failsafe against the pipe cracking. The pipe has no way of dissipating the vibration and over time, may crack at the flange. I don't know, but i prefer the stock gasket and spring bolts. I know HKS lets you keep the stock parts. In fact, Buschur says no gasket needed at all. Never heard of a exhaust connection not using some type of gasket. I guess you can put a flat 2.5" gasket if you want.
Anyway, that's my review of the Buschur 2.5" pipe.